Transmission fluid change - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 10-12-2011
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Transmission fluid change

Thanks to str8pryd for this pdf
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File Type: pdf Transmission Fluid Exchange[1].pdf (1.15 MB, 1386 views)
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#2 Old 08-23-2012
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Hi everybody!
Here I am with more pictures! Please, if i take too many, just say, don't beat me .
I'm just a regular person who does lots of research before doing anything and wonders how things look like. Moreover, I'm an IT guy, not a certified auto mechanic =) (But my friends already call me so since I've done too much work to my car myself! )
I searched and searched and searched...
I gathered as much official information as I could to justify my choice of oil and tell people about bad electrical connector (Spacer)!

I did a transmission fluid flush recently! Really easy job! Not too many tools required, just enough space under the car! Along the way I changed the "Spacer" (aka O-ring transmission electrical connector, mine was leaking). I'll talk about it later ;-)

Now my transmission shifts A LOT smoother! Almost don't notice how it shifts into Reverse or any gear. Not long before the fluid change I started having a small problem: When the transmission was cold it started shaking a little bit whenever I put it in Reverse. Probably that was because of my leaking "Spacer" (the electrical plug which connects into the transmission). When I took it off it was totally covered in fluid! Gone now! In addition, it doesn't shift longer into 2nd gear in mornings when it's not warmed up! Also, when it was cold, it shifted with a couple seconds delay into reverse and was a little bit harsh. It's gone now!

NOTE: I used 236.14 fluid (pink color) instead of 236.10 (mine was of greenish color after I drained it). I justified it using the following guides and MB documents:
List of MB fluids specs and its equivalents: http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoli...&language_id=1

I simply followed this awesome guide posted above but did a transmission flush described here:
722.6 flush.pdf

Also, these websites was a lot of help on changing the "Spacer"
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...luid-leak.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ctor-seal.html
http://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-...connector.html
http://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-...722-623-a.html
SO, GREAT THANK YOU to All these members who posted them!!!!

I got all my parts from https://www.getmercedesparts.com/

Note: Please check the catalog for your vehicle year/model before ordering parts!

Parts you'll need:
1) Transmission fluid. 236.14 part # is 001989680310 (at least 7 quartz if you don't do flush) mine was $14.63 per liter. I ordered 12.
The 236.10 (original fluid) part # is 001-989-21-03-10
Please, refer to this post http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ssion-faq.html
if you have any questions and say thank you to loubapache for his research!
Also, these documents justify my choice of 236.14 oil:
Mercedes August 2007 recommended fluids.pdf
Spec_231_1[1] MB trannie fluids.pdf
2) Transmission pan gasket $11.25 (Though my old one was in excellent shape and I could have used it)
3) Transmission filter $12.00
4) Seal Ring for the drain plug. part # 1402710060 $1.13
5) Lock Pin for the filler cap (red color, indicating that transmission has been serviced) part# 1409910055 $1.13
6) Magnet. part # 220 271 00 98 (Some don't have it, but mine had) $3.00
7) Spacer (aka O-ring connector). part # 2035400253 $10.88

Tools you'll need:
1) 5mm hex
2) T-30 torx
3) 19 mm socket or adjustable wrench (to remove banjo bolts)
4) clear glasses to protect you from drops or spills
5) gloves
6) drain container (approx 8 quartz)
7) hose (to perform the flush) I used over sized hose to fit it on banjo bolts since I didn't have stock connector to put on it. (As described in the document)

I made a post regarding the location of transmission fluid lines and the direction of flow over here:
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...oblem-fix.html
So check this out ;-)

DO NOT forget to disconnect the battery when you start working!

From this point I will assume that you read the guide, prepared all your tools, drained your oil and dropped a pan. Now your Transmission is "bare" and looks similar to this:
As you can see my oil is really dark (sort of greenish color). But there were NO metal shavings or whatsoever! My magnet was covered with heavy grease all around but nothing major. Not bad for 115,000 miles!


