Pse problem perhaps - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 04-02-2013
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Pse problem perhaps

Dome light stays on.
Cubby/glove box light does not come on.
Dash door lock switch does not lock doors
Here's an odd bit ..... With the smarttop in circuit the roof will not lower. With the bypass connector connected top works fine!

Tested glove box light bulb - ok
Central locking button appears to lock boot.
Door microswitches tested, workin, can hear a relay in dash pulling in when both doors closed.
Boot lock microswitches investigated and tested ok.
Pulled and teset ever fuse in the car!

Remote works to lock/unlock car.

Smarttop lid removed and led's tested against manual. All appear to indicate correctly. 'Interior light' indicator permanetly lit. Roof does not lower via remote but sequence starts. Roof raise appears to work ( pump runs )



I've tried most things now. Fortunately i have my donor old car in the drive so I may swap out the pse uniits tomorrow to try it out.
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#2 Old 04-02-2013
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PSE bug ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
Dome light stays on.
Cubby/glove box light does not come on.
Dash door lock switch does not lock doors
Here's an odd bit ..... With the smarttop in circuit the roof will not lower. With the bypass connector connected top works fine!

Tested glove box light bulb - ok
Central locking button appears to lock boot.
Door microswitches tested, workin, can hear a relay in dash pulling in when both doors closed.
Boot lock microswitches investigated and tested ok.
Pulled and teset ever fuse in the car!

Remote works to lock/unlock car.

Smarttop lid removed and led's tested against manual. All appear to indicate correctly. 'Interior light' indicator permanetly lit. Roof does not lower via remote but sequence starts. Roof raise appears to work ( pump runs )



I've tried most things now. Fortunately i have my donor old car in the drive so I may swap out the pse uniits tomorrow to try it out.
Hi,

With all the recent snow in the UK it might be an idea to remove your boot liner and peer into the bottom of the boot where the skinny spare lives, if that is wet then you may just have the dreaded soaked PSE bug. This is what happened to mine, the results were unpredictable but included the interior light not working, random locking failures, alarm behaving erratically etc. Just feel the foam carrier around the PSE, if that is wet then you may be in trouble. I found lots of helpful stuff on this forum about various fixes and I'd be more than happy to share my experiences and fix with you if it turns out to be this.

All the best

John
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#3 Old 04-02-2013
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Car has been in a warehouse for 6 months so pretty dry. I have had the boot liner out but tomorrow I will swap out Pse units and see what happens!
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#4 Old 04-03-2013
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Hmm. Stripped out PSE from new car, attacked PSE from old car ---- a complete mess. corroded contacts all over. Old one works in the old car but I'm not going to risk it in the new one!

Opened up the new PSE and examined. Looks brand new and no apparent dry joints. May just attack it with a soldering iron and some protective laquer just while I have it all out.

>> Update

After all the investigation on the PSE unit I'm starting to look elsewhere. According to this info the dome light and roof is controlled by unit N10-3 and my problem looks more likely to be nearer to that box so that will be my next avenue.

The odd flashing of the dome light and partial operation of the easyroof unit and other things are starting to smell of an earth fault somewhere!

>> Update

Cigarette lighter and glovebox light now working! Turns out fuse F1-31 was popped. Visually I inspected it perhaps 5 times and thought it was OK. Then I tested it with a meter and it was actually open circuit!

Now investigating the WIS documents to try to find the door switches and the central locking switch to fault find those two circuits. ( Dome light on and unlock but no lock function )

>> Update
Finally got an old version of the WIS data up and running on my PC .....
Door switches are on the wiring diagram for Central Locking.
Interesting discovery ..... The seat relay ( known for its dodgy soldering ) is involved in the whole PSE thing so no wonder there are weird faults reported sometimes.

>> Update

Partial working of the roof traced back to the Easyroof unit. The ABS and ESP lines were wired incorrectly. The chirp sounder was wired backwards so fixed that too. So now the easyroof is working fine.

The onlt problem left is the interior light staying on! Everything else works great. The boot latch switch works great and the signals get to the right places, the door switches appear to be working. The alarm works. Just that blasted light!

The light is driven from unit N10-3 and the door switches go to the PSE. so the PSE must be signalling the state of the doors to N10 by CAN bus.

If I disconnect and reconnect the PSE the interior light goes out once then it reverts to staying permanently on!!!!!

