How to replace PCV valve/remove intake manifold, and clean air nozzles - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 09-09-2013
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Post How to replace PCV valve/remove intake manifold, and clean air nozzles

Hi dear fellow members!
It's been a while since I resolved my MAF oil contamination issue... Now I got all things together and will post some instructions on how to remove air intake, clean air nozzles and replace the PCV valve with hoses.
The job took me about 4 hours to perform (including cleaning of fuel rail line, injectors, MAF and pipe, and installing an oil catch can (this is strictly my preference and is optional!)
I used this thread as my main guide but will try as much as possible to describe steps I took to perform the procedure.
http://http://forums.mercedesclub.or...ad.php?t=34036
Please, don't say bad words if you see lots of similar pictures. I just wanted to take as much as possible to see how everything would go back together so I can happily drive my car
I must say that over the years rubber hoses turned into plastic hoses due to heat coming from the engine (PCV valve hoses). They will break off and you will need to use side cutters to remove the rest from brass nozzles. BE Very careful!

To make sure your system is cleaned and not blocked you should replace rubber hoses on the oil separator and clean it as described here:
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...70-2001-a.html
You don't need to buy a new oil separator since it's simply a centrifugal-type piece of plastic. A good can of contact cleaner sprayed inside liberally and jiggling-wiggling it (upside-down) should clean it good from all the oil residue! But make sure you get hoses 1st before doing anything. Rubber turns into plastic and will crack/break!

Parts you'll need:
1) One Main hose - A 111 018 1582
2) One plastic Bracket for the main hose - A 126 501 0020 (Chances are very high that you break it since it's very fragile).
3) One PCV valve - A 111 010 0091
4) Two small side hoses - A 002 094 01 82 (Although one is enough. It's supplied as one double length hose which you simply cut in half)
5) Two inlet manifold gaskets - A 111 141 1380


A would also suggest getting small rubber hoses since they just fall apart like old chair foam =(. I tried to get the correct part numbers depicted on this diagram:

6) Rubber hose from MAF pipe to Check Valve - A 1179970982. It says order by the meter but I think most of the are pre-cut. It seems to be less than 50cm. (approx. 2 feet). I strongly suggest getting at least this hose. The catalog lists it two times
7) One hose - A 1170780781
8) These hoses: A 1170780581. These are listed 3 times in the catalog. So I guess just order 3 since they're just $3-4.
All these small hoses are just a fraction of a price ranging from $3-7 so I think it's worth changing

Tools you need:
1) Wobbling socket/connector/fitting!!! Very important!! Believe me!

2) Can or two of electric contact cleaner
3) Side cutters or needle nose pliers to remove the remaining rubber hose (which turned into plastic over these years due to heat from the engine)
4) A good mechanics toolbox with Metric socket set!
5) Torque Wrench
6) Reverse Torx Sockets (for fuel rail/manifold bolts)

Now to the job...
First disconnect negative battery terminal!!!! Then remove two plastic covers that hide steering pump and fuel rail line. These simply pop off =)
Here's the general overview of the area you'll be working on.

This is the same image but I tried to mark parts and pieces that need to be disconnected/removed.

Now we need to de-pressurize the fuel system. Since battery is disconnected there will be no pressure, but we need to unscrew the black plastic cap and there will be a tire-like valve. Place rag underneath and press on it. There might be a spoon of fuel. Nothing major.

Next, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel distributor. Mark the position so you can tighten it back properly if you don't have a side torque wrench. Again, place a rag underneath and unscrew. A spoon of fuel might come out.


Disconnect the vacuum air lines to the switch over valve.


Disconnect plastic vacuum hose going into the air intake! BE Careful not to brake it! Simply squeeze two tabs with two fingers and pull on the hose. It will pop out easily! Also, disconnect this connector from the air intake.


Then, we need to remove two bolts that hold the fuel distributor in place. You can see it in the middle on top (I marked it with black sharpie). Also remove this small bolt, holding the bracket.

On this picture you can see I removed one fuel distributor bolt and loosened another.
MAKE sure you disconnect the electric plug on the engine! (Top middle)

After bolts are removed, remove the fuel distributor itself. This simply pops off. Carefully grab onto it and start pulling. I've noticed that pulling left side 1st made it easier. It might be a little hard but you need to pull carefully and patiently! Do Not cut yourself! Watch your hand so they don't slip!

