Rear Windows Down - Hydraulic Cylinders Out - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 08-05-2015
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Exclamation Rear Windows Down - Hydraulic Cylinders Out

Fellas,

Hoping you can help me out of a jam which is probably my own doing. I had a Hydraulic Cylinder failure (two to be exact) and I pulled them all out last night in order to ship them off to Top Hydraulics for rebuild.

Problem:

In an lazy attempt to unlock the roof I used the Vario Roof button and it rolled down the rear windows.

The issue i that after removing Open Sensor and the all five Hydraulic Cylinders I can't use the Vario Roof button to roll the rear windows back up.

Attempted Solution:

1. Made sure the trunk sensor (cover) was taped / triggered - No Luck
2. Made sure the trunk (cover) and open top sensor was taped / triggered - No Luck

The only other 'potential' solution that I could imagine would be if I had the Hydraulic Cylinders plugged into the Hydraulic Pump. At this point I have them nice and cleaned packed up for shipping but I didn't want to rip them out and hook them up for no reason since I'm troubleshooting blind here.

I've looked at other articles (none with my specific problem) and I've seen some R171 owners suggest pulling the battery (I guess that kicks off a windows up on a R171).

Does anyone know exactly what I need to have connected in order to get the rear windows up?

1999 SLK230 and the windows have always worked perfectly so I assume it just that my car is in a quasi operable state that causing the problem.

Sincerely,

Biv
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#2 Old 08-05-2015
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I'll be watching this. I have the opposite problem my windows are up and won't go down (top doesn't work, has at least one cylinder leaking). I have all the panels out and I'll be working on it as the weather and time permits.
When I figure everything out I'll be posting it.
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#3 Old 08-05-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt1092 View Post
I'll be watching this. I have the opposite problem my windows are up and won't go down (top doesn't work, has at least one cylinder leaking). I have all the panels out and I'll be working on it as the weather and time permits.
When I figure everything out I'll be posting it.
Sounds identical just the position of the windows when they stopped working.

Pelican Rear Window Removal

I wonder if the following carefully worded statement on the pelican URL above provides some insight into my problem.

"When replacing the glass, regulator and/or motor, make sure that the window is reinstalled in the down position. (Use a battery charger or other 12-volt source on the motor's pigtail pins to lower the glass if necessary.) Otherwise, the roof will be out of sync with the replacement window: creating a new problem in the process of solving another."

When you think about it I lowered the window, manually lowered the top, removed the all the hydraulics and then raised the top followed with locking it.

In theory I pretty much left it the way it was when I lowered the roof...however I'm not sure if the Vario Roof feels the same way about it as I do.

BTW, I threw all the hydraulic's in the trunk after re-attaching them to the pump and got no love on raising the windows. I will say that the Vario Roof button was glowing and became hot just like I was raising/lowering the roof but obviously nothing was happening.

Hopefully I'm not making things any worse.

Biv
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#4 Old 08-05-2015
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When I realized I had done this (leaving the rear-quarters down when I pulled the cylinders out) the only way I could cheat the system was to temporarily hook the hydraulic lines back up with the cylinders lying in the trunk. Then I let the system cycle which raised the windows.


I wish I had an easier way for you.

Last edited by lilred320SLK; 08-06-2015 at 12:10 PM.
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#5 Old 08-06-2015
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Originally Posted by lilred320SLK View Post
When I realized I had done this (leaving the rear-quarters down when I pulled the cylinders out) the only why I could cheat the system was to temporarily hook the hydraulic lines back up with the cylinders lying in the trunk. Then I let the system cycle which raised the windows.
Yeah, I did this last night and it didn't seem to work, meaning the rear quarters didn't go back up. I could hear the hydraulics (pump and cylinders) moving around in the trunk but didn't get any love from the Windows. I was wondering if a sensor might of been jacking up the cycle but based on your feedback I should of gotten a similar result.

I'm thinking I might just shut down the troubleshooting until I get the Hydraulics rebuilt and then move towards the re-installation. Don't want to delay the rebuild since it should be ~10 day turnaround time.

Biv
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#6 Old 08-06-2015
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It is a sensor issue I believe. The system has to think it is fully closed before it will roll the windows up.

So here are all the switches that must be activated

Top Locked

Roof Closed Limit Switch

Electrical Schematic

Trunk Lid Closed

Roof Closed Limit Switch

Make sure the top is locked and all 3 trunk points are locked. That should do it.
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#7 Old 08-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BivDog View Post
. . . . I'm thinking I might just shut down the troubleshooting until I get the Hydraulics rebuilt and then move towards the re-installation. Don't want to delay the rebuild since it should be ~10 day turnaround time. . . . .
The only other thing I could suggest is that the system sequence seems to be a little sensitive to which way it was heading, So I would hope you would have tried working the switch both ways. (This will be true when you remount the cylinders as well.) Probably not worth worrying about at this point. I was driving mine daily so I needed to have the windows up or I would have had to cover them in plastic.

