Slk auto gear box problem and fix - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 06-23-2012
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Slk auto gear box problem and fix

Hi all

Recently my r170. 230 Kompressor started making a whining noise that sounded like the charger, the next day it was a lot louder so I took it straight to the garage. They got it up in the air, and it then became evident that the noise was coming from the area of the torque converter!!!! They rang MB who confirmed that they had come across this before with this gearbox and that the torque converter would need replacing at a cost of thousands!! The guy at the garage suggested that I took the car to someone that he knew who was a guru with MB. On leaving the garage I lost all drive, it was like the car was in neutral, I turned off the engine and re started and all seemed ok (except for the noise) the loss of drived happened several times during the journey to the "guru" each time having to re start the engine I explained to the guy what the other garage had said and been told by MB, and the guru just stood there laughing he then proceeded to tell me that the problem was due to the filter being blocked in the gearbox and that a common problem is that the cells break in the radiator between the coolant and the oil cooler (combined rad) and the water mixing with the oil blocks the filter and turning off the engine allows the oil to settle befor being drawn back into the filter and blocking it again. Anyway to cut a very long story short I limped back to my mates garage (as the guru was to busy) they dropped the oil and sump (oil was old looking (after 47500 miles) but no water contamination fitted a new filter and trans fluid and bingo, everything was solved gear changes are smoother than ever

Hope this is of some interest, might save someone else a few quid
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#2 Old 06-23-2012
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#3 Old 06-23-2012
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That's great news! So drain the auto transmission oil, flush, and replace filter was all that was to it? Sounds like a DIY to me. =)

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#4 Old 06-23-2012
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it would be if he did it! LOL! pictures would compliment a diy. moving to r170 diy this time!


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#5 Old 06-23-2012
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Another example of why there are no "filled for life" fluids. And if you are lucky enough to have a '98 or a '99, your torque converter also has a drain plug, so you can get almost every last drop of the old ATF out just by draining the pan and the torque converter.

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#6 Old 08-02-2012
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Torque converter location

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Another example of why there are no "filled for life" fluids. And if you are lucky enough to have a '98 or a '99, your torque converter also has a drain plug, so you can get almost every last drop of the old ATF out just by draining the pan and the torque converter.

Len
Dear Sokoloff,

Can you please tell me where the torque converter plug is located? I have 2003 230 SLK

I see it's similar to this guide PHOTO DIY- 722.6X TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
I searched but no pictures or description where this torque converter is located =((

I'm planning on taking pictures =))
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#7 Old 08-02-2012
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Ok, I found where the torque converter plug is located. There's a picture in this post: PeachPartsWiki: 722.6 Transmission Fluid and Filter Change

Will see how it goes!
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#8 Old 08-02-2012
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Your '03 should not have a torque converter drain plug. They disappeared after the '99 models. if you find one, please let me know, because I've got an '03 too.

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#9 Old 08-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Your '03 should not have a torque converter drain plug. They disappeared after the '99 models. if you find one, please let me know, because I've got an '03 too.
I found this website: 722.6 ZF transmission application
And found also that "W" stands for torque converter. According to this table all 722.6 models have it. When you were changing your transmission oil how many did you have? I called the service and they looked up by the VIN and told me between 8-9 quarts (approx. 8-9 liters)

Also, when you change the transmission oil, do you need to place your car in "P" (park) mode or one can keep it in "N" neutral?!

And if I do have this torque converter, do I need to put the car in "N" in order to perform action number 7 in this guide?
PeachPartsWiki: 722.6 Transmission Fluid and Filter Change

"Unless the drain plug stopped in the down position, you will have to have someone turn the engine over to rotate the torque converter. Turning the engine over is accomplished by using a 27mm socket on a long breaker bar placing the 27mm on the crankshaft pulley nut and gently rotating the engine clockwise. Since the rear wheels are off the ground- should rotate easily. Obviously, you don't want to break the crankshaft pulley nut loose just rotate the crank which rotates the torque converter."
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#10 Old 08-03-2012
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I never said that you didn't have a torque converter. Of course you have a torque converter. What I said is that your don't have a drain plug on your torque converter. You cannot perform step #7 since you have no drain plug. That procedure is for a 1997. As I said above, the drain plug disappeared after the 1999 model year. A search will lead to several options:
1. Drain the 4 liters or so in the pan only and be happy.
2. Do #1 a couple of times over a month or two to get most of the ATF changed. Once gets about 50%. Twice gets you up to about 75%, etc.
3. Have the transmission flushed which forces new ATF into the system. I personally would never do this on my car.
4. Disconnect one of the cooler lines and fill until fresh fluid appears.

Transmission can be in P when you do the job. Easiest method for you is #1 or #2. Always change the filter.

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#11 Old 08-03-2012
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
I never said that you didn't have a torque converter. Of course you have a torque converter. What I said is that your don't have a drain plug on your torque converter. You cannot perform step #7 since you have no drain plug. That procedure is for a 1997. As I said above, the drain plug disappeared after the 1999 model year. A search will lead to several options:
1. Drain the 4 liters or so in the pan only and be happy.
2. Do #1 a couple of times over a month or two to get most of the ATF changed. Once gets about 50%. Twice gets you up to about 75%, etc.
3. Have the transmission flushed which forces new ATF into the system. I personally would never do this on my car.
4. Disconnect one of the cooler lines and fill until fresh fluid appears.

