SLK Fuel Problems - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 01-07-2017
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SLK Fuel Problems

My 2001 SLK stops running after a half hour or so and when it does you turn on the key and don't' hear the pump turn on for a second or so and then turn off pressurizing the rail. After 15 min,. or so turn on the key hear to pump do it's thing
and then the car will start and run again. Fuel pump? Relay?
By the way where is the fuel pump located on my 2001? Thanks!
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#2 Old 01-07-2017
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this is for a 230 but should be the same

Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 Fuel Pump Replacement | 1998-2004 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
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#3 Old 01-07-2017
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Component Locations m3

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#4 Old 01-08-2017
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I think the K40 relay board contains the relay for the fuel pump. That'd be the first place I'd look. K40's are a common problem and only need re-soldering to fix the problem (usually). There's a sticky for it, otherwise do a search.
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#5 Old 01-08-2017
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I pulled the K40 relay module and found a total of 5 relays. I didn't find any cold solder joints or anyplace on the module that looks burned or over heated. Re-installed the module and still have the same problem. Should I replace the module with a new one? It looks like it could be a little pricey. At this point I'm thinking that the fuel pump itself is probably not the problem but the fuel pump relay is most likely the culprit. Thanks!
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#6 Old 01-08-2017
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reflow the solder on it first
you might not see it but the 'break' might be there
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#7 Old 01-08-2017
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#8 Old 01-08-2017
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#9 Old 01-09-2017
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Hi James,
Like Jeff says, it's not always easy to see any bad joints on the K40 relay. In my case I could see them - but only just. Bad K40 solder joints show up in several different symptoms; mine wasn't a fuel pump problem. If you are getting access to the fuel pump anyway, why don't you just check there's voltage on it before you lift it out? Obviously, voltage on the pump and pump not running; it's faulty. Voltage not present; you need to look elsewhere. Re-soldering a K40 doesn't cost anything if you're reasonably proficient with a soldering iron. Reading this forum suggests there's been many more faulty K40s, than fuel pumps (which doesn't mean it can't be the fuel pump, of course). I would suggest K40s are more likely than a fuel pump to show intermittent symptoms like you're having.

Do the cheap checks before buying parts. By the way, K40's aren't all that expensive - $100 to $150 on ebay.
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#10 Old 01-09-2017
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This might help you identify the fuel pump relay. I'm assuming FP in the legend means fuel pump, and the last post of page one mentions fuel pump.

K40 relay circuit and associated - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#11 Old 01-23-2017
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Well, I decided to eliminate the K40 relay module altogether and installed a new part. The car ran fine until I made a stop at the store. When I came out to car wouldn't start. Like before, you wait about 15 minutes and then you can hear the fuel pump kick in for a second or two and then shut off as normal when you turn the ignition switch on. Then the car started up and took me all the way home. I guess I have to get access to the fuel pump and check the connections for corrosion etc. and then make up my mind whether I need a new fuel pump and filter or not.
I want to thank everyone for all their help and input with this little problem of mine.
Thanks!
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#12 Old 01-23-2017
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Be aware not to overfill the tank.
That can cause almost similar, but not quite the same as you've had.
It can 'flood' the charcoal canister and may not show immediately.


Hope you get it fixed.

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#13 Old 01-23-2017
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Just a thought maybe the fault is not related to the pump. A failing crankshaft position sensor (CPS) will work when cold but once the engine warms up it breaks down and won't allow the engine to start. Once the car has cooled again it starts. This gets progressively worse until it fails completely. Worth checking as it's a realatiively easy fix.
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