I was really pleased by the work TH did. (Perhaps you read one of my posts on that from a couple years ago when I had them rebuild all of mine.) If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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#8 Old 08-06-2015
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Thanks Ichris. My roof closed switches were open because the trunk lid could be lifted by hand in the front at any time. It wasn't locking. When I drove it would beep and flash for a while then stop till I went over a bump.
I have loosened them up and have the drivers side locking will go out and work on the pass side today.
I'm beginning to wonder if the truck lid was replaced and not lined up perfectly?
When I bought the car the guy had to push on the corners of the trunk to get the windows down. And the top didn't work, we had to put it down manually.
I'll get it right, but this weather 95+ degrees (. And my garage isn't cooled.
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#9 Old 08-07-2015
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Originally Posted by rt1092 View Post
Thanks Ichris. My roof closed switches were open because the trunk lid could be lifted by hand in the front at any time. It wasn't locking. When I drove it would beep and flash for a while then stop till I went over a bump.
I have loosened them up and have the drivers side locking will go out and work on the pass side today.
I'm beginning to wonder if the truck lid was replaced and not lined up perfectly?
When I bought the car the guy had to push on the corners of the trunk to get the windows down. And the top didn't work, we had to put it down manually.
I'll get it right, but this weather 95+ degrees (. And my garage isn't cooled.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rt1092 View Post
top doesn't work, has at least one cylinder leaking
I think the issue here is that you are not building up enough pressure because of the cylinders leaking and therefore it does not pull down hard enough to lock and therefore requires pushing down.
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#10 Old 08-08-2015
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I pulled off the rear cylinders and see what you meant about the cylinder not pulling far enough to lock the lock and activate the switch in the pass side. The rear windows went up and down, I held on to the switch. The locking mecanism on the top near the windshield opened, trunk lid lifted (very slowly) then it quit.
It would not. So far I haven't found any leaks The reservoir on the hydraulic motor didn't lose any fluid. Can the cylinders be bad without showing a leak?
It got to hot in the garage to continue but. In the morning I plan to put the top down manually and try it the other way.
I noticed an adjustment in the unlocking cables. Should I adjust them? When I take the cables off the front of the trunk locks.
Thanks
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#11 Old 08-09-2015
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Rt,

I'm confused, you don't have a leak? Then almost certainly you have a switch issue.
Then, if you've closed your roof manually, and done so fully, and all your switches are working, your rear windows should drop as soon as you pull the switch back.

Keep in mind " roof closed" and " boot lid closed" are separate switches. Former is one switch in the A Pillar. Latter is two switches in series atop the rear wheel wells.

The Bowden cables in the leading edge of the roof should only be adjusted if the roof and window won't fold back against each other (I.E. the roof cylinders try to store the roof but can't.
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#12 Old 08-09-2015
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Some quick clarity

Quote:
Originally Posted by efair View Post
I'm confused, you don't have a leak? Then almost certainly you have a switch issue.
I originally posted the thread, rt1092 is piggy backing on it due to a similar issue with his rear windows. Mine rear windows are down and won't go up, RT's are up and won't go down. I have the hydraulic cylinder issue (now sent to TH) and RT's apparently looks like front sensor locking issue.

Hopefully that clears up the confusion.

BTW, I love the link to all the sensors. I had seen some other posts about the sensors but I wasn't sure which was which. This might allow me to at least get the sensor's cleared.

Biv
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#13 Old 08-09-2015
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Some quick clarity

Quote:
Originally Posted by efair View Post
I'm confused, you don't have a leak? Then almost certainly you have a switch issue.
I originally posted the thread, rt1092 is piggy backing on it due to a similar issue with his rear windows. My rear windows are down and won't go up, RT's are up and won't go down. I have the hydraulic cylinder issue (now sent to TH) and RT's apparently looks like front sensor locking issue.

Hopefully that clears up the confusion.

BTW, I love the links to all the sensors. I had seen some other posts about the sensors but I wasn't sure which was which. This might allow me to at least get the sensor's cleared.

Biv
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#14 Old 08-09-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BivDog View Post
I originally posted the thread, rt1092 is piggy backing on it due to a similar issue with his rear windows. My rear windows are down and won't go up, RT's are up and won't go down. I have the hydraulic cylinder issue (now sent to TH) and RT's apparently looks like front sensor locking issue.

Hopefully that clears up the confusion.

BTW, I love the links to all the sensors. I had seen some other posts about the sensors but I wasn't sure which was which. This might allow me to at least get the sensor's cleared.

Biv
Hi BivDog. I had the same problem with my rear windows not working. That's why I jumped in the thread. I found that my problem (with the windows) seemed to be the microswitch/locks on the front of the trunk/boot lid. When the trunk/boot lid is locked in the front, the windows work using the vario roof button. If I unlock them they will not. There seems to be a microswitch in the pass side lock.
If I can lift the front of the trunk/boot lid by hand. My windows will not work, I still have problems with my cylinders ( I think). But I hope at least I can operate the top manually and be able to close the rear windows if I get caught in a rain.
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