Another LED HyperFlash Problem - EU Spec 2002 SLK 230 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 01-04-2017
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Another LED HyperFlash Problem - EU Spec 2002 SLK 230

Hello community! I have a HyperFlash problem after replacing all for indicator Halogen bulbs with LED's. They all are CANBUS to the point that they don't throw up a "bulb out" indication although they HyperFlash so the Relay is obviously the issue since the OEM Relay is designed for Halogen bulbs. I have read so much about it and I'm mentally exhausted and have to ask for help. Now, before everyone stops reading and starts posting links to other posts on this site and others, read on.

My SLK is EU Spec 2002 230 Post-Facelift and some things don't seem to be in the same place as indicated with other SLK's of earlier years and even US versions for that matter. Specifically, the Flasher Relay Module. I can not find it for the life of me. It seems to NOT be one of the two relay modules where the fuses are located (Black and Yellow), see photo below. So I went ahead and bought a 5 prong LED Electronic Flasher EP27 12 Volt module like I've read all over the Internet that explicitly shows that Flasher Relay should be located in the fuse box on the drivers side and needs to be replaced with one that is designed for LED's like I bought. I could be wrong of course, I could have a bad LED Flasher Relay but I have been thrashing my brain on this issue and its driving me insane. The reason I think neither of those two relay modules are the Flasher Module is that when I remove both of them, the blinkers still work and HyperFlash. Would the blinkers not work or just stay on and not blink at all if the relay is removed?

Bulbs used; https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flasher Relay Module I bought; https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I hope I can get this sorted out, it would be a shame to have to go back to HALO indicator bulbs.

Thanks for any input in advance.

Oz.

P.S. I hope the photo is not overly large as I am an imgur newb
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#2 Old 01-04-2017
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Not totally up to speed on doing so many LEDs at the same time.

I wonder if you need a ballast resistor? As well as the Canbus.

I've checked your bulb link and am struggling with my German.
I wonder if they are copies?
Some copies appear to meet the required description, but in reality do not.

The electrical boys should be able to clarify.

As for items not being where you would expect.
I had the same issue when looking at the MAF sensor for our former 2004 230 K.
It was higher up the airflow pipework than all the diy threads suggested.

I think there must have been some upgrades in the later R170s
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#3 Old 01-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avel Du View Post
Not totally up to speed on doing so many LEDs at the same time.

I wonder if you need a ballast resistor? As well as the Canbus.

I've checked your bulb link and am struggling with my German.
I wonder if they are copies?
Some copies appear to meet the required description, but in reality do not.

The electrical boys should be able to clarify.

As for items not being where you would expect.
I had the same issue when looking at the MAF sensor for our former 2004 230 K.
It was higher up the airflow pipework than all the diy threads suggested.

I think there must have been some upgrades in the later R170s
Thanks for the reply Avel Du,

I would like to avoid resistors at all costs if I can, I have a set that came with my HB4 LED Fog's and boy do they get way too hot for my liking and can melt wires or worse if not mounted correctly. (I can only imagine how hot they will get during the height of summer.) If I can get away with a plug n play solution I will take it, one simple relay swap seems much more simple and safer than this fellow with two left hands and couldn't even act like I am mechanically inclined. But that's why I'm here, to get great input from people like you and not fork over ridiculous amounts of money for labour unnecessarily. This will ring especially true when I take this baby back to Canada after this posting.

Thanks again!

Oz.
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#4 Old 01-04-2017
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Cool

I tried fitting LED bulbs into my front (R171) Fogs lights and they Flashed, not hyper but about once a second. I put ultra bright halogen bulbs in after trying several things to fix the problem.
My indicators are LED and work fine. But.... I did get the chirp on lock activated and then the indicators started showing alarms.
Maybe take all the LED'S out and re- fit one set at a time?
I also have LED front side lights and number plate lights.
Good luck
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#5 Old 01-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oziumentisis View Post
Thanks for the reply Avel Du,

I would like to avoid resistors at all costs if I can, I have a set that came with my HB4 LED Fog's and boy do they get way too hot for my liking and can melt wires or worse if not mounted correctly. (I can only imagine how hot they will get during the height of summer.) If I can get away with a plug n play solution I will take it, one simple relay swap seems much more simple and safer than this fellow with two left hands and couldn't even act like I am mechanically inclined. But that's why I'm here, to get great input from people like you and not fork over ridiculous amounts of money for labour unnecessarily. This will ring especially true when I take this baby back to Canada after this posting.

Thanks again!

Oz.
I'm no expert Oz.

I just read a lot on here, to get an idea of what I might do with my own car.

I fancied LEDs but after reading what folk have to do to sort them, I went off the idea.
For now at least.
They seem to have a shorter lifespan and trying to get all of the errors sorted is frustrating.
One thing that has struck me is a need to go for quality LEDs.
Those that use the quality bulbs seem to have less issues and a longer life (for bulb and man).

The only LEDs I have are Cree indicators.

Myk
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#6 Old 01-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55russamg View Post
I tried fitting LED bulbs into my front (R171) Fogs lights and they Flashed, not hyper but about once a second. I put ultra bright halogen bulbs in after trying several things to fix the problem.
My indicators are LED and work fine. But.... I did get the chirp on lock activated and then the indicators started showing alarms.
Maybe take all the LED'S out and re- fit one set at a time?
I also have LED front side lights and number plate lights.
Good luck
I tested them when I initially put in the two front ones, which they blinked at a normal rate, it was once I had the rear halogens swapped out did it begin to hyperflash. I will definitely try swapping out the bulbs again. Its really frustrating!

