Thanks for your post. I used the "hex" tool as you and many have suggested to relieve the hydraulic pump pressure. However, I can still "lift up" the trunk lids front corners so it still must not be fully closed. I have applied pressure along the front trunk edge in many places to no avail. The red light is out when starting the vehicle, but as soon as I drive a few yards it comes back on and starts beeping. Any suggestions? The trunk looks like it is fully down, but apparently it isn't. Do I need to pull the left and right cords to "open" the catch for the trunk lid to "lock" into place?
I dont think you can latch it... I know a lot of people said to push down, but the latches seem to be activated by the hydraulic cylinders. I've driven to about 50 MPH with them unlatched like that (while I was working on the hydraulic cylinders. Just drive slowly to where you want them repaired!
If the top is UP (aka you manually put the top up) it shouldnt matter for the most part because the wind downforce will keep it down. in fact, mine was unlatched for a 2 hour drive at over 70 mph on a trailer (when I picked it up) and nothing ever happened.
With the top down on the other hand, the wind may actually lift it up. The lower pressure above the trunk could lift it just enough for the wind to catch, but if you keep your speeds under 30 MPH or so thats not going to happen.
Either way you should have no problem driving it to be repaired. If your doing the repair yourself, open the trunkremove the side trunk panels, and you can manually push in the locking part yourself.
Some people will say with it unlocked it doesnt stop water from getting in the trunk. Note this is only when driving. It can sit there unlocked for months and no waters going to end up in the trunk unless you drive it, in which case it lifts up ever so slightly and allows water to escape into the trunk.