My R170 Progress Thread - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 07-27-2015
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My R170 Progress Thread

Hi

Just joined the forum, amazing amount of information here which is great. I posted an intro thread here which explains how I got the car. This thread is really a keepsake for me, for all my progress on the SLK.

So on to the car. It's a 1999 230k in Sunburst Yellow. No idea on options but I'll get my VIN today and request a datacard. The car has done just over 80k miles and mechanically seems in excellent condition.

Jobs to be carried out first:
  • Replace front discs/pads
  • Replace drivers wing mirror glass
  • Sort out parcel shelf rattle
  • Replace stereo with BT version or maybe full screen for Nav
  • Fix nearside headlight as it has bad condensation (new seal maybe?)
  • Replace exhaust tip - Painted OEM Black
  • Repair bootlid where clearcoat is damaged
  • Repaint interior centre console/door handles with Volico
  • Full interior detail, wet vac carpets/mats, clean leather etc..
  • Check/replace pollen filter
  • Full exterior detail, wash, clay, machine polish, seal, wax etc..
  • Clean all hood joints, regrease, gummi pfledge all seals
  • Replace boot struts
  • Full engine bay detail
Mods I'd like to do in the future
  • Replace headlights for HID's
  • Replace tail lights with LED smoked versions
  • Replace grill - Replaced emblem instead
  • Smart Top
  • Tint rear window
  • Remove, clean, paint and refit all calipers
  • LED interior lights
  • Boot Spoiler


So quite a list. I've found a replacement boot lid in yellow on eBay so if my repair doesn't work, I'll get that and fit it instead.


Photos to follows with lots of befores and progress updates


Cheers

Andy

Last edited by Andy Thilo; 09-30-2015 at 12:51 PM.
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#2 Old 07-27-2015
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Well that should keep you busy for a while. Do you know how long ago, or "if" the top hydraulic seals have been replaced? You might want to add checking them for leaks, or checking the fluid level - to your list of things to do.

Also good to know the age of the tires on the car...

FWIW,
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#3 Old 07-27-2015
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Enjoy your new car and the satisfaction of checking the item off your list when accomplished. Post to this thread as you progress:

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...slk-today.html

Tim
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#4 Old 07-27-2015
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You will be very busy..... Hope to see pictures as things get done.



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#5 Old 07-27-2015
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Well that was a traumatic day. Decided to check the rubbers that stop the rear shelf from rattling. Ignition on, took the roof back and left it up. God knows what happened after that but it wouldn't move again. Turned the ignition off and the roof section sank back onto the windscreen. Read the manual and it stated wait 7 mins and the roof will drop itself. 7 mins passed, car started beeping to warn of the roof moving, never happened. Tried loads of things but was left with the roof back up, boot down but little side windows also down. Manually locked the roof onto the windscreen using the allen bolt. Then I was able to close it all properly, side windows came up. However, now it won't go down, you can hear the pump working but nothing happens.

At least it's watertight now, got it booked into a local garage who have the full diagnostics for the car and the guy there has done one of these before, believes it just needs the fault codes resetting to 'reset' the roof.

So that was today, nothing else done LOL. Not even photos as my phone is knackered as well . Ho hum!
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#6 Old 07-28-2015
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Also add to your list, clean all 6 drain point holes out at least once a year
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#7 Old 07-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Thilo View Post
Well that was a traumatic day. Decided to check the rubbers that stop the rear shelf from rattling. Ignition on, took the roof back and left it up. God knows what happened after that but it wouldn't move again. Turned the ignition off and the roof section sank back onto the windscreen. Read the manual and it stated wait 7 mins and the roof will drop itself. 7 mins passed, car started beeping to warn of the roof moving, never happened. Tried loads of things but was left with the roof back up, boot down but little side windows also down. Manually locked the roof onto the windscreen using the allen bolt. Then I was able to close it all properly, side windows came up. However, now it won't go down, you can hear the pump working but nothing happens.

At least it's watertight now, got it booked into a local garage who have the full diagnostics for the car and the guy there has done one of these before, believes it just needs the fault codes resetting to 'reset' the roof.

So that was today, nothing else done LOL. Not even photos as my phone is knackered as well . Ho hum!
I'm not positive, but don't think the roof would generate a code that they could clear to get it working again. The hydraulic cylinders are known to fail. Do you see any fluid or residue on your headliner? That is a common cylinder that fails/leaks. The prior owner had redone that one in ours, but one (of 2) of our trunk cylinders failed shortly after we purchased it. There is a drain behind the rear wheels where I saw the fluid from ours. The final 2 of the 5 cylinders that operate the roof are on each side where the roof hinges when retracting.

