drivers door unlocks but wont lock - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 10-21-2012
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drivers door unlocks but wont lock

Hi,
This is my first post and indeed my first Mercedes!
Yesterday I picked up an SLK 200K, 2000 registration and I love it so far, although I've already found my first problem (hope theres not many more!)

The drivers door unlocks with the key and the remote, but does not lock with the remote, or when driving away. The passenger door, boot and fuel lock do work as expected.

The central locking button on the console will lock the unlock the doors when pressed, but does not unlock anything when pressed the other way (not sure it should)

There is a hissing sound in the drivers door which I guess is the vacuum compressor for the system, but it does seem to run more than I'd expect, like you can be driving along and the pump/hissing starts up.

If it were a broken vacuum line then I'd expect the drivers door to neither lock nor unlock, but it does unlock so I'm stumped.

This means that I have to arm the car with the remote and then lock the door with the key, not the end of the world but a bit annoying and I'd love to get it fixed.

Does anyone have any ideas for me, taking it to a dealer and paying hundreds for a fix isnt really an option, I'm looking for a diy fix here.

Thanks for your time
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#2 Old 10-21-2012
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#3 Old 10-21-2012
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Have you tried a 'search' top right?

also look at Leapyfish's sig block here for r170 issues/fixes:

https://www.slkworld.com/325231-post11.html


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#4 Old 10-21-2012
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Thanks jbanks, I did try a search actually but didnt find anything directly related, I'll try again with different search terma. Also the link you offer just shows lots of "you must have 5 posts before you can see these" comments!
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#5 Old 10-21-2012
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#6 Old 10-21-2012
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quick update to say that it seems intermittent (I was sure it was working before I bought it!) Sometimes the drivers lock does lock by the remote. The door pins seem to move slowly though, so I'm suspecting a vacuum leak and stiff locks, so sometimes it doesnt have enough power to move them.
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#7 Old 10-27-2012
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Fixed it!
Found another thread that mentioned the same symptoms, it suggested a broken vacuum coupling that joins the air pipes to the lock actuator so I bought a couple of them and pulled the door skin off today, sure enough it was cracked, which allowed enough pressure to build to open the lock, but not enough to lock it.

Swapped it out and its working perfectly now.

Just a few issues left, namely the switch on the center console will unlock but not lock, and the interior lights wont go off. It's all part of the fun
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#8 Old 10-27-2012
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Great job!!


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#9 Old 10-28-2012
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Thanks!
Just for completeness, this is the post that nailed it, it's on a different forum though. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ml#post5196759
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#10 Old 03-25-2016
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Matphilips, do you recall how to replace the vacuum coupler? Do I have to remove the entire door panel? If so, how do I do this?

My SLK 230 just started having this issue with the driver's side door.

Thank you!
#11 Old 03-25-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Matphilips, do you recall how to replace the vacuum coupler? Do I have to remove the entire door panel? If so, how do I do this?

My SLK 230 just started having this issue with the driver's side door.

Thank you!
FYI, Matphilips has not been back on the forum since: Last Activity: 07-12-2013
hopefully he has subscribed to this thread and will be notified of your post.

fyi, thread is 4 years old.

https://www.slkworld.com/new-members-...d-how-fix.html


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#12 Old 03-25-2016
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Ah, the wonders of email notifications
Also, wow, it's been that long?!

Anyway, yeah I don't remember too much about replacing that part, but the door panel comes off easily and then there's the usual plastic weather sheet to be peeled away, or cut away if you prefer. Duck tape will remedy those cuts.

There's a screw in the door release handle to remove, then slide out the plastic housing by holding the opener halfway and manoeuvring it out. A couple of screws in the arm rest and then pop the door skin off one clip at a time, then lift up to clear the window clip. Watch out for the speaker cable on the inside.

