Winter project - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 12-15-2016
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Winter project

Hi all. I thought I'd put up a thread of my winter project. As you can see in the photo it's a 97 230 Kompressor in silver. I picked it up a few weeks ago in south Dublin. I got it at what I think was a great price. ?600. It has 141000 miles on it, a few months NCT (yearly safety inspection here in Ireland) but no road tax. It was not running right. It had a very high idle and when you touched the accelerator it would rev up but wouldn't drop below 1500 rpm. I borrowed a diagnostic kit from a friend of mine (my own kit does not have the 38 pin connector) and it showed up an internal short in the throttle body. A quick search on DoneDeal.ie brought me to a small car breaker not far away from me that specialises in SLKs. I picked up a good one off him for ?40. Bolted it on, cleared the fault codes and it was running much better, but still not quite right.
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#2 Old 12-16-2016
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Had a day off a few days ago and decided to have another look at the rough running. Another quick scan revealed no faults stored in the memory. I pulled out the spark plugs and they weren't too bad, so I kept on pulling the rocker cover off to check the timing. I didn't have the correct locking pins for the camshaft pulleys, so after a scout around the garage I found two bolts which fitted snugly. Lined up the crankshaft to 20' ATDC and surprise surprise, both the inlet and exhaust cams were on the very upper end of their limits. I spent the rest of the day pulling out the supercharger, air intake assembly and everything else to get to the timing chain tensioner. I reset the cam timing and put it all back together. When I started the car the difference was amazing. Starting much easier, it runs much more smoothly and idles at 750 rpm. Just where it should.
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#3 Old 12-16-2016
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One thing I noticed on these cold damp nights, was that the drivers side heater wasn't as warm as the passengers side. I got the engine up to temperature and turned the heating on full. Of the two pipes coming to the heater control valves one was noticeably warmer then the other. This could mean that one of the heater matrix was blocked and not allowing enough coolant through or the heater valve was staying closed or the heater controls were broken. I decided to try the heater valve first because it's much easier to get to. I checked the electrical contact and found no difference between the two sides of the valve. So I took the valve apart. It's a dual electromagnetic valve and when I looked at the two plungers, one was fully extended the other was retracted. When I tried to move the plungers the one that was extended was seized solid. After soaking it in WD40 for an hour and a little patience I managed to work the plunger free. I cleaned up both plungers and reassembled the valve. After starting the car within a few minutes the cabin was warm and the valve was not leaking. Here's hoping all the rest of the jobs I have to do work out as easy and cheaply.
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#4 Old 12-16-2016
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Sounds like you'll soon have it all tip top and ship shape, nice work !


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#5 Old 12-17-2016
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Thanks Curro101. I'm looking forward to getting it out on the road soon.
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#6 Old 12-17-2016
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Why in the world did you check the cam timing? I'm glad you found something, but I never would have guessed that cause. What made you suspect the cam timing issue?


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Had a day off a few days ago and decided to have another look at the rough running. Another quick scan revealed no faults stored in the memory. I pulled out the spark plugs and they weren't too bad, so I kept on pulling the rocker cover off to check the timing. I didn't have the correct locking pins for the camshaft pulleys, so after a scout around the garage I found two bolts which fitted snugly. Lined up the crankshaft to 20' ATDC and surprise surprise, both the inlet and exhaust cams were on the very upper end of their limits. I spent the rest of the day pulling out the supercharger, air intake assembly and everything else to get to the timing chain tensioner. I reset the cam timing and put it all back together. When I started the car the difference was amazing. Starting much easier, it runs much more smoothly and idles at 750 rpm. Just where it should.
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#7 Old 12-17-2016
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I checked the timing because there were no faults in the ECU memory so I figured it was a mechanical issue. The compression was even across the four cylinders but a tiny bit low. I suspected that the head was off at some time previously so I checked the cam timing.
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#8 Old 12-17-2016
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Nice job. That would have taken me forever to figure out.

Did you recheck the compression to see if it's better now?


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I checked the timing because there were no faults in the ECU memory so I figured it was a mechanical issue. The compression was even across the four cylinders but a tiny bit low. I suspected that the head was off at some time previously so I checked the cam timing.
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#9 Old 12-17-2016
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I didn't get a chance yet. I'm stuck in work unfortunately for the next few days. Hopefully get back to it before Christmas.
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#10 Old 12-22-2016
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Not much to report since the last post. Up to my eyes in work. It's starting to get busy with everybody flying home for Christmas. I've only managed to find time to do a bit of polishing on the car, but even this is hard work with a typical Irish winter. Hopefully there will be more to report soon.
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#11 Old 12-22-2016
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Here's a 50/50 of the boot lid (or trunk lid for our American friends)
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#12 Old 01-04-2017
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Hello again. I hate to say it but I haven't done a lot of work on the car since the last update except cleaning it. I have run into a small problem though. The two guide blocks on the boot lid are worn through the plastic covering and I'm having a hard time finding the correct part numbers. My local M-B dealer cant be 100% sure of the number he is ordering. It's the black coloured part just above the strut ball joint in the photo. Thanks in advance.
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#13 Old 01-05-2017
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Can't tell you what they are off the top of my head but that question has come up before.

Try a site search starting 'SLKWorld.com'

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#14 Old 01-05-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starvin View Post
Hello again. I hate to say it but I haven't done a lot of work on the car since the last update except cleaning it. I have run into a small problem though. The two guide blocks on the boot lid are worn through the plastic covering and I'm having a hard time finding the correct part numbers. My local M-B dealer cant be 100% sure of the number he is ordering. It's the black coloured part just above the strut ball joint in the photo. Thanks in advance.
It is kind of hard to tell from your pic. Can you take another or so at different angles? Also, what does it mate to when the lid is closed?
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#15 Old 01-05-2017
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OR load the pic into windows PAINT program (comes free with windows) and then use a (red) paint brush to circle the part in question, save the new pic and post that pic in this thread.
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#16 Old 01-05-2017
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It is kind of hard to tell from your pic. Can you take another or so at different angles? Also, what does it mate to when the lid is closed?
I looked through WIS and then compared that to the parts catalog and it looks like the part is call a side stop (keeps the lid from excessive movement side to side). The part numbers are Right 170 637 04 90 and Left 170 637 03 90. Good luck.
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#17 Old 01-05-2017
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Sorry about the bad photo. I've no access to the car at the minute and that was the only one I could find on the Web. I'll try to get more pictures up later.

Thanks for all the replies.
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#18 Old 01-05-2017
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Quote:
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Sorry about the bad photo. I've no access to the car at the minute and that was the only one I could find on the Web. I'll try to get more pictures up later.

Thanks for all the replies.
You may have missed my lat post. I think I figured out what you need and provided part numbers for you.
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#19 Old 01-06-2017
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Thanks again for the post Mchild. I'm heading to the MB dealer later and I'll get him to order them.
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#20 Old 01-11-2017
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Mchild, those parts arrived this morning and fitted perfectly. Thanks again.
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