BAS ESP Light intermitent. - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 08-09-2015
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BAS ESP Light intermitent.

Hi all.

Another quirk with my 2000 SLK 170 is the BAS ESP light.

I don't use the car regularly, only weekends. When I start the car and set off, no light. I comes on after a few minutes.
If I drive for about 30 minutes, stop and turn the ignition off and on, the light stays off.
Yesterday I did about 70 miles with the light off, parked up and left the car for 5 hours. On the return journey, the light did not come on at all.

Could this be a dirty contact? I've tried things suggested on other forums light turning the wheels from lock to lock and pressing the brake pedal but makes no difference.

Any suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks.

John.
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#2 Old 08-09-2015
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The BAS/ESP light is the catch-all warning on MBs - it could be something simple or lead to weeks of trial and error to find out what is throwing it. It seems to have a mind of its own!

If you ask around, most times it is the brake light switch, bad battery then wheel sensors, EIS (ignition switch) or other inexplicable item.
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#3 Old 08-09-2015
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It starts out intermitent, then gets worse. I invested in a OBD II scanner and read the code. I replaced the ESP sensor in the middle arm rest. Sensor is about $130. Take off grip on hand brake. pop plate around shifter. Two screws under shifter plate. Need to un-bolt back of arm rest. This is located in the compartment in the rear. I think 8mm or 9mm bolts. Take them out and slip arm rest middle console off hand brake. take flat head screw driver to unseat metal bracket around sensor. All this should take about 30 minutes total. I just did it on friday. No ESP/BAS light on. It solved my problem.
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#4 Old 08-18-2015
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I just started having the same symptoms yesterday. I have access to a MB Star system -- only issue given was infeasable reading for B34/1 brake pressure sensor. It was not returning to zero bar when brake system pressure returned to zero (no pressure on brake pedal).

The sensor reading was increasing as expected with increasing pedal pressure but the zero point was about reading 15 bar. So far I have cleaned the connector at the sensor with electrical cleaner and rechecked the readings -- seem normal now. B34/1 and B34/2 pressure readings track well. I will go for a longer drive today to confirm longevity of the repair.

This system has many inputs with only a generic "warning light". You may need more info than a generic code scanner can give to do a proper diagnosis.

Chuck

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#5 Old 08-19-2015
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Originally Posted by Joeb77 View Post
It starts out intermitent, then gets worse. I invested in a OBD II scanner and read the code. I replaced the ESP sensor in the middle arm rest. Sensor is about $130. Take off grip on hand brake. pop plate around shifter. Two screws under shifter plate. Need to un-bolt back of arm rest. This is located in the compartment in the rear. I think 8mm or 9mm bolts. Take them out and slip arm rest middle console off hand brake. take flat head screw driver to unseat metal bracket around sensor. All this should take about 30 minutes total. I just did it on friday. No ESP/BAS light on. It solved my problem.
Did your scanner indicate that specific sensor? Can you give me a link to that scanner? I've got an intermittent ESP light issue - replaced brake sensor - no change. I'm thinking either the sensor in center console or one of the wheels, but am hopeful in finding a cheap way to get more info - I thought only the really expensive OBD scanners would be specific?
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#6 Old 08-20-2015
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Originally Posted by ki5yk View Post
I just started having the same symptoms yesterday. I have access to a MB Star system -- only issue given was infeasable reading for B34/1 brake pressure sensor. It was not returning to zero bar when brake system pressure returned to zero (no pressure on brake pedal).

The sensor reading was increasing as expected with increasing pedal pressure but the zero point was about reading 15 bar. So far I have cleaned the connector at the sensor with electrical cleaner and rechecked the readings -- seem normal now. B34/1 and B34/2 pressure readings track well. I will go for a longer drive today to confirm longevity of the repair.

This system has many inputs with only a generic "warning light". You may need more info than a generic code scanner can give to do a proper diagnosis.

Chuck

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2003 S600
Hi Chuck

Thanks for the post. Where is the brake pressure sensor located? Its worth a look for me.

Hope it cures yours

John
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#7 Old 08-20-2015
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On the 2003's there are two pressure sensors both located on the brake master cylinder. Relatively easy to get to. B34/1 is on the side and B34/2 is on the front bottom portion of the assembly. Pressure sensors are the brass colored items.

Regards,

Chuck
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#8 Old 08-20-2015
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If you have a volt meter check your battery 1, when you have finished driving, 2 next morning before starting .

A reading of 12..7 at the end of the days driving means the battery is fully charged , if its 12.3 or near the next morning then your battery could be on its way out.
This causes all sorts of problems with the cars electrics as it measures voltage to control esp etc, fan and aircon,
Could be the sensors, but check the battery
Regards Stuart.
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#9 Old 08-21-2015
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Hi


Starting to get the bas esp light too. grrrr . The car is in use daily and do not get any lights in the morning but on the way home I get the bas/esp light in traffic and it stays on till I get home. That happened twice. but since that it hasn't come on again but now I seem to be getting the water light in traffic witch disappears when moving. Could these be related errors or am I looking at two problems. The heat gauge in dash does not seem too bad for temp but changing the main beam bulb I noticed the water reservoir was very hot too. If its any help it takes about 18 minutes to work and about 30- 45 back home . Dam traffic .And road works. 2001- 320 slk if it helps


Cheers for any help given
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#10 Old 08-21-2015
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Originally Posted by BlanPrivate View Post
Hi


Starting to get the bas esp light too. grrrr . The car is in use daily and do not get any lights in the morning but on the way home I get the bas/esp light in traffic and it stays on till I get home. That happened twice. but since that it hasn't come on again but now I seem to be getting the water light in traffic witch disappears when moving. Could these be related errors or am I looking at two problems. The heat gauge in dash does not seem too bad for temp but changing the main beam bulb I noticed the water reservoir was very hot too. If its any help it takes about 18 minutes to work and about 30- 45 back home . Dam traffic .And road works. 2001- 320 slk if it helps


Cheers for any help given
Well, how is your coolant level?

