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SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

 
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#1 Old 05-17-2012
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Help!

Need your expertise please! Went to put "up" the roof today, started off OK but then stopped. Noticed hydraulic fluid "leaking" on the drivers side onto the rear window of my top. Was able to get the top back down into the trunk but now my red light is on and it makes a warning sound when attempting to drive. How can I get the roof to "lock" into the trunk, so I can get the light to go off and drive it to the repair shop? Thanks
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#2 Old 05-17-2012
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Is the trunk lid closed? If so, go ahead and drive it slowly, <30mph, to the shop. If not, release the pressure on the system so the lid will close. There is a hex wrench to do this behind a small panel on the rhs of the trunk. Instructions are in the manual.
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#3 Old 05-17-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdmuir View Post
Need your expertise please! Went to put "up" the roof today, started off OK but then stopped. Noticed hydraulic fluid "leaking" on the drivers side onto the rear window of my top. Was able to get the top back down into the trunk but now my red light is on and it makes a warning sound when attempting to drive. How can I get the roof to "lock" into the trunk, so I can get the light to go off and drive it to the repair shop? Thanks
You can either put the roof up or down, but as MrG indicated, it's probably not "fully" down, so a switch isn't being made. To make sure it's down all the way, you will need to do a manual stow of the roof, and that requires that you relive the pressure on the system. (You might be able to do it otherwise by pushing and prodding, but the hydraulics are pretty stout.)

To release the pressure, go behind the right side trunk panel. There should be a 6mm wrench stored on the back of the cover, and use it to turn out the brassy looking screw with the fixed washer on it till it can't come out any further. Now, gently push down on the roof to make sure it's all the way down and do the same with the trunk lid.

If you were getting the warning lights just after the problem, the system can get confused if it doesn't see the switches in the order it's expecting. Since you need/should have the car turned off to release the hydraulic pressure, once you seat the roof and the trunk, your warnings should go away when you start the car back up.

Also, once the trunk lid is down, if you can't pull up either ot its front corners, it is down!! If a corner comes up, lean on it again. (Or perhaps something is in the way of the reverse hinge latch inside the trunk . . . but that's only if the trunk lid comes up.)

Hope that helps you out.
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#4 Old 05-18-2012
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Thanks for your post. I used the "hex" tool as you and many have suggested to relieve the hydraulic pump pressure. However, I can still "lift up" the trunk lids front corners so it still must not be fully closed. I have applied pressure along the front trunk edge in many places to no avail. The red light is out when starting the vehicle, but as soon as I drive a few yards it comes back on and starts beeping. Any suggestions? The trunk looks like it is fully down, but apparently it isn't. Do I need to pull the left and right cords to "open" the catch for the trunk lid to "lock" into place?
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#5 Old 05-18-2012
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Originally Posted by wdmuir View Post
Thanks for your post. I used the "hex" tool as you and many have suggested to relieve the hydraulic pump pressure. However, I can still "lift up" the trunk lids front corners so it still must not be fully closed. I have applied pressure along the front trunk edge in many places to no avail. The red light is out when starting the vehicle, but as soon as I drive a few yards it comes back on and starts beeping. Any suggestions? The trunk looks like it is fully down, but apparently it isn't. Do I need to pull the left and right cords to "open" the catch for the trunk lid to "lock" into place?
I dont think you can latch it... I know a lot of people said to push down, but the latches seem to be activated by the hydraulic cylinders. I've driven to about 50 MPH with them unlatched like that (while I was working on the hydraulic cylinders. Just drive slowly to where you want them repaired!

If the top is UP (aka you manually put the top up) it shouldnt matter for the most part because the wind downforce will keep it down. in fact, mine was unlatched for a 2 hour drive at over 70 mph on a trailer (when I picked it up) and nothing ever happened.

With the top down on the other hand, the wind may actually lift it up. The lower pressure above the trunk could lift it just enough for the wind to catch, but if you keep your speeds under 30 MPH or so thats not going to happen.

Either way you should have no problem driving it to be repaired. If your doing the repair yourself, open the trunkremove the side trunk panels, and you can manually push in the locking part yourself.

Some people will say with it unlocked it doesnt stop water from getting in the trunk. Note this is only when driving. It can sit there unlocked for months and no waters going to end up in the trunk unless you drive it, in which case it lifts up ever so slightly and allows water to escape into the trunk.
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#6 Old 05-18-2012
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Have you tried to put the top up manually Emergency Top Operation


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#7 Old 05-18-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdmuir View Post
Thanks for your post. I used the "hex" tool as you and many have suggested to relieve the hydraulic pump pressure. However, I can still "lift up" the trunk lids front corners so it still must not be fully closed. I have applied pressure along the front trunk edge in many places to no avail. The red light is out when starting the vehicle, but as soon as I drive a few yards it comes back on and starts beeping. Any suggestions? The trunk looks like it is fully down, but apparently it isn't. Do I need to pull the left and right cords to "open" the catch for the trunk lid to "lock" into place?
Just to cover what I PM'd you early. Something must be amiss with the latch . . . I don't believe there are switches on the latches themselves, so if the lid is down, there should be no warnings. Do the warnings come on after you begin to drive in traffic? (i.e. at higher speeds as opposed to just sitting in the parking lot?) That could just be the aero lifting then, as described by Arachnyd. Which would mean you primarily have a latching problem. I'd really like you to make sure the tangs of the latches are all the way down by looking in the trunk.

Keep looking at it . . .
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#8 Old 05-19-2012
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Yes the "tangs" of the latches appear to be fully down. Also, the trunk is all the way down and flush with the side fenders and black deck lid. The latches just haven't closed and locked. I can' get the pump to finish the job. It is low on fluid and I can't hear it run at all and I don't want to keep trying at the risk of burning it up. Will the pump shut down as a result of low hydraulic fluid? I hope the roof cylinder and pump are not both shot. OUCH $$$$$$
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#9 Old 05-19-2012
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Originally Posted by wdmuir View Post
Yes the "tangs" of the latches appear to be fully down. Also, the trunk is all the way down and flush with the side fenders and black deck lid. The latches just haven't closed and locked. I can' get the pump to finish the job. It is low on fluid and I can't hear it run at all and I don't want to keep trying at the risk of burning it up. Will the pump shut down as a result of low hydraulic fluid? I hope the roof cylinder and pump are not both shot. OUCH $$$$$$
It won't shut down for low fluid. before I knew how these things worked and found this fabulous forum, I was running mine dry like it was my job, and I suspect the convertible top hasn't been operating for over 3 years on my car, so I'm sure the owner was doing the same...

Fortunately now its all rebuilt and fixed.

I thought I killed the pump too but I didn't, of course it is a risk, so I'd strongly recommend NOT running it out of fluid. Fluids only $17 from MB, a lot cheaper than a new pump
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