Manual roof close and voltage question - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 02-05-2017
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Manual roof close and voltage question

Hi all, my roof has stuck open, i've read the other threads but have a couple of questions.

If I manually close the roof, what do I do with the hydraulic screw? Do I just screw it back in? Does the system repressurise itself?

What voltage does it actually need to open and close the roof? I've got a plug in voltage meter and it's kicking out 13.8 volts with the engine running?

Cheers

Dez
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#2 Old 02-05-2017
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Hi Dez

That's not good news

Although this might not answer your question directly, I'm hoping the following link might at least be a little helpful for you:
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...leapyfish.html

I can't offer any advice from personal experience on this issue for you, other than share links I've filed away to share with others. I hope you get the issue resolved quickly...

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#3 Old 02-05-2017
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Just re-tighten the relief screw.
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#4 Old 02-08-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbgrn View Post
Hi Dez

That's not good news

Although this might not answer your question directly, I'm hoping the following link might at least be a little helpful for you:
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...leapyfish.html

I can't offer any advice from personal experience on this issue for you, other than share links I've filed away to share with others. I hope you get the issue resolved quickly...
No worries, thanks Dave. I tried a few things yesterday, turning off some of the Smarttop settings, charging the battery, disconnecting the battery for half an hour. I've dropped a message through to Sean to see if he's free sometime to stick it on his STAR which will hopefully show what the nature of the problem is.

Cheers,

Dez
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#5 Old 02-08-2017
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Just re-tighten the relief screw.
Thanks efair, sorry if this sounds a bit odd, but should it be gently tight, or really tight?

When I tried to manually close my roof, I loosened the relief screw then tried to manually release the boot with the cable pulls but it didn't move, do you have to pull them really hard? Just asking as I don't want to break them!

I tried a battery reset last night, also turning off the Smarttop, both with no success

Thanks,

Dez
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#6 Old 02-08-2017
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you do have to give the cables a good stout pull. you are pulling the steel cables with loops in the end, right?

for the relief screw, just snug it up with the allen key - no need to overdo it.
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#7 Old 02-09-2017
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
you do have to give the cables a good stout pull. you are pulling the steel cables with loops in the end, right?

for the relief screw, just snug it up with the allen key - no need to overdo it.
Thanks Efair, yep, pulling on the loops, just wanted to check before I yanked on them too hard in case they were a little delicate!

I'm going to give it another try tonight, i'll turn the smarttop off completely, see if that helps.

I've read a few posts about people with boot (trunk) issues causing roof problems, my boot doesn't seem to lock so I don't know if that's having any kind of impact on the roof?

I'm going to give it another try tonight, found a set of 'roof reboot' instructions on another post, if that doesn't work i'll turn the smarttop off completely, do a battery reset and top the battery up to the max and see if any of that works!

These are the roof reboot instructions:

Reset vario-roof :

• Switch off the engine
• Get out and shut the door and Lock
• Wait Min. 30sec
• unlock the car, get in and close door
• put the Key in the ignitionlock ( not switch )
• The roof switch with the left hand in the closing position
press and hold.
• Switch on the ignition with the right hand and the engine
start .
• Close the roof .
• When no result :
• Disconnect the battery terminals . ( First minus than plus)
• Min. 30 minutes wait.
• Connect the battery terminals . ( first plus or minus)
• Repeat the previous steps .

Last edited by devilman9050; 02-09-2017 at 02:43 AM. Reason: spelling mistake!
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#8 Old 02-13-2017
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So far...

New battery (that I got about 3 weeks ago) replaced with one with higher amps and CCA
Fiddled around with the boot lock a bit, so now it's locking (which is a good thing, but didn't fix the roof issue!)
Did a few battery resets and roof resets (see previous post) none of which worked
Roof manually closed
Hydraulic relief screw retightened

I must admit I forgot to check all the fuses, so it could be something simple, so that's the next step.
I've spoken to one of the other forum members so hopefully sometime this week i should get in on STAR to see if I can tell what's up (if it's not a fuse).

