Top Help?? - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 07-12-2015
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Top Help??

This is a "new" to me car We put the top down manually. Then after getting it home I put the top up manually and got the rear windows to close.
Now I can't get the top down, even manually. I rebuilt the cylinder in the top. I can't get the rear windows to go down. The red light blinks when I push it back. No motor sounds. When I push it forward the motor comes on for a few seconds then the light blinks.
When I tried to manually put it down. I unscrewed the pressure relief. I released the latch from inside. Pulled the wire cable to release the trunk lid, opened the trunk tilted and latched it. But the top doesn't move.
I think it has something to do with the rear windows being up. How can I get them down?
Won't be working on the car till next weekend. So I won't be replying fast.
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#2 Old 07-12-2015
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Hi
Do the front windows go down when pushing switch?.
And a silly idea that might be your problem if u are very new to these cars are u pulling out the luggage cover in the boot before u operate switch. I myself did not know this when I started to look for an slk.
Hope it is that simple .
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#3 Old 07-12-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlanPrivate View Post
Hi
Do the front windows go down when pushing switch?.
And a silly idea that might be your problem if u are very new to these cars are u pulling out the luggage cover in the boot before u operate switch. I myself did not know this when I started to look for an slk.
Hope it is that simple .
Hi. Yes I pulled out the luggage cover. I would never have know it but I read it here. And yes the front windows work fine, What I don't understand is why I can't open it manually? And why the back windows don'y go down.
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#4 Old 07-13-2015
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Okay. Here is my thought. Your top will not open manually without the rear windows going down. Your rear windows will not go down because your top is not in a state where the rear windows would go down so the system is "lost".

First start everything as if it were locked. Pull the luggage cover over, close the trunk, make sure the two side latches on the trunk are latched, lock the top cylinder. Now if everything is latched (make sure you get the two side latches on the trunk) hold the open button. The rear windows should drop down and if you had a working system it should open the top.
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#5 Old 07-13-2015
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There is no physical/mechanical linkage that I know of between the roof and windows. Only logical.

Question: when you unlatched the roof with the Allen key did you turn far enough to pull the cables that break the hinges? If you don't do that the roof/window stays rigid and won't fold.
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#6 Old 07-19-2015
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I believe the locking mechanism that is operated by the cables in the trunk are not operating properly. When I pull them I don't feel anything becoming unlatched. I pretty sure that if that is in the locked position I can't manually put the top down. I don't know how hard I can pull on the cables before I damage something.
I want to rebuild all the cylinders (so far I've just did the top one).
And want to remove the panels in the trunk. So I can get in there and work on it.
I understand the top must be halfway open to remove the panels.
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#7 Old 07-20-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt1092 View Post
I believe the locking mechanism that is operated by the cables in the trunk are not operating properly. When I pull them I don't feel anything becoming unlatched. I pretty sure that if that is in the locked position I can't manually put the top down. I don't know how hard I can pull on the cables before I damage something.
I want to rebuild all the cylinders (so far I've just did the top one).
And want to remove the panels in the trunk. So I can get in there and work on it.
I understand the top must be halfway open to remove the panels.
You don't feel anything becoming unlatched. Release the pressure on the system and the trunk should open like it does when the top is coming down.
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#8 Old 07-20-2015
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The only thing I'll add to your manual opening ordeal is this:

There are two outboard hinges between the roof and the rear window, and these hinges include a sliding mechanism that "releases" and "seizes" the hinges. If the hinges are not released you won't be able to open the roof manually. It will move back a few centimeters from the windshield but no more.

The sliding mechanisms are operated by two Bowden cables that are attached to the two rotary latches (not the same cables as the boot lid release). A spring counter-balances the mechanism; you can see these mechanisms (especially the springs) clearly by looking up into the hinge areas - even with the headliner in place.

When you turn your Allen key manually to unlatch your roof, you need to turn it slightly past where the latches fully unlatch - to pull the cables and release the hinges. You might need to use 2x the force to cause them to release. You might also want to give the mechanism some lithium grease if you haven't recently.

-----------------

On your boot lid release cables, my experience has been you can't feel any action -- the only way to know you've released those latches is by actually trying to tip the boot lid backwards. Try doing it with a helper and with the trunk open. Hint: use a wood or plastic shim to keep those latches from re-engaging.

----------------

Also my experience: the switches to monitor the roof movement get sticky with age, and stick open and closed -- causing all manner of odd failures. My most recent experience: *both* switches in the roof latches were sticking closed. You could tap on the corner of the roof and it would un-stick for a few cycles, then stick again.
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#9 Old 07-22-2015
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efair - YOU DA REAL MVP. Man, your explanation here just helped me get the top down on my SLK 320. Freakin' SWEET. Thanks.
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#10 Old 08-02-2015
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Got all the trunk panels out. So I can get to everything. (I still have to get the microswitch off the pass side panel, want to be careful and diminishing light and an abundance of heat caused a work stoppage).
One thing I can see is that there is hydraulic fluid on the inside of the back window. Seems it gets there when I put the top down. Guess that means a fluid leak. Haven't tried to find out where it is coming from yet.
Any ideas?
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#11 Old 08-02-2015
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#12 Old 08-02-2015
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Almost certainly the roof cylinder is leaking. It's pretty easy to take the cover off so you can see those cylinders - near the seatbelt reel. On a pre- FL you'll need a small torx and a few wrenches. There's a hidden screw you can see if you look where the seatbelt disappears. I suggest a magnet so you don't drop that one nut in the back.

Rebuilding the roof cylinders is similar to the latch cylinder but requires more holding power to remove the yoke.
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#13 Old 08-02-2015
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Thanks. I've got that printed and will be following that as I try to trouble shoot.
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