The cylinders can be rebuilt and in the states a set of seals and instructions can be purchased for about $20

Good luck.

Tim
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#8 Old 07-28-2015
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Originally Posted by El_Toro_33809 View Post
I'm not positive, but don't think the roof would generate a code that they could clear to get it working again. The hydraulic cylinders are known to fail. Do you see any fluid or residue on your headliner? That is a common cylinder that fails/leaks. The prior owner had redone that one in ours, but one (of 2) of our trunk cylinders failed shortly after we purchased it. There is a drain behind the rear wheels where I saw the fluid from ours. The final 2 of the 5 cylinders that operate the roof are on each side where the roof hinges when retracting.

The cylinders can be rebuilt and in the states a set of seals and instructions can be purchased for about $20

Good luck.

Tim
Panic over friends . Went out to collect a replacement boot lid today (in yellow ). When I came back, I thought I'd just try the roof again. What'd ya know, whirr, clunk and down it went. No fuss, no issues. Cycled it twice, all back to normal! Thank God .

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#9 Old 07-28-2015
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Originally Posted by Andy Thilo View Post
Panic over friends . Went out to collect a replacement boot lid today (in yellow ). When I came back, I thought I'd just try the roof again. What'd ya know, whirr, clunk and down it went. No fuss, no issues. Cycled it twice, all back to normal! Thank God .

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Glad that it is working. Keep an eye on those cylinders and check the fluid in the pump. It is in the trunk behind the paneling in back of the right rear wheel.
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#10 Old 07-28-2015
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Glad that it is working. Keep an eye on those cylinders and check the fluid in the pump. It is in the trunk behind the paneling in back of the right rear wheel.
Hi, will do. Checked and the fluid container is full so hopefully no leaks.
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#11 Old 07-28-2015
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Today's update

Haven't really taken any photos of the car yet, but here's a one outside and one inside. This is before it's been touched.





So other than the roof working again which is a HUGE relief, I took a trip to a car breakers. They'd listed a yellow boot from a pre facelift R170 and it looked great. When I got there, they cleaned it up for me to see the paintwork, and it really looked in good condition. A few very small chips that will need touch up but that's all. So I handed over 80 and put it in the car. While I was there, I enquired about a grill. Although they didn't have one in good condition, they did have a broken one with the emblem in good condition. So handed over another 10 and came home.

Here's the issue with the boot lid, clearcoat is peeling off in spades



Boot post claying. The 'S' of the rear badge fell off, so I took the lot off. Residue was removed with a lot of elbow grease and tar/glue remover.





The boot was taken in garage and given a thorough clean with APC (both sides). Wiped down again and clayed the paint. LOTS of contaminants removed and the paint was left very clean and smooth. Then I machine polished it with a Megs 6" MF cutting pad and Megs correction compound. This left a fantastic finish. Finally a quick coat of Megs wax and finished.





So that's all finished ready to put on the car, all existing parts will be moved over to the new boot lid. Hope it's not too hard LOL.

With the emblem removed from the newly obtained grill, I cleaned it again with APC, then gave it a quick polish. Took the old one off the car, popped the new one on. Much better

Old tarnished on the left, new fitted on the right



Next the wing mirror. My drivers mirror was at some point a working dimming/heated mirror. However the dimming part had failed allowing the fluid to leak. Quite a mess and almost impossible to see out of. So followed the instructions on here and popped it off:



The new mirror is heated only and has 2 tags to fit crimp connectors to. The original however has a 4 pin connector. I metered the old mirror and pretty sure that I know the pins for the heating as they read 4 ohms. The other pins go to wires that attached to an element for the dimming (I think) . Anyway, new mirror is on and I can finally see



So that's it for today. Plan tomorrow is to get the bootlid fitted although I'm waiting on my socket drive torx and hex bits so can't do it till they arrive. Got to order some touch up paint and some rust killer for the arches.
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#12 Old 07-28-2015
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Great looking car. Love the yellow accents on the inside. Need an Apple watch with yellow hands to compliment.



Need to get going to my 2 o'clock meeting!
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#13 Old 07-28-2015
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Love the photos. Thanks for adding them.

Tim
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#14 Old 07-29-2015
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Todays update:

Front headlight - The passenger side was full of water. So obviously the seal had failed. New seal is quite expensive so time to make good use of my spare old tube of black sikaflex. Sikaflex is a marine grade sealant and it's the worst stuff in the world to use. It is SO sticky that you never want to get it anywhere you don't want.