Transmission can be in P when you do the job. Easiest method for you is #1 or #2. Always change the filter.
Oh, my bad about the plug. =) You're the man!
Here are some pictures I got this morning. Took the car on ramps. Not too much space but enough to perform "dropping the pan" procedure!
Yeah, you're right the 170.449 ((late 1999-early 2004) has 722.616 transmission without the drain plug on the torque converter.


I can see a drain plug on the left.


Here are the plastic caps to the torque converter.



I just wonder what is the hose that connects to the transmission?!


I found this post on BenzWorld Flushed my tranny - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
"yumling" removed plastic tubing that attaches to Air Filter housing. Then he put a clear plastic 5/8 tube on it and flushed the tranny liter by liter. I think that's what I'm going to do. I just want everything to be as clean as possible!

I also have one more question. On our old Montero Sport when we were changing the engine oil with our dad, when almost all the oil was out we used the air compressor to "push out" the maximum leftover oil from the engine. We used a rag to close the oil cap hole and inserted the compressor hose with the trigger-shape connector and pushed the pressure through the engine at lower psi.

Is it possible to do with the transmission? For example if i stick pressure hose into the dipstick hole? Will it push the rest of the oil? Or pressure is not recommended. Don't want to mess up things
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#12 Old 08-03-2012
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I can't locate this transmission cooling hose on my SLK 230 which connects to the radiator so I can do the flush... Any ideas?
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#13 Old 08-03-2012
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IMO you will gain little and might lose a lot by using air to try to blow out oil or ATF. You will get so little more that it's not worth the risk. If you're that concerned about what's in there or what's left in there, then do another oil change in a few months or so, but that's probably not needed either. When you change the oil and filter, you're going to get 95%+ of the old oil out if you change it while it's hot and let it drain for awhile. It's a little different on your transmission, since draining via the pan only will get you 50% at most. Without access to drain the converter, there is little to be gained by getting an ounce or two more ATF out of the transmission.

Cars can go a half million miles or more with regular fluid changes without obsessing with that little that still clings to the metal parts. And there is no good reason to increase the oil change intervals recommended by Mercedes if you are using the proper fluids and filters. If you want to ease your mind, then do an oil analysis every few years to prove to yourself that adhering to the factory recommended intervals is more than sufficient to keep your car in top shape.

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#14 Old 08-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
IMO you will gain little and might lose a lot by using air to try to blow out oil or ATF. You will get so little more that it's not worth the risk.
Yes, that's what I thought Sokoloff. Not worth it.
I located the cooling lines from the transmission to the radiator. Here are pictures I took today.

This hose is the transmission oil connection to the driver's side (aka "Left")


This is how this "Left" connection looks on the torque converter on the bottom:


Now, this is the Passenger's side (aka "Right") transmission oil connection on the torque converter. That's what MB uses to flush the transmission in this manual. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta....6-flush-1.pdf


And that's where this "Right" line connects to the radiator.

As you can see it's not really convenient to unscrew even if one has the right tool. The Radiator fluid hose is on the way and there's also no convenient access from the top =(

I also took a picture of my Electrical Connection Spacer (aka Spacer the part No. 2035400253). As you can see it started leaking and needs a replacement too :-)


Great thanks to "slk230red" from Benzoworld for the info on this connector.Repairing Transmission Fluid Leak - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
Mercede-Benz Warranty information about leaking connection:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...-ring-leak.pdf

Will probably create a separate thread on this DIY with all the info combined after I finish this project.
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#15 Old 08-06-2012
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Great info and great job searching for the line. I look forward to seeing your DIY thread.
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#16 Old 08-06-2012
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looks good, I'm having mine done by a trusted guy who works on Mercedes, hes going to drain the fluid, new filter, than poor fluid in it and the cycle the fluid through his machine to get the rest of it out of the torque converter.

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#17 Old 08-06-2012
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looks good, I'm having mine done by a trusted guy who works on Mercedes, hes going to drain the fluid, new filter, than poor fluid in it and the cycle the fluid through his machine to get the rest of it out of the torque converter.
How much will he charge you?
I went to the authorized service center and they wanted to charge me $399 + tax + different shop supplies for the job. And the guy told me smth about the electrical connection they need to change. (Now I know it's the Spacer). So it will cost me around $500. I can buy all my supplies for less than half of that price and spend half of the day doing it myself for that money, and spend the rest for some upgrades!
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#18 Old 08-07-2012
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They will charge me $425 and that's for the flush and they are going to try and figure out why my horn doesn't work also. And you need a special pump to get the rest of the old fluid out of the torque converter so that might be tricky for you. He also told me that my car required a special full synthetic fluid in my Trans because they only made it a couple of years that's why Mercedes didn't have a dipstick in it. He came highly recommend by my dads friend who has the only sl300 convertible with yellow exterior and hunter green interior in the world. If you have any questions you can call him at 847.688.0500 he knows everything there is to know about Mercedes.
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Just got my slk back from the shop, they charged me 800 dollars, it was so expensive because he bought a k40 module to fix my horn issue! I drove it back home and the transmission is so smooth now that you can barely feel it shift!
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Quote:
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Just got my slk back from the shop, they charged me 800 dollars, it was so expensive because he bought a k40 module to fix my horn issue! I drove it back home and the transmission is so smooth now that you can barely feel it shift!
Wow! That's expensive! Considering that I just replaced my ignition lock for a little over $400 it's way too much for me! But I'm glad your car is running smoother than before! You got a nice ride! Glad you're taking care of it!
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