The coupling is a friction fit onto the lock mechanism, so just pull it off (carefully) it likely won't come out of the vacuum tube, so you may need to cut it off and hope there's enough remaining length in the line to still fit when the new piece is inserted.
Mine had a break in the hose too, so I cut past the break and used an inline coupler to joint a short piece of vacuum line to extend it.

The whole thing took about 10 minutes, there's nothing to it.
Good luck!
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#13 Old 03-28-2016
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Had same issue with mine on Pass door. Swapped out the lock mech & all is good. Even does the anti-hijack locking when i'm in car now. Pain in the arse to swap em, but worth the effort ;-)
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#14 Old 02-04-2017
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both locks unlock but wont lock

hi Matt
i have been reading your posts regarding the door locks of your slk. Mine also has same issue. the passenger door slowly stopped not locking from remote or inside button. than the drivers side door stopped. they both open though. also same with the trunk.
i have bought the couplings and the coupling connectors. i also got small piece of vacuum tube the dealer gave me. but they dont seem to go into the connector. the dealer suggested to use some heat. please can you let me know how you fitted the coupling and connectors.
i can feel the air push out when i press the lock.
i am hopping its not the pse pump

thanks for your time
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#15 Old 02-13-2017
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aha!

Search has provided yet again... this sounds exactly like my problem with drivers door...

I'm wondering, could I just completely cowboy this and just tape it up?

I'm planning on removing the door panel soon anyway to do a spot of respraying,...2 birds with 1 stone and all of that....

1 question though in regards to airbags; I saw a video of the door panel being removed and guy there says disconnect negative from battery to avoid problems with airbags... I'm guessing the problem would be thew airbag could be triggered? Might be worth just disconnecting to be on the safe side I reckon..

Might see if I can get the part ordered also..

this forum rocks.

Thanks,

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#16 Old 03-21-2017
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Fixed!!!!

Got the part from a local provider; shout out Home page. These guys seriously rock.

Rang them this afternoon 17.10 and 19.10 the coupling connection was in my hand and cost of €5 delivered locally.

Admittedly I had to bodge it, like seriously bodge it (superglue was used). Not sure it will last on the long term but the smile on my face this evening after locking and unlocking the car several times with the remote, after a having to lock it with the key since buying, you cannot put a price on that!

Thank you @matphillips and all other contributors.

Made my week totally.

Cheers,

RLander.
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#17 Old 03-21-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLander View Post
Fixed!!!!
(superglue was used). .
Other glues are available.




Other cars, however, are not

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#18 Old 03-22-2017
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....wait, what?

It was mean to be simple, just attach the pipe onto the new fitting and pop it on, however the pipe was too short, so I had to join a spare piece of pipe (that came with the 2nd hand fitting) to the original pipe and then to the fitting.

like I said, I bodged it. If it all goes pete tong in the next few weeks I may just bite the bullet and pay for a professional to fix it.

in hindsight, i feel a hairdryer may have helped me out a bit to soften the pipe, but yea, hindsight is c ruel mistress; for now I have fully working central locking .

Cant wait to see if the anti- hi-jack works this morning.

Cheers,

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Nb: no idea what you mean @Avel Du; I have three other vehicles available to me for use at any time (except today the Honda is in the shop)m, still two other choices though :P
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#19 Old 03-22-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLander View Post
....wait, what?

Nb: no idea what you mean @Avel Du; I have three other vehicles available to me for use at any time (except today the Honda is in the shop)m, still two other choices though :P

You have two other vehicles, but still only one car

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#20 Old 03-22-2017
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Only one that's worth driving.

I'm a bit torn by this r170 to be honest - part of me wants to do as little mileage as possible and try and keep it until it becomes a classic and the other part of me just wants to drive it at every opportunity.

The latter part is winning at the moment, just hit 90k miles. Dreams of being a low mileage classic in a few years are well and truly over I would say.

The other option I have i suppose is to keep an eye out for any that come up with low mileage and lock it away in storage for 10 years..

Meh.
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