So headlight out and stripped down. The seal between the lense and the casing was indeed knackered. Most of it fell apart. So I cleaned it all out and dried out and cleaned the headlight. Nice big thick amount of sikaflex in the groove where the seal was and put it back together. I had to nip up the clips so they clipped on well as before the seal would have taken up more room. I also make sure the little drain hole at the back was cleared so air could circulate. Unfortunately I was so busy working on it, I forgot to take pictures apart from the finished product. Oh I also machine polished the lens and indicator.



Next up the boot. Decided to clean it out completely, check everything over, hoover/clean carpets.

Before:





After



Next was roof seals and the rear shelf rattle. I purchased some gummi pfledge and some 10mm x 10mm sticky back foam. This time I got the roof up in the mid position properly and didn't screw it all up again . No more rattle and seals are nice and lubed all round. Barely any noises now from the car which is nice. No pics again but you all know about lubing seals!.
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#15 Old 07-29-2015
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Last update for today.

Gave the inside a clean, apart from dash/centre console as that will be stripped completely for painting and will be thoroughly cleaned then. Leather seat were scrubbed with leather cleaner, then conditioned. Steering wheel was cleaned with Dr Leather wipes. The amount of muck that came off the wheel was incredible. At first I thought I was taking off colour, but doing the bottom showed much less muck. I went through about 10 wipes just on the wheel and it's still not completely clean. Far better than it was and no longer shiny and horrible. Also cleaned the gear stick. Also received the new boot struts so popped them on, massive difference, now the boot opens with ease and stays open at any angle.

Carpets were vacuumed and mats wet vac'd.

Seats post clean/condition, not bad for 16 year old leather. Slight tear on the right side bolster.



Steering wheel before and after





And finally the pile of wipes from just the steering wheel



So tomorrow hopefully my torx bits will arrive and I can swap the boot lids. I've taken the wiring loom out of the new one as it was tatty so plan will be to use the loom on the car.
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#16 Old 07-30-2015
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Engine bay clean - Decided as I'm still waiting for my torx drivers for the boot, and clay for the paint, I'd tackle the engine bay.

It wasn't too bad but needed a clean up. Took out both headlights and grill and then set to with some gunk, a stiff brush and the hose. I never use a pressure washer, it's just not needed.

Before:








After:





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#17 Old 07-30-2015
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question from a numpty
I to have peeling clearcoat and need to do it up, does the claying remove the clearcoat?or do you sand it all down first?
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question from a numpty
I to have peeling clearcoat and need to do it up, does the claying remove the clearcoat?or do you sand it all down first?
Hi

Claying is part of the cleaning process. You use clay to remove bonded contaminants from the paints surface. You shouldn't clay over damaged paint.

If your clearcoat has failed, repair will depend on how big the area is. My boot had massive amounts of clear missing, and sanding it just took even more big chunks out. Clearly a poor respray by the previous owner. The only option would have been a full repspray. Getting a replacement boot lid for 80
that had good paint was, in my case, the most cost effective solution.
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#19 Old 07-31-2015
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Todays jobs (getting tired LOL, need the weekend off)

Exterior detail. First job was clean the wheels using Megs Wheel Brightner. Used a long wheel brush, lug nut brush and my wheel MF wash mitt. Wheels are in pretty good condition, looks like they've been repainted at some point. Tyres were scrubbed with APC, rears need 3 goes to get all the crap out, but all looking nice and clean and black now. They will be dressed later after the bodywork is finished.

Then bathed the car in a mixture of snow foam and APC through my foam lance. Left to dwell for 5 mins, rinsed off and given a thorough hand wash using Megs Shampoo and a MF wash mitt. Then car was treated with IronX (a LOT of iron contamination), then each panel checked and cleaned with Tardis (tar/glue) remover. Once washed again and dried, I cleaned up the 'kompressor' badges, behind the fuel door and door shuts.

So paintwork is now clean and ready for claying (hopefully it'll turn up today). Once it's clayed, I'll be doing some paint repairs with my Chipex kit that's coming today. Once that's done, machine polish time (probably tomorrow). After the machine polish i'll be applying Menzerna power lock sealant followed by a coat of Megs wax. Glass will be clayed and polished, and sealed (outside glass only, no wax).

Taking off the side repeaters to clean behind, one of them fell apart, so a bit of epoxy glue around the edge and it's back together. Need to replace the bulbs though as the orange tint is flaking off. Photos to follow.
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Oh, also ordered a new stereo. The JVC one in there is ok, but I want one with bluetooth for hands free and audio streaming. Got a good deal from Amazon on a Blaupunkt Helsinki 220BT for 48 delivered. It's apparently used but in excellent condition via their warehouse scheme.

https://www.slkworld.com/attachment.p...214994&thumb=1
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