Transmission with old filter on it. Note the location:


Now, bare transmission =)


Bolts removed: (including banjo bolts for transmission cooling lines)
If you do the flush, you will need to remove one banjo bolt on top. I removed the bottom one too (which attaches to torque converter) to drain it. Got about quart of oil out of it =)
NOTE: Do not lose seal rings on banjo bolts and notice their location before removing!


Here are some pictures of filters, plugs, etc.
Filter:






Will be continued in the next post!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Oil drained.jpg (69.8 KB, 1668 views)
File Type: jpg Bare transmission 1.jpg (65.9 KB, 1690 views)
File Type: jpg Bare transmission 2.jpg (65.2 KB, 1656 views)
File Type: jpg Bolts removed.jpg (84.6 KB, 1658 views)
File Type: jpg 1 - Filter.jpg (33.5 KB, 1654 views)
File Type: jpg 1 - Filter 2.jpg (42.8 KB, 1650 views)
File Type: jpg Filler lock pin and magnet.jpg (48.8 KB, 1656 views)
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#3 Old 08-23-2012
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Gasket:


Transmission Fluid (236.14)




And the famous Spacer! Will say a lot of words about it!



Now, about the electrical connector (aka Spacer). This thing seems to annoy MB mechanics for the last couple years ;-) They even issued bulletins and recalls on Crossfires and MBs!
The issue is that it simply leaks. First parts leaked due to additional pin construction and others because of bad rubber seal rings. If you order a new one you will understand what I'm talking about
Here are supporting documents:
First from MB (Sorry, couldn't find the original good quality pdf but was able to find picture of it. Still usable to get the main idea:

Second is good quality MB bulletin pdf:
Transmission O ring Leak January 19 2007.pdf
And here's the same bulletin for crossfires which comes with detailed description on how to repair them. (We don't need that, since this part has been revised couple times. Just order a new one. part # 2035400253 It costs less than $11)
Electrical connector Repair Crossfire.pdf

Here's a picture of comparing my connector (another proof that oil has never been changed since it has this little ping and old foam-like rubber seal rings) vs. new one:






Oops... I've reached my 10 attachment limit in the post Will continue in the next one!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer.jpg (38.0 KB, 1618 views)
File Type: jpg Fluid.jpg (28.1 KB, 1616 views)
File Type: jpg Fluid 2.jpg (30.3 KB, 1613 views)
File Type: jpg Gasket.jpg (67.6 KB, 1622 views)
File Type: jpg MB Bulletin Electrical connector repair.jpg (30.5 KB, 1651 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 5.jpg (60.9 KB, 1617 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 4.jpg (65.2 KB, 1615 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 3.jpg (45.7 KB, 1616 views)
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#4 Old 08-23-2012
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Great! Gonna sticky it!
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#5 Old 08-23-2012
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In order to use cleaner on the transmission part the transmission needs to be "bare" (fluid drained and pan is dropped).
So, to remove the spacer, turn it counter-clockwise to 7 o'clock position (do it by holding by the yellowish part of the plastic which has a somewhat "handle" on it ;-) ). The male plug will pop out. (Mine was covered with transmission fluid).


Sorry for bad picture. My camera focused wrong :-( But still you get the main idea (or check links I made in previous posts. There are better pictures!)




Now use the 7mm socket to unscrew the bolt inside the spacer. Then just pull it out. Check if any of old seal rings (there should be 2 of them) remained inside the connection. Remove them.

Before installing the new spacer we need to clean our connector and the inside where it plugs into the transmission (Hope I formulated it right).
Get some electronic cleaner from any auto store. NOTE: DO NOT use brake cleaner since it's bad for plastic or rubber!


NOTE: Be careful not to let product get into your eyes while spraying. Get some clear goggles! BE CAREFUL!

Use the cleaner to thoroughly clean the male plug which popped out. Spray on the outside and the inside connections of it. Wait till the cleaner flows out, then spray it again until you see clean cleaner flowing out of the male plug (Sorry for tautology ). Let it dry for 10-15 minutes.
Now we need to clean the part which it connects into (transmission connection). NOTE: DO it only if you haven't put the transmission pan back in yet and filled it with oil because if you start spraying cleaner into that area it will get into the transmission! It's safe if the transmission is bare. It will just flow out and you will let it dry 10-15 mins and that's it!