Now remove 4 metal clips securing wiring harness to injectors. Don't lose those! Set them aside. Guide the wiring harness aside so it doesn't interfere with your work.

I just took a picture to show how injectors look like. I must say they were in pretty good condition, and that little fuel that came out from the fuel distributor was clean as a baby tear!
A little hint: Clean the surface of the injectors with the contact cleaner to get all the dust/debris off. Inspect rubber O-rings on each injector so they're not cracked. Mine looked fine. When installing fuel distributor back I used a tiny bit of my Mobil 1 engine oil to lube large O-rings on injectors so they can easily get into place when you assemble them back.

After I removed the fuel distributor I decided to plug the holes with paper towels to prevent any dirt/debris going into since underneath there are actual valves!! So be careful dropping anything into that area!












































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#2 Old 09-10-2013
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Post 2nd part

Disconnect all the electrical connectors to the MAF pipe and butterfly valve. Undo 3 screws holding the MAF pipe, and undo two clips on the bottom end of that pipe that's near radiator. Disconnect the hose you see on the picture and there's a small thin hose connected to bottom in the same area which goes into check valve. Carefully disconnect it since rubber is not that good anymore due to age =(
Disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF!

Now you can remove the switch-over valve with big hoses connected to it. No need to disconnect hoses from the valve itself. But I did and used contact cleaner to clean this valve from all the oil residue it had. Was a little nasty. Also note that one of the OEM clamps will need to be replaces to the one where you can use screwdriver to tighten it. MB OEM clamp simply clicks in but due to limited space in that area I wasn't able to do it. It's hard. So just get a new clamp from your local autoparts store


You can see MAF removed with the MAF pipe. And you can see that I had some oil in the pipe. I would also suggest cleaning the pipe and MAF using electrical contact cleaner to make sure things are clean!


Next we need to undo 6 bolts holding the air intake in place. Some of the are easily reachable but some require a wobbling connector! Just take your time, get a little patience and little by little you'll get these undone


Disconnect electrical connector from the check valve. I used flat head screwdriver to release the check valve from the bracket. Be careful not to break it. Be very gentle! Remove the check valve and set it aside.


Remove small torx bolt between butterfly valve and switch-over valve holding the bracket.


Remove bolt from the switch-over valve.

Undo these two rubber supports.



Don't forget to disconnect the vacuum line on side of the air intake that goes into the cabin!


After you removed the switch-over valve. You'll get access to another valve. I used some Q-tips and contact cleaner to clean the top surface. Then I sprayed just a little directly onto the top surface and used compressed air to dry it out.


Here, I pictured another vacuum line that you shouldn't forget to disconnect.


Now, make sure everything is disconnected from the air intake, especially all small rubber hoses, electrical connectors. All necessary screws undone. Check and re-check. You will have some room to play with. Be careful here not to break any wires. The air intake should come off from the top. and you'll get plenty of room to work on your air intake nozzles!
IMPORTANT NOTE: To prevent any dust/debris from accidentally falling into the valve area I used paper towels to plug these holes. So make sure you cover the holes!

Remove old gaskets. Clean the area of the intake where it connects to the engine, and where gaskets go into. Clean area where injectors go into to make sure it's clean from debris! Let it dry. Make sure it's clean! Install new gaskets and set aside.



Here you can see the PCV valve and brass nozzles (badly clogged up with all the gunk...).


Remove the PCV valve with the hoses. The thin top ones will break off since it's plastic now, but not a rubber =)
CAREFULLY use side cutter to remove remainder of the hose from the brass nozzles! Don't damage nozzles!


I took a picture to show how my valves look like. I think they're in great shape. No burnt stuff, whatsoever. Pretty happy with the Shell V-Power gas I use!



You can see the old PCV valve with rubber hoses and broken bracket.

