Brake Light Problem - How to remove the R170 Brake Light - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 01-29-2017
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Unhappy Brake Light Problem - How to remove the R170 Brake Light

I need to have a look at this problem on my SLK320 / R170 / 2002 model.
My RHS brake light has failed and I have the warning indicator on the dash.

I would like to try to rectify this, but cant see how to remove the light assembly to correct the issues. Can somebody direct me to the removal method?

Thanks.
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#2 Old 01-30-2017
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Originally Posted by elkorn44 View Post
I need to have a look at this problem on my SLK320 / R170 / 2002 model.
My RHS brake light has failed and I have the warning indicator on the dash.

I would like to try to rectify this, but cant see how to remove the light assembly to correct the issues. Can somebody direct me to the removal method?

Thanks.
If you're looking for a 'how to' video, have a peek here

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#3 Old 01-30-2017
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You might just need to replace the light. It's not necessary to remove the assembly to do this. You can access the bulb from the back of the assembly
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#4 Old 01-30-2017
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I didn't even get that wiggy

I just removed the inspection panel for the hydraulic roof pump ( behind that youtube clip owner's cd changer, at the bottom of shot, with a scoop handle visible) and went onward and upward from there.
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#5 Old 01-30-2017
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Thanks for that. I have done the same thing, after locating the third nut at the top of the light by removing the upper trim.
I found where the nut was and then was able to reach it from below.
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#6 Old 01-30-2017
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I have now removed the brake light, with some finger contortions to reach the nuts, and have found the following:
1. The lamp holder was "welded" into place and could not be moved. I used a pair of multigrips and some brute force to loosen and move it.
2. The plastic had overheated (see burn spot on the picture below). I had to file the distorted plastic to allow the holder to be re-inserted.
3. The lamp was also blown.

In addition to actions above, I cleaned the burned rail, and also built the contacts up using solder. (See pictures below).
I tested the electrical connections using a multimeter, inserted a new bulb and re-attached the assembly to the vehicle (again with some awkwardness).
The warning light is off, and the brake light is working.
Time will tell how long this repair will last. If this does fail again, my "plan B" is to solder a wire to the faulty contact and make the electrical connection permanent.

Time taken approx 1.5 hours, as I had difficulties removing the welded on bulb holder, and I did not want to break the fitting.
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#7 Old 01-30-2017
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Thanks to all for help. The car really is just a standard vehicle, and quite easy to work on, provided you do some homework first. This forum is excellent value. Who knows what this may have cost me if I had taken it to a repairer to fix!
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#8 Old 01-31-2017
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Originally Posted by elkorn44 View Post
Thanks to all for help. The car really is just a standard vehicle, and quite easy to work on, provided you do some homework first. This forum is excellent value. Who knows what this may have cost me if I had taken it to a repairer to fix!
The R170 was subject to a recall for it's faulty rear cluster, for exactly the same reasons your's is showing.


https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ser...ht-recall.html

MB was aware of the issue and in the US it paid for replacements, but only in the US I believe
The rest of us either pay for the improved clusters ourselves, or do what you've done.

Thanks for the write-up and pics
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#9 Old 06-06-2017
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Thumbs down

Always wondered what the grips were for in this OEM tool kit, now I know.

That really is a terribly dang nab it fiddly fitting to get out and then back in again.

Thank you posters, I was almost convinced I had to get an entirely new (second hand) light for a day or so, was in the middle of writing an email going looking for a price on one then I thought...'I should double check'...

Same thing here, plastic under the connection melted - current fix is to simply bend the connection back up a bit (2-4 millimeters) safely away from the plastic probably wont last but who knows, might be lucky.

Not happy with Mercedes today especially as I bumped my head on the the boot latch on the way out of there after a frustrating 15 minutes.
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