Leaking headlamp washer nozzle - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 12-11-2016
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Leaking headlamp washer nozzle

Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Today I told Silkie off. I popped into the garage to get something and noticed a puddle under the front nearside. She'd wet herself.

Looks like I've got to replace the headlight washers.....
Since finding the puddle by the left front wheel I'd read up what little there was regarding the SLK headlamp washers and I've found out that:
- The full instructions to remove the washers involve removing the front bumper
- The part numbers for the nozzles are:
part #170-860-02-47 for the right hand side and
part #170-860-01-47 for the left hand side
- They are around $120 each from the American parts suppliers
- There are none I could find on eBay
- Very few SLKs being broken are fitted with the headlight washer system

So I've sent off tentative requests to the three eBay adverts for breaking SLKs that have the tell-tale headlamp washer covers and had a look at the headlamp washer on Silkie this afternoon.

I'll carry on with this thread when I've more to report but for now, this post covers the removal of the headlamp washer nozzle with a bit of cunning, to see what state it is in. The bumper is still firmly attached to the car.

View of headlamp washer nozzle after removing the headlamp (and the mess on the undertray cover)


Unclipping the retainer and removing the water feed leaves this view of the nozzle


The retainer is shown on the blue cloth next to the screwdriver. It just slides off the connector with finger pressure but can spring away, so be careful removing it.


Here is a view of the connecting hose showing the groove for the retaining clip. Remember that the connecting hose will leak water if it falls to its natural position by the nozzle so tuck it carefully upright near the top of the grille.


(now the sneaky bit...) Unclip the nozzle from its holder and slide the nozzle out towards the rear of the car


et voila! One leaking nozzle. The nozzle is leaking from the flange under my thumb. I'll see if this can be repaired while I wait for costs for the replacements


It's dark now so I will see what I can do next in my workshop. I will either be successful and mend it or I will damage the nozzle further. Either way I am no worse off as I would have had to replace it anyway. There will likely be a spring involved (pulling the nozzle back in to the body) so I will need to be careful.

This post covers the 'investigation' phase of the DIY. When I've had a chance to look at the nozzle - or buy a new one - I'll update the thread. If I can mend it then it'll be a DIY repair. If not, I'll be replacing it and then the thread will become a DIY replacement. If necessary, I'll offer a re-write of the entire thread from a 'discussion' into a 'DIY' when I've got all the steps in a list.

To be continued...
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Last edited by dbgrn; 05-16-2017 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Fixing broken Dropbox images
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#2 Old 12-28-2016
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Now the festive duties are complete and our guests have gone home I can spend some time in the workshop looking at the washer nozzle.

It turns out I was lucky. My nozzle was almost in two pieces when I took it out of the car so with a careful pull I separated the two bits into the piston body and the nozzle itself:


The leak was due to these two parts being partially separated and water under pressure leaking round the top of the piston, back down the body and, as you can see from the staining, out of the breath hole here:


So I cleaned up the nozzle (pic 1 below), checked the top of the piston (pics 2 & 3), filled it with water (no leaks - but equally, no pressure!) checked the O-ring at the base of the piston (pic 4) and then reassembled it checking the nozzle was pushed fully home into the piston (pics 5 & 6).

Pic 1 - Nozzle


Pics 2 & 3 - Top of piston and view of spring showing slot to locate nozzle



Pic 4 - Green O-ring (Gummi-Pflege'd to prep the rubber)


Pics 5 & 6 - Re-assembling the washer nozzle, You'll need to twist the nozzle slightly to re-align the piston with the four slots in the housing.



Note the nozzle needs to be pushed fully home. Here it is partially home:


And here it is fully home. The spring is strong - it is hard to hold it and take photos....


The last steps are to re-fit the washer nozzle back to the car - that'll be discussed in Post 3, below.
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#3 Old 12-28-2016
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The last steps are to put the nozzle back in the car, attach the pipe, make sure it's clipped properly then re-install the headlamp


and then test....

First of all, note on the body of the piston there is a locating guide that needs to fit in a slot in the housing we left in the car. In this photo it's above my index finger:


Reach into the car, behind the housing and insert the piston (nozzle end first) and slide up, locating the guide into its slot before clipping the piston into place:


Now re-attach the hose taking care to hold the base of the piston as you push home the hose. When it is pushed home, slip the fixing into place to hold the hose firmly:


Finally pull down the flap and check that the nozzle is aligned behind the flap and that it faces upwards (so it actually cleans the headlamp when energised!!):


Re-fit the headlamp, connect the vacuum hose and the plug, insert the cable, indicator housing and it's cable and you're done.

Testing will be in Post 4.
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#4 Old 12-28-2016
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Now the final stage - testing.

You may have realised already, but the testing takes two parts:
- The first is seeing if the nozzle works again as a headlamp washer and
- The second is to see that after a short while the leak has gone.

So, if you're doing the same as me, you're servicing the nozzle and re-installing it. Therefore, after the nozzle has been put back in place and the headlamp re-installed, it's time to check that it works. If, like me, you are doing this work in a garage or workshop then first of all, move the SLK to the open air (like on a driveway). Then, while the car still is running, get someone inside the car to operate the headlamp washer switch while you observe the action of the nozzle. The nozzle you have been working on may take a second or so to re-prime but should readily eject itself from the flap and squirt water over the headlamp - just like the nozzle on the other side. Check also that the nozzle aims at the light, squirts water and returns swiftly behind the flap and that the flap closes quickly to cover it. If all works as expected then it works and the first phase of the testing is complete.

