Interior light and central locking switch, dry PSE - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 11-02-2012
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Interior light and central locking switch, dry PSE

Ok, first the problem description:
Central locking switch on the inside of the car will unlock, but not lock. Central locking from the remote is perfect.
Interior lights will not go off, even after a delay.

I've checked all four bulbs (two in the dome, glovebox and boot) and they're fine, I went ahead and replaced them with LED units anyway. The lights work when I press the on/off toggle switch in the roof, but I have to keep the operation switch in the off position "0" otherwise they stay on all the time, even when driving.

I've read that this can be a problem with the PSE, so I pulled out the spare wheel and jack and removed the PSE, it was dry with no signs of water damage, and the foam around it didnt seem to have ever been wet, so not wanting to risk damage, I put it back.

Before I remove the PSE from the car and strip it down, is there anything else that could be causing this combination of problems?

Thanks.
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#2 Old 11-02-2012
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From my short experience with the PSE issues, I had corrosion on mine. I took the PSE out and tried to clean it best I could. My white connector on the PSE side had corrosion under it. So after cleaning it and no change to the dome light issue I pulled the pin connection out of the white holder and then pulled the door switch wires out. From there I found that one of the connections worked fine. The other 2 were bad connections and made the dome light stay on. The door switches worked fine. So I made jumpers for the bad connections on the PSE to the one pin that worked. So now I can open either door or trunk and the lights work normally. As for the locking aspect I haven't encountered that with my 230. Best bet is to pull the PSE out and go over it. I used electric contact cleaner and a small paint brush to clean under the white pin header best I could. Worth a shot for you. Just don't try and man handle the PSE with opening or removing. Best of luck.
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#3 Old 11-04-2012
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Thanks, I've just removed the PSE and sure enough, even though it seemed ok at first, there was corrosion at the black and white connectors. Does anyone know if it's safe to drive the car with the PSE removed? I need to go and buy some contact cleaner.
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#4 Old 11-04-2012
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Well, after cleaning it up I found that one of the pins in the black connector was broken. The trace for this pin is either not connected to anything, or connected on the component side of the board so I cant see where it goes to.

Once I was happy it was clean, I put it back to test and the symptoms are still exactly the same, so I guess I'm in the market for a replacement PSE
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#5 Old 11-07-2012
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You should try and clean all of those up and see what happens. The white one is the one that controls the lights. Not sure about the black one. Mine was clean. Yes you can drive the car fine without it hooked up. No power locks or alarm.
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#6 Old 11-07-2012
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#7 Old 01-16-2013
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I have the same problem with my 320... Using the dashboard switch I can open the doors but not lock them. The light does not go out without switching to position 0. the remote locking works fine. PSE pump seems dry and without corrosion. I am going to trace the wires from the pump to be sure of continuity.
The car is in my garage for its annual restoration. I noticed a bunch of wires under the car, that look like they have been hit (speed bump Gerrrr) don't know where these go to but I will find out and report back to you.
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#8 Old 02-15-2013
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This is exactly the same issue I have, have you managed to make any progress?
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#9 Old 02-15-2013
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No, not yet, but I'm certain that the PSE is at fault.
Mine is part number 1708000848 and the Merc dealer tells me it's replaced with 1708000848 which is the only one they can sell me... for just short of 500

Been looking, without success so far for a cheap one on ebay.
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#10 Old 02-18-2013
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I am wondering if a faulty door sensor could be causing this issue (the little switch that gets pushed in when you shut the door).

Does anyone know how to remove these? I was intending on inspecting and possibly with the switch removed connecting up the circuit to trick the car that the door is shut, just to prove that determine if it is a faulty door switch or not.
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#11 Old 02-18-2013
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Normally they'll just have a screw and then prise out with a flat screw driver !
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#12 Old 04-02-2013
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Any update on this? Sounds exactly like my current issue!
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#13 Old 04-03-2013
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You can do what i did if you dont want to spend the $500. You can pull the wires out of the white connector and try to trick the pse. One of my connections for the door/ trunk switch was fine. So I just ran all three wires to the one that worked. Has been fine ever since. If this one dies a new pse will be needed for me. You can find a post to which wires go to what on here somewhere. I am leaving for work now or I'd look.
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#14 Old 04-03-2013
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I stripped out my PSE this morning. It looks brand new. No dirty contacts, no corrosion and no apparent dry joints. I'm going to go and retrieve it from the car again and will resolder everything in sight!
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#15 Old 04-03-2013
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Interesting development. Driving around on a bumpy section of road the interior light is flashing on occasionally in spite of being switched off!
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#16 Old 04-04-2013
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Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
Interesting development. Driving around on a bumpy section of road the interior light is flashing on occasionally in spite of being switched off!

That is a pse most likely.When the pse goes bad the light switch becomes 2 always on and 1 off. I dont rememeber which setting was which. Only other issue would be a door/trunk sensor. There are only 3 connections for those that go to the pse.
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#17 Old 04-04-2013
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I stripped out my PSE yesterday and it looks as good as the day it was built so I'm loath to go the PSE replacement route just yet.

I investigated the PSE in my 'spare' car, took one look at the contacts which were corroded to hell and decided not to disturb it since it was working perfectly.

Back to fault diagnosis. I may yet find some duff connectors, just about to go and buy some contact cleaner and then get back to fault finding but it's snowing lightly and damned cold outside
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#18 Old 04-08-2013
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The console central locking switch goes to the roof control module n10-3 under the bonnet. It is either floating with the switch in centre position, ground, switch in unlock position or 4.5 volts, switch in lock position. All working fine.

Boot lock is a bit more complicated but all working fine.

Door switches go to the seat control relay and appear to be good.

If i disconnect and reconnect my pse with the light switch in the door position the light stays off until a door is opened and then it comes on permanently.

I'm going to swap out my n10-3 module first!
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#19 Old 04-08-2013
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Well the n10 unit made no difference at all!

And the signals to the PSE from the doors look good.

HAH! Ground point W7 does not appear to be a ground at the moment!

Last edited by nimbusgb; 04-08-2013 at 11:49 AM.
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#20 Old 04-09-2013
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Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
Well the n10 unit made no difference at all!

And the signals to the PSE from the doors look good.

HAH! Ground point W7 does not appear to be a ground at the moment!
Sounds like you are making some good progress. Are the electrical diagrams that you are using available online somewhere?
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