To clean the nozzles use electric contact cleaner, or WD-40. I used a paper clip to clean tiny holes. You may use a small drill as suggested by other person. The paper clip should go through nozzles! One of my nozzles was totally 100% blocked with all that gunk that I couldn't get the paper clip thorough... I thought it was welded from factory. But after some contact cleaner, poking the clip from top and from bottom I was able to get it through and clean the nozzle! The 2nd nozzle was also pretty bad but not fully clogged. You can clearly see how they should look like! Clean clean clean!
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#3 Old 09-10-2013
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3rd part

After you cleaned the nozzles you're ready to put everything back together. Get your new PCV valve, insert it into new main hose and install small side hoses and slide them onto brass nozzles. Install your new bracket that holds the PCV valve with the hose and connect the other end of the main PCV hose on the left to the area where it's supposed to connect

Assemble everything in reverse oder! Check, check and re-check that all electrical connectors and vacuum lines are connected!
Use the PDF manual for additional assistance and tightening torques!

Connect the battery and start the car! Hopefully everything works!!!
Get yourself a beer. You deserved it!

I opted for oil catch can (OCC), and installed it right in front of the PCV valve so it can catch all the oil in the fumes and I don't have that clogged problem again!
You can see where I installed it. I used a temporary bracket and will keep checking over the time how it performs and what is collected. Then I'll make a permanent "slide-on" bracket, paint it black to match the engine compartment and stay happy!
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File Type: pdf SLK 230 Remove fuel distributor with injection valves.pdf (110.1 KB, 139 views)
File Type: pdf SLK 230 Removing and installing intake manifold.pdf (197.0 KB, 148 views)
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#4 Old 09-11-2013
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Jayson, great job! I'm gonna do this when I clean out the whole intake system and intercooler. In this picture, is that oil in the big tube going to the intercooler? That's the same area where mine has oil also. Were you able to clean it and see how far the oil goes in there?

I'm going to order a box of the liquimoly stuff (that was suggested by a member in my liquimoly injector cleaner thread) that cleans the intake system, then after a while open all the intake tubes and intercooler to check if it did do the work of dissolving the oil in there.
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#5 Old 09-11-2013
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If I may ask, in your last picture what's that black box wrapped in electrical tape beside the occ?
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#6 Old 09-11-2013
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Originally Posted by Jayzen View Post
Jayson, great job! I'm gonna do this when I clean out the whole intake system and intercooler. In this picture, is that oil in the big tube going to the intercooler? That's the same area where mine has oil also. Were you able to clean it and see how far the oil goes in there?

I'm going to order a box of the liquimoly stuff (that was suggested by a member in my liquimoly injector cleaner thread) that cleans the intake system, then after a while open all the intake tubes and intercooler to check if it did do the work of dissolving the oil in there.
Yes, that's oil in the intercooler =( As far as my knowledge goes that should be due to blocked air nozzles. I have cleaned the oil separator and replaced hoses on it couple months ago and just removed the separator to check and everything seemed clean in there. No signs of oil on the butterfly valve whatsoever. But I gave it a Good cleaning with some electric contact cleaner one more time since I already took it apart again
All I could do is to clean the pipe and MAF. I didn't get to the intercooler itself since that's a big job (need to remove front bumper).
So hopefully, oil contamination stops due to OCC and clean nozzles. I also replaced the O-ring on the pipe. Ooops need to update members on that one =) It did make a good seal and I don't see anything in that area as of now. So, when I perform oil change I'll check the OCC and update.
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If I may ask, in your last picture what's that black box wrapped in electrical tape beside the occ?
That "black box wrapped in electrical tape beside the occ" is my HID ballast I think that's the only suitable place for it in this tiny space =)
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#7 Old 09-12-2013
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Hmmm, when you did this injector cleaning job, what's your mileage reading? I have oil in the butterfly valve. But I only have 88,000 kilometers. The fuel mileage in my car didn't change yet, I'm still getting 7-10 km/l as stated in the manual. But I want to do this job, I just want to know when do you have to do it? Do you have to do it after 80,000 kms? Or after 150,000 kms?

Do you have aftermarket hid's? I thought the silver box beside your occ is the ballast for the factory hid?
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#8 Old 09-12-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayzen View Post
Hmmm, when you did this injector cleaning job, what's your mileage reading? I have oil in the butterfly valve. But I only have 88,000 kilometers. The fuel mileage in my car didn't change yet, I'm still getting 7-10 km/l as stated in the manual. But I want to do this job, I just want to know when do you have to do it? Do you have to do it after 80,000 kms? Or after 150,000 kms?

