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#1 Old 01-28-2017
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2001 SLK320 - Started with one problem, now seemingly have many...

Hey, I am a new member. I will do an introduction soon but want to post for support first.

I bought my 2001 SLK320 with 108,000 KM on Wednesday, January 25. I've been driving it and loving it, but it now has 4 fault codes (!!!)

I bought the car with code P0120 (throttle position sensor), and have plans to replace the accelerator soon. The symptoms are that I put my foot on the gas, nothing happens for a couple seconds, then the car takes off but will not pass 3000 RPM. I reset it and it's been sometimes working and sometimes not. I believe the pedal needs replacing. Am I on the right track?

Today, the car has developed 3 more codes. They don't concern me too much, if I'm honest. I'm a very mechanically inclined person and bought this car as a project. What I am thinking now though, is that these new codes might just be because the car was sitting and now I am driving it.

So the code I knowlingly bought the car with was P0120: Throttle Position Sensor.

The three new codes are: P0135: o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 1

P0150: o2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction bank 2 sensor 1

and a pending code P0410: Secondary Air injection system malfunction

Should I replace the throttle before looking into these other codes? Should I look into these other codes before replacing the throttle? I have the money to pay for all these things, but I don't need to be a part thrower. Is it possible the other codes are related to the original P0120 Code?

Another question: I had some water leaking in the passenger floor, so I was checking my drains and they are all fine. However, I noticed that under the cowl, the space where air enters the cabin has no cover or anything! Is it supposed to be that way? That is how the water is getting in, so maybe the cowl just needs a new rubber seal?

Thanks everyone.
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#2 Old 01-28-2017
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There is a recent write up about the throttle position sensor here:

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...on-sensor.html

I had a P0410 code a couple of years ago. It was an intermittent code with increasing frequency over a year or two (every few months to once a week). My problem turned out to be poor soldering joints in the K40 relay. There is a sticky for this.

There are many things that cause a P0410. This fault came up just as I took delivery of my car (second hand). The guy who sold it to me gave me a couple of hundred dollars off the agreed price and said he'd taken it to a reputable indy who told him it was faulty oxygen sensors. It wasn't: it was the K40 relay. K40 treatment is easy and free. If that doesn't fix the problem do a search (on here and Benzworld.com). There is heaps of info on this problem (but don't let it scare you).

Just my experience.

Good luck with it
Tony
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#3 Old 01-28-2017
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PS, I don't think the throttle sensor code and the P0410 are related.

There's also lots of info on here about wet carpets. I can;t remember the cause because it hasn't happened to me, but do a search.

See here for good search tips:

https://www.slkworld.com/new-members-...searching.html
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#4 Old 01-28-2017
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I had exactly the same symptoms as you recently with the throttle but the code was P0122, probably related to P0120. New throttle pedal was fitted and all OK.

Don't know about your other codes though, good luck with those.
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#5 Old 01-28-2017
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#6 Old 01-28-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdude273 View Post
I bought the car with code P0120 (throttle position sensor), and have plans to replace the accelerator soon. The symptoms are that I put my foot on the gas, nothing happens for a couple seconds, then the car takes off but will not pass 3000 RPM. I reset it and it's been sometimes working and sometimes not. I believe the pedal needs replacing. Am I on the right track?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Australian View Post
There is a recent write up about the throttle position sensor here:

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...on-sensor.html
Hi @bdude273. Have a quick read of my post at least to understand how it all works. From what you say you are on the right track. There are two sensors in the throttle and if the main one fails then the second one gets read, but the throttle is limited by the car which may account for you only getting 3,000 rpm. Try unplugging, cleaning and re-plugging the existing throttle and see if it makes a difference. If you do need a replacement make sure you look for the right part number as the manual pedal does not have the kickdown switch on it so won't work if your car is an automatic. Also, watch the replacement prices. Some breakers are greedy. I found replacements from £30 to over £200 when I looked. New in UK they're about £125.

