Ok, I've made up my own "broomstick" by cutting some 11 x 17" paper (which I have a lot of) down to 11 x 16" in length. (15-16" seems to be the right length for the 170.) I then began by rolling a sheet around a rather large dia. pen. (More than 1/4".) As I rolled, I kept adding additional sheets of 16" long paper until the roll was about 3/4" in dia., (I think I used about 10 sheets) and then I rolled in some additional full length 11 x 17" sheets (4-6 more) until it was about 1" in dia. I then used some Scotch tape to hold it all together. (One could always use duct tape as well . . .
) All these sheets were interleaved as I rolled them - think of them as all being in one stack, and then offsetting each sheet a couple of inches from the next lower sheet.
As that point, I split the 17" long end down to the 16" length and splayed them apart to form a notch that can fit over the edge of the windshield frame between the latch points. This actually works quite well, as long as a police don't roll by while you're carrying it out or back. (They might think it's the biggest doobie they've ever seen . . . .
(One important note!!!
(At least this is how it worked on my car.) As the hydraulic pressure relaxes, the latch paws tend to close up a bit. When I pulled the broomstick, and the roof settled, the latch clasps were actually out of position and would have jammed if I had just let the system drive the roof home. One has to let the hydraulics "re-open" the roof a bit first before trying to finish the closing that gravity had started. Perhaps using the wrench and doing it manually will hold the latch paws in position better, but I don't know.)
I'm not having much luck at the moment though with my work. (It's drizzling a bit as well!!!
I would like to get the trim panel off on the passenger side rear column, (C pillar?) but I'm having some difficulty in figuring how it's attached. This is where the hydraulic lines for the latch cylinder come down into the trunk area. Also, it seems that the headliner side trim is hooked around part of the roof hinge mechanism, and pretty tightly too. Even with all three screws out I couldn't get them out of the car.
(If nothing else it would be nice to give them a good cleaning.)
(Ok, I'll have to face a bit of the inevitable here. In a previous iteration of this note, I expressed some concern as to getting to the rear clevises of the roof cylinders and I was hoping that I didn't have to take the rear shelf apart to get there. (Mostly because I'll have to get it right back together again so I can use the seatbelts and drive the car!) But it appears from all the other documents you folks have collected and passed along that this is exactly what I need to do. Unfortunately I'll need to be able to get all the cylinders out in one go since once I start removing hydraulic lines, I'll be committed. (Or I'll need some more hands to help move the roof around if i get it out of sync!) The one thing I don't want to be doing is fighting with this in my apartment lot if it's getting dark and starting to drizzle again. (And needing to drive to work the next morning!) Perhaps I should just spend the rest of this week making sure I have everything ready and do it on Saturday when I have the whole day . . . My red sleigh will just have to spend Christmas a bit gutted as I send the cylinders off to be reworked.)