Do you have aftermarket hid's? I thought the silver box beside your occ is the ballast for the factory hid?
My mileage is 131,000 miles so that makes it 210,824 km . I'm not sure when you have to do it but most articles in google say that PCV valve should be replaced every 40-50,000 miles. Mercedes doesn't specify interval for it. And moreover it's a PITA to replace such a simple thing.
Anyway I figured out myself that cleaning oil separator every 30-40,000 miles will help prevent oil build up in the system. So I think I'll stick with it.
Yes, I have aftermarket HIDs. If I'm not mistaken the silver box beside the OCC is a fan regulator/control unit.
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#9 Old 09-12-2013
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Originally Posted by JaysonM View Post
My mileage is 131,000 miles so that makes it 210,824 km . I'm not sure when you have to do it but most articles in google say that PCV valve should be replaced every 40-50,000 miles. Mercedes doesn't specify interval for it. And moreover it's a PITA to replace such a simple thing.
Anyway I figured out myself that cleaning oil separator every 30-40,000 miles will help prevent oil build up in the system. So I think I'll stick with it.
Yes, I have aftermarket HIDs. If I'm not mistaken the silver box beside the OCC is a fan regulator/control unit.
Haha, I thought it was the ballast for the factory hid, cause it looked almost similar to the old fat ballasts of aftermarket hid's.

It's really weird, mine only has 80k kms in it and oil was inside the butter fly valve, and yours doesn't have oil, and the oil separator was full of oil when I cleaned it. how much oil do you put in whenever you change your oil?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayzen View Post
Haha, I thought it was the ballast for the factory hid, cause it looked almost similar to the old fat ballasts of aftermarket hid's.

It's really weird, mine only has 80k kms in it and oil was inside the butter fly valve, and yours doesn't have oil, and the oil separator was full of oil when I cleaned it. how much oil do you put in whenever you change your oil?
Lol I'm still surprised the fan regulator is That big =)
I usually put 5 quarts and then add 6th quart in portions. Usually use half of the 6th quart to get it to the "middle" reading on the dipstick. Then I let it sit for about 5 minutes, check level again to be between two lines. Run a car for couple minutes and check again. Drive the next day and check in the evening when it has cooled down. I always keep oil level between "min and max" when the car is cold. I already hit 9,500 on Mobil 1 0W-40 (Before I put 5W-30) and never added a drop since last change. Must say it's the same color and consistency as at 5,000 miles. Waiting till indicator shows me 0 miles and then I'll change it =)
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Lol I'm still surprised the fan regulator is That big =)
I usually put 5 quarts and then add 6th quart in portions. Usually use half of the 6th quart to get it to the "middle" reading on the dipstick. Then I let it sit for about 5 minutes, check level again to be between two lines. Run a car for couple minutes and check again. Drive the next day and check in the evening when it has cooled down. I always keep oil level between "min and max" when the car is cold. I already hit 9,500 on Mobil 1 0W-40 (Before I put 5W-30) and never added a drop since last change. Must say it's the same color and consistency as at 5,000 miles. Waiting till indicator shows me 0 miles and then I'll change it =)
I thought so, that's what I'm doing for the past 3 change oils but before I took over changing the oil (our driver was the one bringing it to the Indy from the time it was bought) the engine poured by the Indy in there was 6 liters. I was thinking before, that the overfilled oil was the reason why there's oil in the butterfly valve, but I have no facts to support this yet. There's this one forum in mb world where the guy puts in 7 quarts, I was surprised because the owners manual said the engine oil capacity for replacement is 5.5 liters only.
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I did my own research and found that Changing oil on my own is super cheap!!!!! And I get to control the level. Last time I used old method by unscrewing plug on the bottom but I'm thinking of investing in one of those vacuum pumps ($80 approx.). They used to charge me $120, then I went to PepBoys and paid $80. But it turned out they used some fram Chinese filter and I'll never trust anyone to change oil ever again :-). Moreover, I saw how they blindly put 6 quarts. It almost killed me! After you drain oil there will be about half of a quart left anyway. You simply can drain every single drop! So I get my hands dirty a little bit from now on :-)


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#13 Old 02-16-2016
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Ah Snap.
Just ran across this thread while looking for the PN to
the vacuum hose that connects to the throttle body. One more thing to fix?

