Join Date: Feb 2015
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 230
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May I add a few observations that should be obvious, but weren't to me? 2001 R-170
My roof was fully retracted with the trunk portion in the very beginning of the close sequence (trunk open from the rear hinge, but roof fully retracted) when we experienced cylinder failure. I could just snake my hand around to the pump location in the passenger side of the trunk with a flashlight to find the access hatch with the pump underneath. Once I had the hatch door off, no Allen wrench was evident and there were three possible Allen bolts in the center of the pump. Only after reading every post I could find did I discover that the GOLD colored bolt is the one you are after, and it turns counter-clockwise to release pressure. It won't come all the way out, so don't worry about turning it too far. The Allen wrench, of course, was in an extrusion on the inside of the hatch door, as I discovered when replacing it. Sunglasses on top of your head moment.
Once I had the pressure released, I (with BOTH doors open) gently but firmly lifted the black rear deck cover over the roof (which was still in the retracted position) until I had it at a 90 degree position to the roof. This raised the roof slightly, enough to snake my hand to the front center of the headliner to feel for the release latch cover. CAREFUL! IF YOU DON"T SUPPORT THE ROOF, IT WILL CLOSE ON YOUR HAND! I removed this, then (again by feel) inserted the same Allen wrench used to release the pump pressure in the release mechanism. This operates catches on both sides which release the roof enough to manually raise it. Be aware of stress on any particular point, and try to equalize the force across the rook to avoid bending or strain. When you have the roof up, turn the Allen wrench in the release mechanism and observe the silver catches on both side corners of the roof where it contacts the receiver sockets on the top of the windshield. Make sure these are fully opened before very carefully lowering the roof into place against the windshield. It may be heavier than you estimate, get another person if manual dexterity or upper body strength are limited. Once in place, use that same Allen wrench to lock the roof in place.
The trunk assembly was still hanging open, and the only way to shut it was to firmly, but gently, with even force across the entire assembly, push it against the mechanical/hydraulic assembly that cause it to be open. Once in place, I was able to open and firmly close the trunk, assuring me that the area was locked and sealed. Then I closed the doors, rolled the windows up, and used the roof operating button pushed forward to roll up the back windows. Now I'm out of the weather and safe to drive until my cylinder rebuild guy gets back from Sebring.
All of this was probably covered elsewhere, but I couldn't piece it together in a single narrative, so please pardon any redundancy.