Now the second phase requires patience. Expect there to be water around the headlights and under the car as the lights have just been washed. So park the car (I put it back in the garage) and leave the car unused for 24 hours or so. This should give the water from the first test a chance to dry up. If you have no leak then once the area is dry it should stay dry. If the leak is still apparent (there will be a puddle, as before) then the leak is not fixed and you will need to replace the nozzle with a new one after checking where the leak is coming from. Unfortunately you need to re-assemble and test it works so you can pressurise the nozzle (hence carrying out the first test, above). It's most likely that you'll see any leaks when the nozzle is under pressure.

If you do need to buy a new nozzle then the part numbers you need are typically under the Electrical / Front Lamps / Washer Components and have the following descriptions / part numbers:



[ 1 ] ELECTRICAL / FRONT LAMPS / WASHER COMPONENTS
Washer nozzle right
Part Number: 1708600247

[ 2 ] ELECTRICAL / FRONT LAMPS / WASHER COMPONENTS
Washer nozzle left
Part Number: 1708600147

------
Let me know if there is anything I need to clarify here in terms of instructions or photographs and I'll see what I can do.
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#5 Old 12-30-2016
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GREAT JOB! Super photos and clear instructions. Was the repair effective, or did you have to replace the nozzle? Also curious as to whether the spray messes-up the bumper/grille/hood? Both of mine are leaking, and I am not really sure if I even want them operational or not. I am OCD enough that I like to have everything working right, even if I don't need it, or use it much. Thanks!
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#6 Old 01-01-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrooperSlick View Post
GREAT JOB! Super photos and clear instructions.
Thanks @TrooperSlick. Glad you liked it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrooperSlick View Post
Was the repair effective, or did you have to replace the nozzle? Also curious as to whether the spray messes-up the bumper/grille/hood?
After 48 hours there is still a small puddle under the car, which I think means I still have a slight leak. So I think I'll look out for a replacement when one comes along.

On mine the spray hits the headlight only so the only messing up that happens is as the car is moving. Then the splash-back gets carried by the slipstream and hits wherever it hits.
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#7 Old 05-16-2017
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Hi Savcom.
A very detailed post, thank you.
However I am unable to see any of the pictures, it says the location is no longer available. Do you still have them at all as I am experiencing a very similar issue to yourself so this information would be much appreciated.
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#9 Old 05-16-2017
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Yes m'lud? Ah yes. That would be Dropbox's Public Folders.

As if by magic, following my earlier post, the banner has arrived to allow me to update my post. I'll report myself and give some instructions to add the images back.

Thanks!
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Quote:
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Yes m'lud? Ah yes. That would be Dropbox's Public Folders.

As if by magic, following my earlier post, the banner has arrived to allow me to update my post. I'll report myself and give some instructions to add the images back.

Thanks!
you are a lifetime member with unlimited attachments
if you upload the pics to your thread/forum, they will never be lost again for not paying dropbox, or dropbox down, etc

just sayin'


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#11 Old 05-16-2017
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Quote:
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you are a lifetime member with unlimited attachments
if you upload the pics to your thread/forum, they will never be lost again for not paying dropbox, or dropbox down, etc

just sayin'
I know. I wasn't a lifetime member when I posted that. Sorry. Mea Culpa.

And I attach all photos now. Honest. Just wish I could have slightly larger images though. 128k is a bit tight sometimes. #justsayin '

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Quote:
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Yes m'lud? Ah yes. That would be Dropbox's Public Folders.

As if by magic, following my earlier post, the banner has arrived to allow me to update my post. I'll report myself and give some instructions to add the images back.

Thanks!


Thank you very much for this. From my looking last night it appears mine are only partially connected looking at your photos. They also have a lot of residue also so will clean and see what happens!
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#13 Old 04-14-2018
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Many thanks"Savcom" Excellent post and details.It's the nozzles that are my problem. Just had a quote from MB dealer.
Ł91 pounds each, for a replacement unit.At that price i will get the wife to jump out of the car, and wipe them clean. Oh
i will stop the car first !!
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Unhappy Blocked Headlight Washer Nozzles

Problem now solved.With a little old fashioned effort and thought. (1) One litre bottle of white vinegar. (2) Small saucepan. (3) Place nozzles in saucepan with vinegar. (4) Bring to boil on kitchen stove. (5) Boil for around 1 hour, keeping an eye on vinegar level to keep covered.(6) Keep room/kitchen well ventilated. Boiling will soften the muck in the tube and the jets. Remove the nozzle unit from the
saucepan.With a pair of pliers, grip the nozzle end.It's a ball end fit.Twist back and forth and pull out.(Use
light pressure only,or you will damage the jets).
(7) Attach a garden hose to the tube end of the unit.You will need a 1/2 inch Jubilee Clip to tighten down
and make water tight.Turn the tap on, and let the water pressure flush through.It will sound like a little
motor running.It's the diaphragm vibrating in the circular part of the unit.(8) When clean, press or tap
the jet nozzle back into position and adjust angle of jet.Re assemble and fit to car.Total cost of
job,around Ł3 sterling for both units, and a little effort.I now have working Headlight Jets.No further need
for the wife to jump out and clean.
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