Removing & Replacing the Brake Light Switch on the R170 Series - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 03-17-2015
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Removing & Replacing the Brake Light Switch on the R170 Series

Found this on the BENZWORLD FORUM. Thought it might be of interest, and help someone who is considering doing it themselves. I made some minor additions to the original post to clarify some of the steps, but is pretty much as originally posted. Hope it helps!


REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH – SLK R170 SERIES

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Have stereo code available for after reconnecting the battery. (There is some question as to the necessity for this as there is no power to the “BLS” with the ignition switch turned out of the “run” position, or with the key removed from the ignition.) This is part of the procedure in the MB maintenance manual.


2. While it helps with access, it isn’t necessary, and the hassle and potential of broken aging plastic tabs and paint scrapes should lead you to skip removing the upper instrument panel cover. Just remove the “black plastic” lower instrument panel cover by removing two screws, and CAREFULLY removing it from the left side kick plate. You will have to lift the panel up considerably to get it over and off of the tab at the top of the kick plate, and most likely will hear a loud “snap” like breaking plastic as you do. This is normal.

The “BLS” part is just above and shielded by the lower plastic instrument panel cover, making this a contortionist exercise to replace. Wear long sleeves.



3. Disconnect the brake lamp switch harness connectors (1).

4. Press the locking tab (2) and rotate the brake lamp switch
(4 CLOCKWISE. (Only Ľ turn is required.)

5. Remove the brake lamp switch (4) from the brake pedal brace (3).

INSTALLATION

1. When you get the new brake light switch, don't press the white plastic part into the black body, or if you do, you can pull it back out. The length will be set as you install the switch and the first time you press the brake pedal after installation, and a wild guess on my part you may as well press the brake pedal for the first time with the engine running / power brakes pressurized to get the 'normal' brake pedal travel.

2. Install the brake lamp switch into th brake pedal brace (2) and rotate counterclockwise until it hits the stop. If I recall, you may need to hold the brake pedal out a bit against the force of the spring while initially seating the brake switch.

3. Connect the brake lamp switch harness connector (1).

4. Connect the negative battery cable.

5. Perform the BAS/ESP Reset Procedure - with the engine running and the steering wheel centered, turn the wheel all the way to the Left lock, then all the way to the Right lock, then back to center. Note this procedure relates to the battery disconnection, not because the brake switch was replaced.

6. Enter your radio code.

7. Hope your problem is solved and you do not need to continue trouble-shooting.
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File Type: jpg BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH.jpg (48.1 KB, 295 views)
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Last edited by jbanks15; 06-06-2015 at 05:20 PM.
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#2 Old 03-24-2015
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Great post, now i can finally replace my brake light
thx
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#3 Old 03-25-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydron View Post
Great post, now i can finally replace my brake light
thx
Be patient and take your time. If you have one, it will help to have a small light affixed to your forehead by elastic band, but if not, a good flashlight will do. One trick I used to give myself more room to work was to lower the top on my SLK. This way my feet weren't kicking the top of the car while I was upside down with my head under the dash. Another trick is to "extend" the steering column full out which will give you more elbow room.

As you remove the BLS, make note of the position as it unlocks and is removed. That will help on re-installing the new one. Good luck!
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#4 Old 03-25-2015
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Great post! Thank you!
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#5 Old 12-04-2016
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To add to above, on my E class (w211) I get every year the "ESP is inoperable" warning messages. Reading the error codes on OBD there is a report on steering angle sensor malfunction. 1st time happened, went to a Mercedes specialist who charge me $150 to replace the break light sensor which I thought was odd as there was no error code. But sure enough, it fixed the problem (didn't disconnect the battery).

A year passed, same symptoms. Went to a Mercedes part store, bought the switch for $20 and replaced it myself (5min) and the problem went away.

Now it has returned again (1.5 years after) and I know exactly how to solve it for $20 :-)
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#6 Old 12-12-2016
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any difference for manual transmission?
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#7 Old 12-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999slk View Post
any difference for manual transmission?
who are you asking?

please use the 'quote' button at the bottom of any post you wish to reference or reply to


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#8 Old 12-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
who are you asking?

please use the 'quote' button at the bottom of any post you wish to reference or reply to
umm...
You want me to quote the entire write-up?
He doesn't differentiate between manual and automatic transmission.
I'm asking if the installation and switch are the same for a manual transmission.
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#9 Old 12-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999slk View Post
umm...
You want me to quote the entire write-up?
He doesn't differentiate between manual and automatic transmission.
I'm asking if the installation and switch are the same for a manual transmission.

no. who is 'he'? that is who you hit the 'quote button for
if you are asking a certain member that posted in the thread, you just quote them
Just like you 'quoted' me. You had a question, quoted me, and I responded and we knew who you were askin'
fyi, this thread is over a year old and most of the contributors to it have not been back
Hopefully, they have subscribed to the thread and will be notified


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#10 Old 12-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
no. who is 'he'? that is who you hit the 'quote button for
if you are asking a certain member that posted in the thread, you just quote them
Just like you 'quoted' me. You had a question, quoted me, and I responded and we knew who you were askin'
fyi, this thread is over a year old and most of the contributors to it have not been back
Hopefully, they have subscribed to the thread and will be notified
Thanks for the lesson!
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#11 Old 05-17-2017
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Replaced the switch on my (now ex-wife's) 2003 SLK320. Didn't disconnect the battery. Brake lights work. ABS/ESP dash lights no longer on.

But, she says the cruise control still isn't working. Any ideas?

Thank you.
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#12 Old 05-18-2017
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The fuse maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redhead99 View Post
Replaced the switch on my (now ex-wife's) 2003 SLK320. Didn't disconnect the battery. Brake lights work. ABS/ESP dash lights no longer on.

But, she says the cruise control still isn't working. Any ideas?

Thank you.
Might try removing and replacing the fuse that protects the cruise control. It is located in the fuse box located under the hood, drivers side. I don't recall exactly which one it was, but that did the trick for me when mine ceased to function. Might make note, even though the fuse didn't appear to be "broken", putting in a new one fixed the problem.
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#13 Old 01-06-2019
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Thanks guys so much. The link to Pelican helped me immensely. My brake lights wouldn't turn off; they just stayed on constantly. After I replaced the brake light switch, it solved the issue.
It's not an easy job for a fat man of 240lbs, cause it's a really small space. Still better than paying a fortune to the dealer for this one switch.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
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