Hi dear fellow members!
It's been a while since I resolved my MAF oil contamination issue... Now I got all things together and will post some instructions on how to remove air intake, clean air nozzles and replace the PCV valve with hoses.
The job took me about 4 hours to perform (including cleaning of fuel rail line, injectors, MAF and pipe, and installing an oil catch can (this is strictly my preference and is optional!)
I used this thread as my main guide but will try as much as possible to describe steps I took to perform the procedure.
Please, don't say bad words if you see lots of similar pictures. I just wanted to take as much as possible to see how everything would go back together so I can happily drive my car
I must say that over the years rubber hoses turned into plastic hoses due to heat coming from the engine (PCV valve hoses). They will break off and you will need to use side cutters to remove the rest from brass nozzles. BE Very careful!
To make sure your system is cleaned and not blocked you should replace rubber hoses on the oil separator and clean it as described here:
You don't need to buy a new oil separator since it's simply a centrifugal-type piece of plastic. A good can of contact cleaner sprayed inside liberally and jiggling-wiggling it (upside-down) should clean it good from all the oil residue! But make sure you get hoses 1st before doing anything. Rubber turns into plastic and will crack/break!
Parts you'll need:
1) One Main hose - A 111 018 1582
2) One plastic Bracket for the main hose - A 126 501 0020 (Chances are very high that you break it since it's very fragile).
3) One PCV valve - A 111 010 0091
4) Two small side hoses - A 002 094 01 82 (Although one is enough. It's supplied as one double length hose which you simply cut in half)
5) Two inlet manifold gaskets - A 111 141 1380
A would also suggest getting small rubber hoses since they just fall apart like old chair foam =(. I tried to get the correct part numbers depicted on this diagram:
6) Rubber hose from MAF pipe to Check Valve - A 1179970982. It says order by the meter but I think most of the are pre-cut. It seems to be less than 50cm. (approx. 2 feet). I strongly suggest getting at least this hose. The catalog lists it two times
7) One hose - A 1170780781
8) These hoses: A 1170780581. These are listed 3 times in the catalog. So I guess just order 3 since they're just $3-4.
All these small hoses are just a fraction of a price ranging from $3-7 so I think it's worth changing
Tools you need:
1) Wobbling socket/connector/fitting!!! Very important!! Believe me!
2) Can or two of electric contact cleaner
3) Side cutters or needle nose pliers to remove the remaining rubber hose (which turned into plastic over these years due to heat from the engine)
4) A good mechanics toolbox with Metric socket set!
5) Torque Wrench
6) Reverse Torx Sockets (for fuel rail/manifold bolts)
Now to the job...
First disconnect negative battery terminal!!!!
Then remove two plastic covers that hide steering pump and fuel rail line. These simply pop off =)
Here's the general overview of the area you'll be working on.
This is the same image but I tried to mark parts and pieces that need to be disconnected/removed.
Now we need to de-pressurize the fuel system. Since battery is disconnected there will be no pressure, but we need to unscrew the black plastic cap and there will be a tire-like valve. Place rag underneath and press on it. There might be a spoon of fuel. Nothing major.
Next, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel distributor. Mark the position so you can tighten it back properly if you don't have a side torque wrench. Again, place a rag underneath and unscrew. A spoon of fuel might come out.
Disconnect the vacuum air lines to the switch over valve.
Disconnect plastic vacuum hose going into the air intake! BE Careful not to brake it! Simply squeeze two tabs with two fingers and pull on the hose. It will pop out easily! Also, disconnect this connector from the air intake.
Then, we need to remove two bolts that hold the fuel distributor in place. You can see it in the middle on top (I marked it with black sharpie). Also remove this small bolt, holding the bracket.
On this picture you can see I removed one fuel distributor bolt and loosened another.
MAKE sure you disconnect the electric plug on the engine! (Top middle)
After bolts are removed, remove the fuel distributor itself. This simply pops off. Carefully grab onto it and start pulling. I've noticed that pulling left side 1st made it easier. It might be a little hard but you need to pull carefully and patiently! Do Not cut yourself! Watch your hand so they don't slip!
Now remove 4 metal clips securing wiring harness to injectors. Don't lose those! Set them aside. Guide the wiring harness aside so it doesn't interfere with your work.
I just took a picture to show how injectors look like. I must say they were in pretty good condition, and that little fuel that came out from the fuel distributor was clean as a baby tear!
A little hint: Clean the surface of the injectors with the contact cleaner to get all the dust/debris off. Inspect rubber O-rings on each injector so they're not cracked. Mine looked fine. When installing fuel distributor back I used a tiny bit of my Mobil 1 engine oil to lube large O-rings on injectors so they can easily get into place when you assemble them back.
After I removed the fuel distributor I decided to plug the holes with paper towels to prevent any dirt/debris going into since underneath there are actual valves!! So be careful dropping anything into that area!