With the roof being manually closed, once the problem is fixed will it automatically reset itself? E.g. once the problem is identified and fixes, do I just open the roof with the button and it all goes back to normal? Is there anything else i would need to do?

Sorry for the questions, i've tried looking around on SLKworld and the other Merc forums but noone seems to say what happens after a manual close to get things back to normal

Thanks

Derek
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#9 Old 02-13-2017
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if all switches are working and youve fully closed the roof, then yes, it should resume normal operation, no special procedure required.
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#10 Old 02-13-2017
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Is it a Smarttop or another version?

Was the smarttop installed and working ok a while before your problems?

After checking all the fuses and the smarttop wiring, if that doesn't fix it, I know it's not a two minute job in the r170, but I'd be inclined to remove the smarttop and return the setup to original to check if the smarttop is the culprit....


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#11 Old 02-14-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curro101 View Post
1.Is it a Smarttop or another version?

2.Was the smarttop installed and working ok a while before your problems?

3.After checking all the fuses and the smarttop wiring, if that doesn't fix it, I know it's not a two minute job in the r170, but I'd be inclined to remove the smarttop and return the setup to original to check if the smarttop is the culprit....
Hi, thanks for your questions!

1. Yep, Smarttop STLFMZ1 version for the SLK r170.
2. well, i installed it on the Saturday, and it first stopped working on the sunday, so to be honest, it is definitely possible it's the Smarttop. Over Christmas my SLK was packed away under it's cover and in Jan the battery was dead. I put it on charge for a few hours and when I started it up, the roof was working again. Well, it worked for a little bit, then stopped working again (with the roof open this time)
3.Yep, I think fuses, check hydraulic fluid, disable the smarttop, hopefully one of those will work, if not next step is STAR diagnostics.

Thanks,

Dez
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#12 Old 02-14-2017
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After rechecking the wiring connections for it a couple of times, I think reverting to the original installation without the smarttop might be the best place to start if there's no obvious fuse problem..


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#13 Old 02-15-2017
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Checked the fuses (under the bonnet) and the hydraulic fluid yesterday, fuses all appear ok. The Hydraulic fluid is on the minimum mark so perhaps needs topping up a little, but there's still plenty of fluid in there.

Tonight will be disabling the Smarttop to see if that cures it....
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#14 Old 02-17-2017
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Didn't have time to disable the Smarttop completely on Wednesday (it was raining), but last night Sean very kindly connected my car up to his STAR.

Looks like there's a problem with the boot switches, had fault messages for 69/7, 69/8 and 69/9. so tonight's mission will be to take the boot trim off to get at the switches!

Dez
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#15 Old 02-17-2017
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Just adding this here for future reference (in case anyone is searching the forum for advice on boot trim removal to access the switches)

Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 Trunk Panel Removal | 1998-2004 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
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#16 Old 02-17-2017
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What was STAR's complaint about those switches, and what was the position of the lid when you ran the test?
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#17 Old 02-17-2017
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The Roof was in the closed position, and the info from STAR is attached (actually, as it's a R170 it connects via HHT for some of the modules... first time I've been hooked up to one)
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#18 Old 02-18-2017
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The Roof was in the closed position, and the info from STAR is attached (actually, as it's a R170 it connects via HHT for some of the modules... first time I've been hooked up to one)
Sean is right that the boot was closed, however, i've just had a thought....

As I'd done a manual close, I think the boot doesn't lock back into place or something? I mean, it was closed but not locked into place, but was it closed enough to trigger the 69/7, 8 and 9 switches??
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#19 Old 02-18-2017
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it is entirely possible that 69/7 and 69/8 would be "operated" with the roof closed. However, 69/9 should not be. (I assume "operated" means "closed"...)

60/9 is attached to the steel ski-slope on the RHS, I would disconnect it as a test; if things start moving afterwards then replace it. Have you removed your panelling yet?
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#20 Old 02-18-2017
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Manually apply ground to pins 52 and 37. They supply a ground signal to module to let it know trunk/boot is closed. As soon as it begins movement remove the ground you added and now you know it is either the switches or the grounding bolts they are connected to in the trunk. If the roof doesn't work with the ground wires (simulating working switches) then, you may have other issues.
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