There's a hose with a piece that looks like a top then a ~2" hose from that thing
to the throttle body. Not sure where the whole thing goes...I should likely replace both pieces of hose.
I don't have an SLK, I do have a 2002 C230 Coupe that shares the same engine.
I found the drawing in the EPC that lists all the hoses, but it's not useful in
determining which hoses go where.

My question is this, what are the symptoms of the PCV valves being non functional or clogged?
OBD codes? Etc. Why was this repair performed?
Wow, looks like a lot of work.
That being said, really nice write up on removing the intake!
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#14 Old 04-04-2016
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I undertook this project on Saturday April 2nd 2016. My 2003 SLK with 130,000 was blowing oil into the intercooler and clogging up the Mass Air Flow Sensor (M A F ), and the car was performing poorly. My brass nozzles (from the PCV) were worse than yours. One nozzle was blocked and the feeder tubes from the PCV were broken. I had to use a safety pin to unclog one nozzle.

I appreciate this blog because the pictures and steps made this job so much easier.

I ordered the parts from Mercedes of South Atlanta online. Maneuvering through the diagrams and part numbers is tedious. I ordered the parts on a Saturday and received the parts on the following Friday, so about a week. Shipping and handling are pricey. Here's what I ordered:
Qty Product # Price EA
2 GASKET. 1111411380 $8.50
1 HOSE. 1110182882 $10.00
1 VALVE. 1110100091 $26.00
1 HOSE. 1110181582 $12.00
2 HOSE. 0020940182 $7.00
Your order summary:
5 products , 7 items $ 79.00
Shipping & Handling To AL, USA $ 19.95
Total

$ 98.95

I really only needed one hose 0020940182 because one hose is more than enough length. I would think, however, that an equivalent size vacuum hose from a local auto zone, etc would work for about $2. Also, I didn't need a new hose 1110181582. This is a thick tube, about 1 inch in diameter. The old one was in good shape. In addition, I think my old intake gaskets 1111411380 were fine, but I didn't know that when I ordered the parts. The other hose 1110182882, is for the other side of the engine port to the Mercedes oil vapor collection unit. The hose on my vehicle had turned to plastic and broke when I removed the oil collector.

Because of the difficulty of disconnecting the wires to the air conditioning compressor, I cut the wires and will reconnect with splices.

I haven't put the system back together yet, but I'm sure it will operate like new. This was long overdue since the MAF had been clogging up for some time now.
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#15 Old 04-20-2016
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Springsman, I have the exact same problem you have, but in my case, I just bought a new MAF thinking that was the problem. Let me know if after you put it back together it's running right as rain and if you also had to buy a new MAF (since it was dirty). I'm hoping that if I do the same work you just did, that I would have to buy a 2nd MAF.
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#16 Old 04-20-2016
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Originally Posted by urielito View Post
Springsman, I have the exact same problem you have, but in my case, I just bought a new MAF thinking that was the problem. Let me know if after you put it back together it's running right as rain and if you also had to buy a new MAF (since it was dirty). I'm hoping that if I do the same work you just did, that I would have to buy a 2nd MAF.
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Last edited by jbanks15; 06-16-2017 at 02:04 PM.
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#17 Old 06-16-2017
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Thankyou so much for this guide, I did this today and your posts were invaluable

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#18 Old 07-31-2017
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Does anyone still have the pictures related to the instruction above? I just got all my parts, were just about to perform the work, then found all the pictures no longer available.. Thanks..
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#19 Old 07-31-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valleyboy3000 View Post
Does anyone still have the pictures related to the instruction above? I just got all my parts, were just about to perform the work, then found all the pictures no longer available.. Thanks..
those pics were on photobucket

they want $400

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Last edited by jbanks15; 08-01-2017 at 06:54 PM.
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#20 Old 08-13-2017
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I'll give it a go. please check post 1

@JaysonM


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