Ecu problem solved - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 02-18-2017
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Arrow Ecu problem solved

Hi everyone, recently i had an issue. When attempting a luggage blind bypass i grounded the Wrong pin, on the Wrong ecu, and ended up with a fried ecu, a car that only moved in first or reverse, and had all the brake /esp lights on...
However I got one today off fleabay, and fitted it, and instantly all came back on line when i reconnected the battery and started her up
Idid find the correct pin (54) and tried that but still no roof retraction. The symptoms are whirring, and clicking in the switch forward position, but only windows down (front), small windows, roof and trunk no movement.The red lamp flashes slowly.
I manually unlocked the roof, and lifted it slightly, open say 4 inches or so, and stopped as the "C" pillars were just touching the unmoved trunk lid.
My biggest problem, seems to be the low level of fluid in the pump, but i can't get into the trunk to work in there as my lid button to lock connecting rod has fallen off. The UK R170 has no rear speaker holes, and i could do with any ideas on how to open the trunk ???
Thanks in advance for any help,
Now it drives great, it needs to get it's top down
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#2 Old 02-18-2017
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Glad you got the ECU going. Your situation is bleak - no ability to open the lid hydraulically or with the key. The conventional wisdom is to remove the license plate and drill a large hole so you can reach in and unlatch by hand.
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#3 Old 02-18-2017
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Something a little crazy... maybe you can disconnect one of the hydraulic lines on the roof latch, since you can reach those, and pour fluid down the line. I don't know if fluid will actually flow down, but it's just a thought and less harmful than drilling a hole in the trunk . Or maybe the trunk closure latch signals are not working either? Try grounding pins 52 & 37 as well.
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#4 Old 02-19-2017
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Just a thought - if you have a helper pull the switch back while you stand behind the car, can you tip the lid back by pulling it with your hand?
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#5 Old 02-20-2017
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Thanks for te advice guys, looks like i may try getting the wife to pull the switch, and try and tilt the lid, Or if all else fails get my drill out..
Since part opening the roof, the red lamp is flashing quickly (it was slow before) so i may try bypassing the luggage blind again, now i know the correct wire.
I will post an update soon.
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#6 Old 02-20-2017
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If the pump has absolutely no hydraulic action you may not be able to move the lid by hand. The first thing those two cylinders do is release the wheel-well latches, and if those don't release, you'll never make any progress.

I've never had to do it, but if you do resort to drilling, try to confine the scars to the area behind the license plate so that re-painting is not necessary. You'll only get one chance to drill, so make sure you get it right.
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#7 Old 02-20-2017
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Just curious - do you have a test lamp, and can you tell us the state of all your switches (grounded vs. not grounded):

S69/1 "roof closed" switch (in top of right A pillar): pin 32 GNBK;
S69/2 & S69/3 "roof locked" (right & left rotary tumbler are in series) pin 30 GNGY;
S69/7 & S69/8 "lid down" (Left & right) are in series: pin 37 BUYE;
S69/9 "lid open" (right rear crner): pin 52 BUYE;
S69/10 "luggage cover extended": pin 54 GYVT;
S69/11 "roof open" (starboard near quarter window): pin 33 GYPK;
S69/12 "trunk closed" lid/rotary tumbler/trunk lamp switch (insures nobody is putting groceries in the trunk) pin 69 BUGY;
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#8 Old 02-20-2017
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Thanks efair, haven't tested any of those connectors (yet) Yes i do have a test lamp, and a multimeter, so i will investigate as soon as i have time.
It does seem odd that the switch flashed slowly at first, but after partially opening the roof manually, it now flashes quickly, if only i could open the damn trunk..
It may be just the luggage cover, i ain't no quitter, so will update you soon, thanks for all the help .
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#9 Old 02-20-2017
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That is actually a good sign - the slow flash means "computer confused", the fast means "switch inhibiting motion". Find which of the pins are grounded, and which are not, and post back here.
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#10 Old 02-21-2017
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Just curious - do you have a test lamp, and can you tell us the state of all your switches (grounded vs. not grounded):

S69/1 "roof closed" switch (in top of right A pillar): pin 32 GNBK;
S69/2 & S69/3 "roof locked" (right & left rotary tumbler are in series) pin 30 GNGY;
S69/7 & S69/8 "lid down" (Left & right) are in series: pin 37 BUYE;
S69/9 "lid open" (right rear crner): pin 52 BUYE;
S69/10 "luggage cover extended": pin 54 GYVT;
S69/11 "roof open" (starboard near quarter window): pin 33 GYPK;
S69/12 "trunk closed" lid/rotary tumbler/trunk lamp switch (insures nobody is putting groceries in the trunk) pin 69 BUGY;
Hi Efair (or anyone else!), sorry if this is a stupid question, but to test if something is grounded, I clip one end of the tester to an exposed bit of metal, and touch the other end to the pin? If it's grounded it'll light up as it's making a circuit, if it doesn't, it isn't?

Thanks,

Derek
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#11 Old 02-21-2017
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If you're using an automotive test lamp, clamp it to battery +, then probe the pin. If the test lamp illuminates, the pin is grounded; if it doesn't illuminate, the pin is not grounded.

If you're using an ohmmeter, connect one lead to battery -, the other lead to the pin. If the reading is zero, or near zero, the pin is grounded; if the reading is infinite, the pin is not grounded.
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#12 Old 02-28-2017
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Thumbs up Roof fixed

Hi everyone, thanks for all your advise on my roof problem, it seems that after manually releasing the roof and part folding the top, I must have somehow freed a sticking switch, as when the roof button began flashing quickly, I bypassed the correct pin (54) and the roof opened and I put the luggage blind in place and it now opens every time, turns out the fluid level is above the minimum, so that is not really an issue for now.
I do still have a problem with the trunk lock however, I refitted the operating rod, lubricated the lock barrel which now turns freely both ways, and the button the key fits in pushes in easily, but does not unlock the trunk
Is it possible to remove the trunk lock while the lid is open ready to take the roof ? I can get an assistant to hold the lid, I just wondered if it has an electrical mode to prevent the lock releasing as a safety measure when it is positioned to take the roof, and if so, is there another clever bypass for this feature ? as I am fairly sure the lock mechanism needs attention or replacement.
Many thanks for your advice.
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#13 Old 02-28-2017
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That latch is mechanical, there is no electrical inhibitor AFAIK. So if I'm understanding, now your roof is working fully, but you can't open the trunk i.e. to put groceries in? If that's the case, then yes - start opening or closing the roof, wait for the boot lid to be fully raise, then let go of the switch; reach in and operate the latch manually; raise the rear of the lid to full height. This is called "assembly position", you probably want to use a broom or something to prop it up. And don't do it when it's windy.

The lid will usually stay in the assembly position this indefinitely, even with the key off. Make sure, though, the roof itself has zero potential energy, else after a few minutes the system will depressurize and gravity will result in some abrupt motion. In other words, when you stop, make sure the roof panel is fully against the windshield or fully laying in the boot.
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