After our male connector and transmission connection are cleaned we need to put new spacer, right?!
Simply align the spacer properly. Push it all the way in. It will be more tight than the old one (probably due to new rubber seal rings. Use 7mm socket to screw the bolt inside the spacer. NOTE: BE Careful NOT TO over tighten it. Others suggest putting 2.5 Nm torque on it! Remember, it's plastic!
Next, align the male plug back into the spacer and turn it clock-wise into 11 o'clock position. That's it! You're done! After you reassemble everything and put your oil back in, check for any leaks!

Whew, I'm done for today. Will update this post tomorrow on how to flush the transmission! Have a good evening folks!

BTW, if someone is interested there's a Febi fluid catalog:
http://www.febi.com/fileadmin/user_u...rochure_GB.pdf
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cleaner.jpg (27.4 KB, 1597 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 6.jpg (67.1 KB, 1607 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 7.jpg (52.9 KB, 1603 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Spacer 8.jpg (50.0 KB, 1601 views)
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Last edited by JaysonM; 11-15-2012 at 04:52 PM.
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#6 Old 08-23-2012
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Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
Great! Gonna sticky it!
Thank you Jeff! Hope I answered many questions here =)
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#7 Old 08-24-2012
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Just an FYI - up through the '99 model, there was a drain plug on the torque converter, so there would be no need to disconnect the cooler lines. I'll have to check my notes, but I think the pan magnet was standard starting in '01.

Nice write up and nice photos.
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#8 Old 06-07-2013
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Excellent!

Thanks Jayson!
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#9 Old 11-25-2013
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Ok so i booked my 1998 R170 slk in for a Trans fluid change. Looking at the invoice, they only changed 4L!

I questioned them and said i thought it would take around 8L and they just said you would never get all the oil out unless you take it all apart ect... i mentioned about the torque converter and they just said it was all part as one!

My question to you is, is this true? or do you have to drain the torque converter too... in order to change the whole 8L ?

Regards
ash
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#10 Old 11-25-2013
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If you want to get all the last drop of oil out of torque converter it has to be removed and drained .
And that will mean removal of gearbox .

Best thing is do another oil chance again in the future .
Simplest and cheaper method .
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#11 Old 01-22-2014
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Thank you so much for this sticky! Very well documented and I'll be doing this soon. Saved me lots of $$$ for sure.
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#12 Old 01-22-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legendary620 View Post
Thank you so much for this sticky! Very well documented and I'll be doing this soon. Saved me lots of $$$ for sure.
A quick note and possible tip:
Torque converter has draining bolt ONLY on pre-facelift models (97-00). Post-facelift models (00-04) DO NOT have a torque converter draining bolt! Mercedes instructions to change the oil on post-facelift models include: "...You will need two persons to perform the transmission fluid change/flush ...fill the gearbox with transmission oil, (with banjo bolt disconnected on the passenger's side and draining bolt with hose connected to it and routed to the draining bucket. Let the other person start the car and wait till about 2-3 quarts of fluid are drained into the container. STOP the engine, refill transmission and perform the procedure again. (2-3 times)"
That's why you need more oil than actually transmission needs - to perform a flush which will remove old fluid from the torque converter.
One quick tip is that disconnecting the banjo bolt and finding a proper fitting with hose is very difficult. Believe me, it will make a big mess! What you can do is follow the transmission line and somewhere near the engine oil pan you'll see this line is covered with spring and there's a connecting bolt which you can unscrew and that can make draining a lot easier. I don't have a picture but will try to take one when I'm underneath the car.
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#13 Old 01-29-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Algebal View Post
Ok so i booked my 1998 R170 slk in for a Trans fluid change. Looking at the invoice, they only changed 4L!

I questioned them and said i thought it would take around 8L and they just said you would never get all the oil out unless you take it all apart ect... i mentioned about the torque converter and they just said it was all part as one!

My question to you is, is this true? or do you have to drain the torque converter too... in order to change the whole 8L ?

