ABS/BAS/ESP lights on dash - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 01-21-2017
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ABS/BAS/ESP lights on dash

Hi again everyone,

Spent a day trying to fix this problem with no luck!

Basically all was well and I decided to clean car this morning. Jetwashed the wheel arches as normal and then when started car the abs lights and bas/esp lights were on. Thinking I had loosened an abs lead with jet washer I went around all 4-wheels and disconnected, cleaned, inspected and reconnected wires.
Took car for drive and they were still on.

I connected car to autel802 scanner and the following codes came up:

C1010 = terminal 87 undervoltage
C1103-4 = L6/4 (right rear speed sensor) Loose Contact
C1120-1 = N64 (ESP Yaw Rate Sensor) Electrical
C1140-128 = N49 (Steering Angle Sensor) steering angle sensor not initialised
C1142-1 = B24/2 (ESP lateral acceleration sensor) Electrical Fault
C1025-2 = CAN Bus: CAN Message ABS is faulty

I've tried the following with no resolution:

- steering lock to lock to calibrate steering sensor
- replaced brake assist switch
- recharged battery fully
- thoroughly cleaned, rechecked and refitted abs sensor on right rear - also checked resistance and continuity which were good and on scanner the speed sensor was working as was registering a speed mph on live data.

If anyone can help solve this issue I'd be really grateful as I've search forum this evening to find fix and there's nothing similar to my problem. My suspicion is that one sensor has gone down which has had a dominoe effect, however I don't know where to start to check which sensor is the culprit.

Cheers in advance for help
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#2 Old 01-22-2017
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It might be worth clearing the codes, disconnecting the battery for 1/2 and hour and see what happens. If you have the OEM radio, you'll need to recode it. I had a similar issue a couple years back and it cleared it up. If it doesn't work, at least you'll have done no harm.
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#3 Old 01-22-2017

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Same thing happened with my Magnum. Started up and the whole dash lit up as you described. Also, you don't want to drive it if at all possible. You'll find that when you slow down, it'll start going slow, slow (normal, what you'd expect) then a real hard downshift and you'll get a stupendous jolt as it really downshifts hard.

In my case, the speed sensor is called a tone ring (might be the same with the MB, don't know). Only affected right rear (left turned out to be fine). Tells the "brain" how fast the wheels are turning so the tranny can accomodate.

Because it was faulty, you can drive at a constant speed (constant being the key word here) but any speed changes, well be prepared.

You'll be able to drive to the stealer if you can't change the part yourself but just be prepared for those downshifts.
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#4 Old 01-22-2017
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Put a multimeter on the wheel sensors and check the ohms..
Passenger side front on mine had gone bad.
Same lights on as you have.
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