Good luck sorting this. And while you're tinkering, take a look at the thread @Australian mentioned about the K40. If you're good with a soldering iron and your iron is powerful enough the K40 repair takes around 30-45 mins, so well worth checking out.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdude273 View Post
I bought the car with code P0120 (throttle position sensor), and have plans to replace the accelerator soon. The symptoms are that I put my foot on the gas, nothing happens for a couple seconds, then the car takes off but will not pass 3000 RPM. I reset it and it's been sometimes working and sometimes not. I believe the pedal needs replacing. Am I on the right track?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Australian View Post
There is a recent write up about the throttle position sensor here:

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...on-sensor.html
Hi @bdude273. Have a quick read of my post at least to understand how it all works. From what you say you are on the right track. There are two sensors in the throttle and if the main one fails then the second one gets read, but the throttle is limited by the car which may account for you only getting 3,000 rpm. Try unplugging, cleaning and re-plugging the existing throttle and see if it makes a difference. If you do need a replacement make sure you look for the right part number as the manual pedal does not have the kickdown switch on it so won't work if your car is an automatic. Also, watch the replacement prices. Some breakers are greedy. I found replacements from £30 to over £200 when I looked. New in UK they're about £125.

Good luck sorting this. And while you're tinkering, take a look at the thread @Australian mentioned about the K40. If you're good with a soldering iron and your iron is powerful enough the K40 repair takes around 30-45 mins, so well worth checking out.
HI Savcom, this is the throttle I ordered, but because they're still processing I think tomorrow I'll follow your guide and clean up all the connections. I have a feeling it is connector related because it works sometimes. Is this for an automatic? http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist..../pagenum1/tabs

Thank you. I will do the K40 DIY soon.
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#8 Old 01-31-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Hi @bdude273. Have a quick read of my post at least to understand how it all works. From what you say you are on the right track. There are two sensors in the throttle and if the main one fails then the second one gets read, but the throttle is limited by the car which may account for you only getting 3,000 rpm. Try unplugging, cleaning and re-plugging the existing throttle and see if it makes a difference. If you do need a replacement make sure you look for the right part number as the manual pedal does not have the kickdown switch on it so won't work if your car is an automatic. Also, watch the replacement prices. Some breakers are greedy. I found replacements from £30 to over £200 when I looked. New in UK they're about £125.

Good luck sorting this. And while you're tinkering, take a look at the thread @Australian mentioned about the K40. If you're good with a soldering iron and your iron is powerful enough the K40 repair takes around 30-45 mins, so well worth checking out.
My son, who is the greatest mechanic in the world, repaired my R170 (automatic) with the P0120 code with a used pedal off a stick shift car by replacing the kick down switch from the original pedal. So, it can be done. No flashing needed.
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#9 Old 01-31-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryD View Post
My son, who is the greatest mechanic in the world, repaired my R170 (automatic) with the P0120 code with a used pedal off a stick shift car by replacing the kick down switch from the original pedal. So, it can be done. No flashing needed.
Welcome to SLKWorld.com: The #1 Mercedes-Benz SLK Forum from Florida!

First please update your vehicle (year?: 1996-2017, model?: 32, 200, 230, 250, 280, 300,320,350,55) in your profile as it helps the members answer your questions which usually are based on that information if you haven’t. This takes about 30 seconds to do.
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#10 Old 02-01-2017
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Originally Posted by GaryD View Post
My son, who is the greatest mechanic in the world, repaired my R170 (automatic) with the P0120 code with a used pedal off a stick shift car by replacing the kick down switch from the original pedal. So, it can be done. No flashing needed.
Thanks for that Gary. Welcome to the forum.

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#11 Old 02-01-2017
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Originally Posted by bdude273 View Post
HI Savcom, this is the throttle I ordered, but because they're still processing I think tomorrow I'll follow your guide and clean up all the connections. I have a feeling it is connector related because it works sometimes. Is this for an automatic? AutoPartsWAY.ca Canada 2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK320 Accelerator Pedal in Canada

Thank you. I will do the K40 DIY soon.
At the price of that part I'd definitely do the connectors first! When I asked for a new part from Mercedes I was only quoted £125 ($208 CAN) Clean the contacts with a contact cleaner and/or contact grease and a wooden scraper (toothpick/coffee stirrer) and re-assemble and see if that has done the trick.

It does looks as if the kick-down switch is fitted to that pedal but if not, you should be able to transfer the button from your old pedal if Gary is correct.

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#12 Old 02-01-2017
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Your codes all seem unrelated except that the ECU controls them all.

There is no cover over the cabin air intake, and yes the rubber gasket will leak rain into the cabin when perished. Also, the foam strip in that area is prone to leakage. I suggest you free the cowl from the windshield and seal it up good if you suspect rain is coming in.
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