Removed Top main hydraulic cylinders - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 06-27-2015
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Thumbs up Removed Top main hydraulic cylinders

I finally removed the main cylinders and sent them off for repair. I couldn't find any step by step instructions so I just worked through it visually. Because of the way the top and boot movements interfere with access To all the parts, I had to work by trial and error. It was not an intuitive process. No special hand tools were required, only a 1/4" drive socket set and a screwdriver with multiple bits. The only problem was I lost a special brass nut behind the fuel tank cover. It fell out of the plastic cover that goes over the cylinder, which the seat belt passes through. I don't know if the nut is available from MB and I don't really want to take the big metal cover off the tank to look for it. It's a minor problem overall. I will be glad to have the top working again soon!
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#2 Old 06-27-2015
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I'll give you a hint for when you reinstall it (I just learned this trick today).

Each cylinder is affixed by one long pin in the front and one short pin in the rear. Note these pins are not the same diameter either.

The short rear pin attaches the yoke of the cylinder to two independent steel levers, each with holes in them. Reinstalling this pin requires you to align the yoke and both of these steel members, which requires three hands to do!

Before you start, cut a half inch length from a wood dowel. In my case I used a 3/8 diameter dowel, but any diameter is OK as long as the diameter is less than or equal to the diameter of the short pin.
- assumption is the relief valve is open and key is off
- prop the roof halfway open with John's broomstick
- push the shaft into the cylinder as far as possible and fit the cylinder loosely into place.
- install the front pin.
- close the roof
- use the dowel to join the two steel levers together
- pull the yoke out of the cylindet until the holes align
- insert the pin, pushing the dowel out as you do.

Hth!
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#3 Old 07-03-2015
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Talking

Kudos to Top Hydraulics! Turn around time was exactly one week including shipping time. They must have had rebuilt units in stock. Top down driving with the push of a button is within sight finally.
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#4 Old 07-05-2015
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Unhappy

The cylinders are installed but the boot will not cycle open If I manually operate the boot open it will finish the closing cycle and put up the rear windows. Starting the cycle rolls down the windows but he boot just won't pivot up. Something must have happened during disassembly, which now I have to fix
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#5 Old 07-05-2015
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Did you disconnect any of the other lines from the pump? Maybe you've crossed them up.

Is the light off and pump running?
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#6 Old 07-05-2015
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I didn't remove any of the other lines, and I double and tripple checked the numbers on the lines and the pump. The pump runs in both directions of the switch. After some reading I though it might be the relay on the pump but I don't think it's the problem. Something is preventing the boot from tipping back, like it's not free to move even though the pump is running after the rear windows go down.


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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Did you disconnect any of the other lines from the pump? Maybe you've crossed them up.

Is the light off and pump running?
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#7 Old 07-05-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepherd15 View Post
The cylinders are installed but the boot will not cycle open If I manually operate the boot open it will finish the closing cycle and put up the rear windows. Starting the cycle rolls down the windows but he boot just won't pivot up. Something must have happened during disassembly, which now I have to fix
We have worked on a number of roofs, and on each one we have had to run it through the cycle manually a few times before the system "self bled" and would operate on its own. Finally it will work by itself. I haven't heard of anyone else mention having to do this, but we have every time. Be persistent and good luck.

Tim
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