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#1 Old 05-17-2010
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New Member/P0105 and P1516 Code Problems

Hello Everyone,

Within the last month, I've replaced the MAF, throttle body and the cam solenoid trying to clear the persistant P0105 and P1516 codes on my 1998 SLK 230. I hope that someone has had these codes before and knows what's really causing them. I've taken live readings with my OBDII, but sadly, I don't have them with me at the time of this post.

HELP! KEN
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#2 Old 05-17-2010
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Hi from london, sorry can't realy help with your problem, but as you'll find there are plenty of peeps on here who will hopefully be able to help

Hope you get it sorted!
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#3 Old 05-17-2010
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Welcome from Valrico, Florida!
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#4 Old 05-17-2010
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Welcome from Portland, Oregon.
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#5 Old 05-17-2010
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Welcome from Atlanta! You may also try the Ask DansSLK section for help and try the search feature of the site to see if others before you have had the answer.
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#6 Old 05-19-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tellpathic2 View Post
Hello Everyone,

Within the last month, I've replaced the MAF, throttle body and the cam solenoid trying to clear the persistant P0105 and P1516 codes on my 1998 SLK 230. I hope that someone has had these codes before and knows what's really causing them. I've taken live readings with my OBDII, but sadly, I don't have them with me at the time of this post.

HELP! KEN
p1516 is throttle position issue, try and reset the throttle body. Turn key to pos. 2, hold gas pedal to floor for 30 seconds, turn key back 0 and let off pedal. The p0105 sounds like a vaccum leak, check all rubber/plastic lines for cracks or rot and replace.
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#7 Old 05-20-2010
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livefreeordie,

Thanks for the suggestion! Yesterday, I talked myself into inspecting the K40 relay. As a result of that, I had to removed the negative lead from the battery, and that cleared the computer. Of course, I reattached the negative lead later. The K40 relay was fairly new. Someone had been there before me. I also brought out the original MAF (Bosch), cleaned it with contact cleaner and reinstalled it in the car. As one would expect, as I started the engine, the computer immediately started relearning and the idle fluctuated between 1300 and 700 rpms searching for its happy medium. After a warm up period (fairly steady idle at 750 rpms), I took it for a ride. It started out sluggish under 2000 rpms, but quickly came around to fairly zippy after a few stop/starts. In the other rpm ranges, it seemed steady and confident. This means that it ran a hell of a lot better. I parked it in the garage and didn't check for lingering codes. That's just one trip. If P1516 comes up again, I'll try the accelerator method described by livefreeordie. I don't know what the explanation is yet for the turn-around in performance,i.e., the cleaning of the original MAF or the clearing of the codes by disconnecting the battery. If disconnecting the battery was the answer, that doesn't say much for my OBDII reader's ability to clear the codes. I'll know soon if any of what I did accomplished anything on the car's next trip.
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#8 Old 05-21-2010
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Well, here we are again with an update on the two codes P0105 and P1516. Today, I found a air leak in the worst possible place, the MAP. The MAP controls the timing and fuel injection by the differential air pressure at the MAP. The sensor line from the air pump switchover valve was broken just below the MAP and hidden from view. I fixed this sensor line by cutting it back about 2 inches in the middle. Fortunately, I have about 10 ft of 5mm hard line and placed it in the middle of the cut sensor line. So far, this has been the fix for both the P0105 and P1516. It hasn't thrown any codes yet, but I'm still going to keep up the "drive cycles" to make sure.
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#9 Old 05-22-2010
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Congrats on the fix.
Best of luck.


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#10 Old 05-22-2010
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Good job, glad your up and rinning
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#11 Old 05-26-2010
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Yesterday, after a 55 mph drive cycle for 5 minutes with the cruise control on or 100 mile drive (I don't know which made it "ready", they coincided.), it passed with flying colors at the emissions station. This was just in time. My registration would have expired at the end of the week. Let's recap here, so others may understand without have to read this entire thread again. The P0105 was caused by a massive air leak just under the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) sensor; not the MAF (Mass Air Flow). This leak was caused by a tear in the vacuum/pressure hose (5mm inside diameter) to the MAP. This vacuum/pressure loss to the MAP sensor caused the P1516 code problem to the camshaft adjustment solenoid (logic, duh!). After clearing these codes with a OBDII, I drove it at varying speeds to get the computer to adjust to the way that I drive. Then, I put the computer through several "drive cycles" at 55mph with the cruise control on to make the computer "ready". These drive cycles can be dangerous. You accept all responsibility for your own actions when you attempt these drive cycles. Neither this website or myself is responsible for any liability for your actions to yourself or others. If you don't have sufficient knowledge of what you are doing, take it to your Mercedes dealer for this drive cycle. Have fun with your SLK230. It's an entirely different animal after this fix.
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#12 Old 05-27-2010
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Here's a website with the basics of a "Drive Cycle":

http://repairpal.com/drive-cycle-how...ic-drive-cycle
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#13 Old 04-01-2011
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i had the same problem. I just fixed a severe vaccum leak where the lines meet up at the little rubber Y peice that fits on the intake manifold. I cant wait to go for a drive. I fixed it and cleared the codes this morning. Im hopping to see good results.
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