Acceloration hits wall at 3000rpm!? Help! - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 03-12-2010
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Acceloration hits wall at 3000rpm!? Help!

Ok so I'm full of dumb questions. Does anyone know why when, from a dead stop, if I put the stomp the accelorator, the car takes off good for a second then feels like it just dies? I think it happens around 3000rpm or so but it seems like it hits some kind of limiter or stops getting fuel or something. I'm have no idea why it would do this. Any help?
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#2 Old 03-12-2010
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Sounds like fuel starvation. When was the last time you changed you fuel filter? If you were not to stomp and gradually accelerated is the condition more better or the same? Does it stall?
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#3 Old 03-13-2010
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I had the same thing happen to me....on the highway or from a stand still I'd put the pedal down and it would jump and then just seem like I took my foot off the accelerator. It too was around 3k rpm.

Turned out to be the blower/super charger water pump which MB says seems to be common.

Cost me about 650.00 to replace at the dealer. <---That is the only issue I have had with my car since 2002 when I bought it and it has only happened once.
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#4 Old 03-13-2010
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You haven't got the speed limiter turned on have you?
I did that by mistake once on the motorway not long after I got my SLK
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#5 Old 03-13-2010
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Originally Posted by Ady View Post
You haven't got the speed limiter turned on have you?
I did that by mistake once on the motorway not long after I got my SLK
No Speed Limiters in the US


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#6 Old 03-13-2010
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If you accelerate normally, does it do the same thing?
and does it shift through the gears ok.
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#7 Old 03-17-2010
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it only seems to do it when i try to go fast. if i accelorate slowly everything is cool. just when i want to fly! I guess i will replace the fuel filter and see what that does!
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#8 Old 03-18-2010
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good chance you got a clogged catalytic converter. this happens sometimes when pieces break off your honeycomb from the cat and get clogged. thus they let a small amount of air flow, but when you try to push the engine and flow large amounts of air it simply wont pass. Hope this helps
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#9 Old 03-18-2010
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Originally Posted by mavrick77 View Post
good chance you got a clogged catalytic converter. this happens sometimes when pieces break off your honeycomb from the cat and get clogged. thus they let a small amount of air flow, but when you try to push the engine and flow large amounts of air it simply wont pass. Hope this helps
If this is the case, I believe there is a port for measuring back pressure. It's a simple check. Beware though, I have had friends with missed diagnosed bad converters, a fairly expensive mistake. Make them prove it. or try to test yourself.
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#10 Old 03-18-2010
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I agree w/ Mavrick77. If it were fuel starvation, it would be sputtering when it hits that "wall". I also agree that it could be the s/c water pump. Roots type s/c's drop sharply when temps get up. Take it for a spin when it's cold, and in colder weather and see what happens. If it acts the same, probably not the s/c.

Another thing to check is the intake system. If there's a hose off or cracked, the MAF won't read the incoming air correctly and will not supply fuel. You may want to clean the MAF while in there too. They sell MAF cleaner spray.
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#11 Old 03-18-2010
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Like I mentioned before.....I am going to say its the S/C Water pump.
These symptoms are exactly the same as I experienced.

When driving normally it would seem fine even getting up to speed as long as you don't put the accelerator down too hard.

If hitting the gas pedal hard it seems to sputter especially at the speed limit. At the speed limit if you put the pedal to the floor it would jump from the S/C kicking in and then sputter like someone turned off the engines power. It also felt like it was bogging down with too much fuel in the engine....End result...S/C Water Pump!

Do you plan on taking it in to see exactly whats wrong??
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#12 Old 03-18-2010
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Stock SLK230's have air to air intercoolers, and hence no pump to push cooling fluid through the intercooler. As an FYI, the air to air intercooler was enlarged on the SLK230's starting in model year 2000. SLK32's and the other vehicles using the AMG supercharged 3.2 V-6 (and some/probably all AMG supercharged V-8s) have air to water intercoolers.

So unless the OP's 230 is heavily modified to have an air to water intercooler, there is no IC pump to fail in his car.
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#13 Old 03-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santamonica SLK32 View Post
Stock SLK230's have air to air intercoolers, and hence no pump to push cooling fluid through the intercooler. As an FYI, the air to air intercooler was enlarged on the SLK230's starting in model year 2000. SLK32's and the other vehicles using the AMG supercharged 3.2 V-6 (and some/probably all AMG supercharged V-8s) have air to water intercoolers.

So unless the OP's 230 is heavily modified to have an air to water intercooler, there is no IC pump to fail in his car.

Ooooops...My bad....didn't know it was a bit different!!!!!
Sorry for the miss-info!

Thanx for setting me straight....Now I know why I don't say much about the non-32's
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#14 Old 03-20-2010
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Try Cleaning your MAF sensor with the MAF cleaner spray. I had a similar issue with my wife's SLK and the car has been driving perfectly ever since.
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#15 Old 03-22-2010
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Originally Posted by dblaze View Post
Try Cleaning your MAF sensor with the MAF cleaner spray. I had a similar issue with my wife's SLK and the car has been driving perfectly ever since.
Where is the MAF sensor located in the R170?
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#16 Old 03-23-2010
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Thanks guys

Hey guys I appreciate all your guys feedback. I def got some great ideas and I think i will start trying them all till something works. I'd take it to the Mercedes dealership but I am a soldier here at Fort Hood Texas and the closest one is over an hour away so it's hard to get away. I think I will start by checking intake hoses and MAF then replace the cat. If none of that works I will have to suck it up and drive to dealership. I just had the same ? type-r did though. Where is MAF? Thanks again for all the help guys!
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#17 Old 03-23-2010
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The MAF on my car is located in the intake pipe before the pipe goes to the engine, you will see a plastic housing with a plug coming out of it. It was near the front of the engine for me and it can be removed by undoing the two clips and a screwdriver to loosen the hose on the other side.

On a side note, I also had to repair the K40 relay using solder which was a breeze. These issues seem to go hand in hand, but the K40 issue will give you a string of 4 codes that can only be corrected by Bazzle's DIY or buying a new K40 module.

Good Luck!
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