Regards
ash
You do have the torque converter drain plug and the shop is full of it. You didn't get what you thought you were getting and probably ought to raise hell with them about it. The other part of the question is did they even use the proper fluid?
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#14 Old 03-06-2014
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#15 Old 03-06-2014
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Good video, but several things need to be pointed out I think. He changes less than half of the actual amount of ATF in the transmission. The torque converter holds more fluid than the transmission pan and should also be changed. That's an easy job up through the 1999 models, because there is a torque converter drain plug on those cars. Beginning with the 2000 model year, that drain plug was eliminated, so changing all of the fluid becomes a little more of a PIA , but it can still be done. Details of one method is here - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...my-tranny.html.

He says to make sure the pan bolts are good and tight. There is a torque spec for them and they should be tightened only to that spec. It is a very low number, something around 7 to 9 nm I think (don't hold me to that number-need to verify that). The drain plug also has a torque spec that should be adhered to.

I believe that Mercedes came out with a service bulletin advising that the fluid level be checked when the fluid is at operating temperature, i.e. 80 degrees Celcius. Nothing wrong with getting it in the ball park cold, but make sure you check the level a few times after this service while it's hot.

The magnet appeared sometime in 2001 I think, so if you have a pan without the magnet, you should add one. They are less than five bucks from the dealer.

I personally would never have a power flush done to my transmission for fear of forcing fluid and accompanying dirt and debris into places in the transmission where it shouldn't be.

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#16 Old 04-25-2015
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Originally Posted by Livefreeordie View Post
Thanks to str8pryd for this pdf
I also say "Thanks!" for this DIY...very helpful.
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#17 Old 05-13-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Good video, but several things need to be pointed out I think. He changes less than half of the actual amount of ATF in the transmission. The torque converter holds more fluid than the transmission pan and should also be changed. That's an easy job up through the 1999 models, because there is a torque converter drain plug on those cars. .
I know I'm necro'ing this thread, and I'm deeply sorry for that. I have a 1998 SLK, and I'm confused as to a couple things:

1. Part number for the torque converter drain plug sealing washer.
2. When I've finished draining the transmission and torque converter, replaced the plugs and seals, filter and pan gasket, what then? Do I add all the fluid at once and start the car, or do I add half, start and stop, and add the other half? How much fluid should I use? The full 8 liters or stop at the spec of 7.x?

Lots of helpful info on the later models, but I've NEVER done transmission fluid before so knowing the last step would be immensely helpful.
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#18 Old 05-13-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riehl View Post
I know I'm necro'ing this thread, and I'm deeply sorry for that. I have a 1998 SLK, and I'm confused as to a couple things:

1. Part number for the torque converter drain plug sealing washer.
2. When I've finished draining the transmission and torque converter, replaced the plugs and seals, filter and pan gasket, what then? Do I add all the fluid at once and start the car, or do I add half, start and stop, and add the other half? How much fluid should I use? The full 8 liters or stop at the spec of 7.x?

Lots of helpful info on the later models, but I've NEVER done transmission fluid before so knowing the last step would be immensely helpful.
1. TC sealing washer is steel or Al - part #007603-010100 . MSRP - $1.40. Can be had for $0.03 from aftermarket sellers. Sealing washer for pan is copper BTW. Why the difference - I don't know.

2. After it's all drained, add about five quarts and start the car to get the new fluid into the torque converter. Then add the rest. Best bet is to measure the amount of fluid that came out and add that much back in assuming that your level was correct in the first place. Still you need to check the fluid level hot with the engine running with the special dipstick tool.

Torque numbers - drain plugs 20 nm. Pan bolts - 8 nm.

I would highly recommend that you also open up the electrical plug at the front of the transmission housing and make sure that it is dry inside. It's a ten buck part and easy to replace and will save you lots of headaches later if it is leaking.

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#19 Old 05-25-2017
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i am going to change my trans fluid this weekend. I got the filter and gasket from rockauto.com
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#20 Old 10-24-2018
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I know this is an old thread but I have the manual 6 speed box and was looking for a pdf or guide like the one provided here, any ideas please anyone.
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