If the BAS light comes on when in traffic, you are using your brake more, so probably brake related.
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#11 Old 08-22-2015
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Hi again
Coolant level fine
Brake fluid level a little over max . Could this be a possible cause of problem !!. Brakes have been checked lately and they are ok. Though disks are a little rusty causing squeals from front brake. They work well enough.
Probably have to get a star test to see what they come up with.
Thanks again
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#12 Old 08-30-2015
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ESP/BAS light problem too

I have the same problem. The ESP/BAS light sometimes comes on after I have driven about 20 milesand made multiple stops. It goes out whenI turn off the car and restart it. However, if I continue to drive it comes on again. If I continue to drive, it will spontaneouslybrake and shake like it is trying to stabilize the car but, in fact, it is un-stabilizingit. My problem is that my mechanic saysthat they cannot diagnose the issue since the light does not stay on and itdoes not show up during the computer diagnostic test. I know that this problem hasbeen discussed multiple times on this site, but there are so many possiblesolutions that it is not helpful. Whatcan I suggest to my mechanic?
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Originally Posted by zoom View Post
I have the same problem. The ESP/BAS light sometimes comes on after I have driven about 20 milesand made multiple stops. It goes out whenI turn off the car and restart it. However, if I continue to drive it comes on again. If I continue to drive, it will spontaneouslybrake and shake like it is trying to stabilize the car but, in fact, it is un-stabilizingit. My problem is that my mechanic saysthat they cannot diagnose the issue since the light does not stay on and itdoes not show up during the computer diagnostic test. I know that this problem hasbeen discussed multiple times on this site, but there are so many possiblesolutions that it is not helpful. Whatcan I suggest to my mechanic?
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#14 Old 08-30-2015
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Hey.... Have been having the intermittent light problem for a couple of months now. Wish someone would compile symptoms and what cured the problem on this elusive subject.
1..Have not had the car do the brake shake thing as I have read about on a couple of threads on this subject. Any thoughts or answers on what this ended up being???
2. Have read that brake lights will quit working indicting brake switch failure. Mine still has brake lights.
3. What happens when the wheel sensors cause the light to go on.
4. What happens when the switch/sensor under the console is bad???


Help on this might just once and for all help folks identify what is wrong with their auto when this light comes on........ Thanks and God bless...... Dennis
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Final update:

Ended up replacing the B34/1 brake system pressure sensor (one that STAR system gave error on). Warning lights have stayed out and BAS/ESP seems to be working as designed. (no more warning lights or error codes)

Very easy fix - 10 minutes.

Chuck
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Final update/solution

I changed the ESP/BAS control module and everything seems to be working fine so far. The ESP/BAS light has not come on and the spontaneous breaking has not occurred. I think that solved the problem. And, BTW, it showed up as a code.
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Final fix

That did not fix the problem. I finally replaced the yaw sensor and that does appear to have fixed it. I have driven 10 day now with no spontaneous braking or lights coming on.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ki5yk View Post
Final update:

Ended up replacing the B34/1 brake system pressure sensor (one that STAR system gave error on). Warning lights have stayed out and BAS/ESP seems to be working as designed. (no more warning lights or error codes)

Very easy fix - 10 minutes.

Chuck
This worked for me after a lot of head scratching. the light wouldn't come on when the engine was cold, once it warmed up the light wouold then come on at some point, there was no effect on any systems, car drove fine. had no codes I could see with a basic scanner. replaced one of the sensors (the one on the side) with genuine MB part, light went out, put the old one back, light comes on ! will replace the other switch as a matter of preventative maintenance.
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Quick Question on BAS ESP Light

Hi.
Following an MOT test I have had intermittent BAS/ESP light and very occasional ABS light too. I changed the brake light switch, no difference. Also tried the lock to lock trick many tiomes, also no difference. I then had the codes read (of course the lights all stayed firmly off when I took the car in). Codes recorded were for offside rear sensor and one for steering angle. I suspect something in the MOT test triggered it so either jacking the car and loosening a wire or turning steering rapidly.

So, first step was to check the connections to offside rear wheel sensor. Now, here is my question: If this sensor had failed, would I not get ABS light as well as ESP/BAS? I tried unplugging it and the ABS light comes on too as I would expect. I don't want to change the sensor if this rules it out. I suspect more the steering wheel sensor for the main problem of the BAS/ESP and the code recorded for rear sensor being just for the brief period when the ABS light came on too.
Any info appreciated. Thanks
Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave100 View Post
Hi.
Following an MOT test I have had intermittent BAS/ESP light and very occasional ABS light too. I changed the brake light switch, no difference. Also tried the lock to lock trick many tiomes, also no difference. I then had the codes read (of course the lights all stayed firmly off when I took the car in). Codes recorded were for offside rear sensor and one for steering angle. I suspect something in the MOT test triggered it so either jacking the car and loosening a wire or turning steering rapidly.

So, first step was to check the connections to offside rear wheel sensor. Now, here is my question: If this sensor had failed, would I not get ABS light as well as ESP/BAS? I tried unplugging it and the ABS light comes on too as I would expect. I don't want to change the sensor if this rules it out. I suspect more the steering wheel sensor for the main problem of the BAS/ESP and the code recorded for rear sensor being just for the brief period when the ABS light came on too.
Any info appreciated. Thanks
Dave
Dave, you might want us to move this post to its own thread for maximum exposure

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