Last edited by nimbusgb; 04-06-2013 at 12:55 PM.
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#5 Old 04-23-2013
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Update.

Hood/bonnet switch tested, that works ok.

If I disconnect the white multipin connector from the PSE the interior dome light works with the central locking remote and the door switch!

That brings it down to one connector with about 6 wires on it. Anyone have a wiring diagram for that white connector on the PSE to hand?

I have had my pse out and I have traced out the circuitry ( input senses ) and i reckon if i can work out which line/s causing the problem I can replace the relative chip on the board! Worth a try!
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#6 Old 04-23-2013
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Well I've got my interior light working! Disconnecting a couple of the wires into the pse has 'fixed' it.

Now I need to work out what the real problem is!

Seems i can have either a working interior light OR a working roof.

Odd

Last edited by nimbusgb; 04-24-2013 at 10:35 AM.
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#7 Old 05-13-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
>> Update

Cigarette lighter and glovebox light now working! Turns out fuse F1-31 was popped. Visually I inspected it perhaps 5 times and thought it was OK. Then I tested it with a meter and it was actually open circuit!
This hint is worth all the other put together; when checking fuses, actually check continuity.

But lots of good work going on here; congrats!
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#8 Old 05-13-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
Hood/bonnet switch tested, that works ok.
I've looked for this switch a couple of times; since there is an alarm, I would expect there to be an alarm switch on the bonnet.
But I've not managed to find it.
Can you please point it out to me (or where it should be) so I can restore the function that should be there?
Thanks,
Anon

Edit; reading documentation, I suspect it should be in the bonnet latch.
However, I can have the bonnet open without the alarm going off.
So I shall have to strip out this switch, and get it going again. pretty exposed; I doubt it will be an easy task!
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#9 Old 06-01-2013
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Sorry been away on holiday.

The bonnet switch is indeed buried within the latch assembly. If you look into the top of the catch you can just see the striker for the microswitch.

On the original thread.....

I have solved my interior light, central locking switch problem.....

Quite simple really, I chickened out and replaced the PSE!

The good news however is that last night an advert for a similar model 320 popped up on eBay, I phoned straight away and was first in line for the PSE. Drove up this morning 90 miles each way and got the unit for 125! Latest revision, same part number as mine. Light traffic on the motorway, sun shining so it was a blast!

Got 3 coil packs, plug leads and the mass airflow sensor for another 50!

I have got a set of connectors for the PSE so that I can build a test rig to test/repair my old unit which is in immaculate condition with no water damage but refuses to control the interior light!
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#10 Old 06-01-2013
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You are a patient man nimbusgb I would never be able to have gone thru all you have fair play to you.

Dave
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#11 Old 06-01-2013
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You are a patient man nimbusgb I would never be able to have gone thru all you have fair play to you.

Dave
Thanks, a bit of patience translates into beer tokens! Merc wanted about 500 for the PSE so the 300 saved is a couple of weekends gliding or a return ticket to Greece to my boat! Worth a bit of tinkering for that!

Of course the wife has extracted a penalty for working on the car, I've just been tiling the kitchen floor!

No rest for the wicked!

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#12 Old 06-03-2013
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Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
Thanks, a bit of patience translates into beer tokens! Merc wanted about 500 for the PSE so the 300 saved is a couple of weekends gliding or a return ticket to Greece to my boat! Worth a bit of tinkering for that!

Of course the wife has extracted a penalty for working on the car, I've just been tiling the kitchen floor!

No rest for the wicked!

As others have said..well done.

I had my PSE out and stripped down and spent ages with a multi-meter trying to get somewhere but without a circuit diagram of the unit I had to give up. Remember that almost certainly the unit uses a number of ASCIs (application specific integrated circuits) that, without their detailed spec and a 'scope are impossible to diagnose. I was hoping that it might have been something more agricultural such as a broken track or corroded pin etc. but no such luck.

Like you I ended up buying a used one for a similar price to yours and it has been fine since. I have however, as a precaution extended both the wirning harness and the air pipes such that the PSE is now 'upside down' which is the way they are fitted in later models.

I also cleaned out the side drain and also found that the internal boot ventilator panel had come adrift which may have led to rain/road splash ingress.

As I write it's over 20 degrees and sunny....SLK weather oh joy :-)
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