Changed all mounts motor/tranny in my driveway - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 01-16-2014
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Changed all mounts motor/tranny in my driveway

My baby was still vibrating severely at red lights so I ended up ordering a mount kit from ebay. All 3 mounts for around $115. Cant beat that! Jacked up the car and changed the 2 motor mounts out. So SMOOTH now.

Today I had her in at the shop getting a safety and looked under the hoist. The Tranny mount was almost falling off!!! So home I went again to put her on jackstands. I had a loud rumble coming from under the transmission area. I thought I had an exhaust leak or something. After changing the transmission mount it's gone and almost feels like a new car! If you have any vibration woes think mounts first and be advised its very difficult to tell just by looking at them to diagnose if they are shot or not.
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#2 Old 01-16-2014
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wish you take pictures to help others. Mine is 115k miles now and would love to see a diy for it
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#3 Old 01-16-2014
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I just watched this youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bxPK1VcKOo

It's a different model but very similar procedure. I used a few socket extensions with a swivel thingy to get to the top bolts. Don't need "wobble extensions" like in video. Also there's no rubber mount cover thing and both mounts look pretty much exactly the same. Not sure why people say they're different.

Disconnect the top rad hose, little rad hose next to it and the MAF sensor pipe. Those should be the only things that have tension on them while jacking up motor. I was doing both sides so I put jack in the middle and undid both mounts and it allowed me to jack up the engine higher. Shouldn't need to go too high though.

You then put a jack under the oil pan with a piece of lumber to distribute the load. Its pretty tough so don't worry too much.

The one thing I WISH I HAD KNOWN before I started is:

It looks really tight and next to impossible to get out but really the only part you need to remove is the steering damper!!!! I removed tie rod ends and crap before I realized that the mounts will squeeze out with just removing the damper. ALSO turn the wheels all the way to the right to give you the clearance you need. Other than that you should be good to go buddy. It's a pain in the butt but I'd do it again if needed.

Not as bad as people go on about I don't think. Worst was rolling around on the ground and trying to line up mount holes. Put the top bolts in first, then bottom bolts. Keep them loose until you get everything lined up and then tighten them up. Tranny mount is WAAAAY easier. Just watch the video and if you need me to snap some pics or answer questions for you I can.


ps. Also need to remove a little heat shield covering passenger mount. Only two little nuts.
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#4 Old 01-20-2014
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I also used this video as a guide! The tricky part is to turn your wheels all the way to the right when removing driver's side mount! This guy does really nice videos and Mercedes's are almost the same so it's easy to figure out what to do
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#5 Old 01-29-2014
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When you do this job, make sure you use quality parts. There is a lot of Chinese junk out there, Uro being one of the worst. You're always safe using MB parts or the same manufacturer that Mercedes uses if you know that.

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#6 Old 01-29-2014
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I think its probably luck of the draw. MB mounts were going to rape me. I bought ALL 3 mounts for $125 on ebay and they seem to work very well. But yeah you don't want them to fail anytime soon. It's a PITA.
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#7 Old 01-29-2014
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Mounts are a good investment in any car nearing the 10 year mark. Like bushings, ball joints, and hoses, any part that includes rubber as part of the design has a finite lifespan. If that rubber is exposed to the elements, anticipate failure, inspect often, and replace before any damage is done to other parts.
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