Steering damper replacement/change (R170) - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 12-16-2012
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Steering damper replacement/change (R170)

Hi Folks,
I just got my steering damper replaced! Was an easy fix for 5-10 minutes! I must say that the steering improved, since my old one... well I must say it was simply a connecting pipe rather than a "shock absorber" =)) I didn't even have to squeeze it. As soon as I turned it over after I took it off it just slided open =) I'll upload a video on youtube an post a link here.
Ok, here's how to do it:
Tools needed:
1) Rag
2) Gloves
3) 2 16mm sockets or 2 5/8' sockets or wrenches


Steering damper is right in front of the transmission:

Here's the passenger's side bolt:

To unscrew the driver's side you'll need to make a use of 2 wrenches. One for holding the upper nut and the other one for unscrewing the lower bolt:


Just take a new steering damper and screw the bolts back in:


See =) Easy job!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SDampper wrenches.jpg (99.5 KB, 539 views)
File Type: jpg Unscrew Drivers side.jpg (51.7 KB, 527 views)
File Type: jpg Steering Damper location.jpg (52.5 KB, 533 views)
File Type: jpg SDamper Passengers side.jpg (51.2 KB, 520 views)
File Type: jpg New Steering Damper.jpg (129.5 KB, 524 views)
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#2 Old 12-16-2012
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Nice post - thanks.

Do you think your old damper was the original? How many miles on it?
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Len
2003 SLK320 40,000 miles - now lives in Tucson with my daughter
1959 220S Cabriolet - sold - now lives in Malta
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#3 Old 12-16-2012
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Nice post - thanks.

Do you think your old damper was the original? How many miles on it?
Thanks Sokoloff!
Yes, my old damper was original, It said made iin Germany with the part number, etc. And it was soooo bad! Literally I didn't even have to squeeze it... I think it was there since factory... How long does these thing last? Or is it just a problem with our SLKs?!
Also can I please ask you to look at my other post?!
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...alignment.html
I'm afraid if my drag link is bad then I will damage the steering damper and then have to replace it again =(
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#4 Old 12-17-2012
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I don't know the mileage on your SLK, but if it's approaching 100K, then it is very reasonable that it's time to replace it. My car is the same year as yours, but I'm only at 26K miles, so I suspect I have a ways to go before mine needs done. It's also not unreasonable to think that your front end needs some attention too, both the joints and any rubber up there like mounts, etc.

Len
2003 SLK320 40,000 miles - now lives in Tucson with my daughter
1959 220S Cabriolet - sold - now lives in Malta
1983 240D 351,000 miles original owner - sold
1999 E300D 215,000 miles
2014 Smart electric 17,000 miles
2014 Smart electric 9,000 miles
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#5 Old 03-23-2013
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Mine was completely shot at 100k. Replacing it really improved the tramlining I was experiencing.
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#6 Old 03-26-2013
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Originally Posted by Mark999 View Post
Mine was completely shot at 100k. Replacing it really improved the tramlining I was experiencing.
I would assume that these go roughly 70,00-100,000 then you need to inspect them.
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#7 Old 05-02-2013
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sLk 320 started leaking

I went to 32 point inspection, the mechanic showed me that the steering damper is leaking. It look like it is kind of dust and wet. anyways, time to change with Stabilus damper.

Are there any torque settings for these screws?
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#8 Old 05-02-2013
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Originally Posted by allure1 View Post
I went to 32 point inspection, the mechanic showed me that the steering damper is leaking. It look like it is kind of dust and wet. anyways, time to change with Stabilus damper.

Are there any torque settings for these screws?
Everything in MB has its torque specs. Can't tell you what these are for the steering damper. You may follow my advice. Usually I try to clean up a bolt and the area it attaches to, then take a sharpie (I use black or silver ones) and mark the position on the bolt and the surface so when you tighten it the lines are aligned =) Might put a scratch mark since the oils and fluids tend to remove the sharpie =)
Some people also use blue loctite on the bolts. I never do. It's up to you!
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#9 Old 05-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaysonM View Post
Everything in MB has its torque specs. Can't tell you what these are for the steering damper. You may follow my advice. Usually I try to clean up a bolt and the area it attaches to, then take a sharpie (I use black or silver ones) and mark the position on the bolt and the surface so when you tighten it the lines are aligned =) Might put a scratch mark since the oils and fluids tend to remove the sharpie =)
Some people also use blue loctite on the bolts. I never do. It's up to you!
I have done marking on my oil filter cap so I don't have to use torque wrench. Thanks for the tip and I always put blue loctite on bolts.
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#10 Old 05-04-2013
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If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.

Len
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#11 Old 05-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.
Now I leaned something new here. I was told by mechanics to apply blue loctite on bolts when tightening but you are right, the torque value will change. Anyways I will use dry bolt with the torque spec I got from cross fire manual. Hopefully these are same for SLK320.

Steering Damper Bracket Nut and Bolt 40 N.m 29 Ft.Lbs 348 In.Lbs
Steering Damper to Drag Link Nut and Bolt 40 N.m 29 Ft.Lbs 348 In.Lbs
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#12 Old 07-15-2014
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I get the whole torque issue but I worked in a garage as a kid and have done a lot of my own work on various cars over the years including GM, Volvo and for the last 27 yr. MB cars.
The one question I ask myself have I ever had a well tightened bolt back off? I used to swap my winters for summers twice a year and never once used a torque wrench and never had a wheel come loose. I used to check a few weeks after I put them on and never found any movement so how important is it really?
I just had the fronts off the Slick and painted calipers. The wheels are well tightened and I won't be losing sleep over not torquing them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.
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#13 Old 07-15-2014
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some bolts need specific torque settings as they are designed with stretch increasing the clamping force (head bolts for example)these bolts should always be renewed if they are slackened off
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#14 Old 07-16-2014
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Head bolts I agree but then that is not an area I would jump into.
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