Thanks and I will verify it and report back.

Oz.
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#7 Old 01-04-2017
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A couple points I want to make clear, every bulb I did replace, was tested one at a time. It wasn't until the last bulb of four indicators was tested that the hyperflash occurred. I don't have any issues with any other lights replaced on the vehicle. Which were, Fog's (of which are CANBUS and have the "earths core hot" ballast, daylight running, parking, rear brake lights, license plate lights, trunk light, interior headlamps. All four indicators are working, they are just behaving like a halogen light being out on a US Spec vehicle or towing a trailer and it trying to drive the trailers lights as well.

Ok, off to put back in one rear halogen to see if the hyperblinking stops. If it does, its got to be the relay I still for the life of me can not find.

Cheers,

Oz.
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#8 Old 01-04-2017
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Hi Oz. Hope I can help.

If I read your post right, you've replaced the four turn indicator bulbs with LED equivalents. Looking at the spec of the LEDs you've chosen, they are rated at 11W each. Therefore, with a car battery, the current flowing through the flasher unit would be about 1.5A for both LEDs on together. With the old filament bulbs that current would be twice that - 3A.

As you probably know, the flasher unit is designed to hyperflash when one of the two bulbs have failed - thus providing you with an immediate indication that a bulb has failed. It does this by detecting the reduced current that flows when the bulb fails. As you can probably deduce, your two LEDs give the flasher unit the same load as one filament bulb, which is why you have the LEDs hyperflashing.

The relay that does this switching is built into the Multifunction Control Unit which is probably not wise to play with, so I would look to increase the load your LEDs present by adding a high-power resistor across the indicator under the bonnet or hood. I would look to add a load resistor (50W / 6 or 10 ohm) to each of the indicator circuits. Something like these or the equivalent from your own Amazon store.



Let us know how you get on.
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Last edited by savcom; 01-04-2017 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Added a picture
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#9 Old 01-04-2017
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Cool

Have a look at my links below.
I am sure the Rears would not be halogen but normal filament bulbs.
I purchased mine from a company that was able to advise me and I was able to return LED'S that did not work correctly.
Maybe bite the bullet and contact a local suppliers and get some advice, you may have to re- purchase but you may be happier....
I did spend a lot on my indicator LED'S, around £60.

Cheers Russ


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#10 Old 01-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Hi Oz. Hope I can help.

If I read your post right, you've replaced the four turn indicator bulbs with LED equivalents. Looking at the spec of the LEDs you've chosen, they are rated at 11W each. Therefore, with a car battery, the current flowing through the flasher unit would be about 1.5A for both LEDs on together. With the old filament bulbs that current would be twice that - 3A.

As you probably know, the flasher unit is designed to hyperflash when one of the two bulbs have failed - thus providing you with an immediate indication that a bulb has failed. It does this by detecting the reduced current that flows when the bulb fails. As you can probably deduce, your two LEDs give the flasher unit the same load as one filament bulb, which is why you have the LEDs hyperflashing.

The relay that does this switching is built into the Multifunction Control Unit which is probably not wise to play with, so I would look to increase the load your LEDs present by adding a high-power resistor across the indicator under the bonnet or hood. I would look to add a load resistor (50W / 6 or 10 ohm) to each of the indicator circuits. Something like these or the equivalent from your own Amazon store.



Let us know how you get on.
I was afraid it was integrated into Multifunction Control Unit, and no, its not something I want to play with. I've stumbled across a bunch of posts where some were having issues with their blinkers getting stuck on and that there were ways to open that up and clean it and even un-soldering and rebuilding the relay and re-soldering... no thanks, not that skilled or confident to meddle with circuit boards. I was hoping it was as easy as an illusive ISO Relay Module hidden somewhere else... I will look into load resistors and go from there. Thanks for clarifying it, at least my mind can relax now knowing what I need to do next to solve it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 55russamg View Post
Have a look at my links below.
I am sure the Rears would not be halogen but normal filament bulbs.
I purchased mine from a company that was able to advise me and I was able to return LED'S that did not work correctly.
Maybe bite the bullet and contact a local suppliers and get some advice, you may have to re- purchase but you may be happier....
I did spend a lot on my indicator LED'S, around £60.
Yes, filament bulb, not halogen... Messing with too many bulbs in the last week is scrambling my brains. I think I'm going to bite the bullet on the Relay as it was dirt cheap (under 5 Euro), and look at a resistor solution.

Thanks to everyone who added their 2 cents, it was greatly appreciated!

Oz.
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#11 Old 01-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avel Du View Post
I'm no expert Oz.

I just read a lot on here, to get an idea of what I might do with my own car.

I fancied LEDs but after reading what folk have to do to sort them, I went off the idea.
For now at least.
They seem to have a shorter lifespan and trying to get all of the errors sorted is frustrating.
One thing that has struck me is a need to go for quality LEDs.
Those that use the quality bulbs seem to have less issues and a longer life (for bulb and man).

The only LEDs I have are Cree indicators.

I agree with the not dealing with LEDs. Used to put them everywhere. Not so much anymore. I cannot enjoy the change sitting IN the car so why bother for those outside the car.
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