For SLK 230 R170 chassis
This is a DIY for brake bulb replacement even if bulb is welded to chassis due to overheating.
My bulb housing became welded to chassis because of a faulty brake light switch which kept brake lights constantly on. Overheated and welded light housing to chassis.
Note: A.Bulb removal on left side of car requires trim
removal tool used to remove "pins" without scratching up your
plastic. Replacement of right side bulbs only requires pulling
plastic cover off (no trim tool required) and reaching up and twisting
B. If your bulb is not stuck step 1 should be enough.
Used masking tape, an old shop rag and scissors to. Cut strips of rag. Wrapped rag around pliers (pic above) to provide padding and enough grip to twist bulb housing out of chassis without cracking it.
Trim Removal tool (Autozone $10)
Bulb used: Sylvania 1156 LL
DETACH NEGATIVE CABLE from BATTERY TERMINAL. Using 10mm socket. Wait 2-5 mins.
Step 1. Left side is covered and sealed with trim "pins". Use trim removal tool to pop "pins" from plastic cover. You may need to move carpeting out of the way to get a full grip on the pins. The right side has no pins to remove. Just remove cover and reach up and twist out.
View of left side after cover is removed.
Pop pin from upper trim closes to light housing. This is just above the "black bristles."
This pin is just above the black bristles..
Pry the plastic away carefully just enough to get direct access to the bulb housing. Brake light bulb housing is the highest light. This is the view from top.
Reach up under the lower opening with modified pliers and reach from up top through the bristles. With both hands and pliers grip firmly and twist out. This may require some wiggling. Be careful even with padded pliers not to crack the housing when gripping.
When housing is removed, push and twist bulb from housing. Replace with new bulb. Installation is reverse of removal.