How to change/replace coolant tank on SLK 230 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 08-19-2014
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Post How to change/replace coolant tank on SLK 230

Hi fellow members!
I finally found some time to replace my leaking coolant tank. As some of you might remember it all started with the "low coolant" light being constantly on. Replacing windshield washer sensor and coolant level sensor didn't solve the problem so I figured out that rubber o-rings on the float itself in the coolant tank deteriorated and caused the magnet to fall on the bottom on the tank. This caused the low coolant light to stay on all the time . In addition, it started leaking and I managed to fix it temporarily with some quick putty I bought from local auto parts store. But then my tank started leaking right on top where the connection to the cap is located. Long story short age did its job and all seals deteriorated.
The part number for the coolant tank is A 170 500 06 49
So here's how to replace it. Took me about 30 minutes and was super easy.
Parts needed:
1) 6mm, 7mm, 8mm wrench sockets
2) Flat head screw driver
3) Rubber hose (to drain the coolant)
4) Empty 1 gallon plastic jar
5) Gloves
6) Rags to catch any spills
NOTE: your car MUST be COLD! Do NOT perform this procedure if you've driven the car recently!
First of all you need to get your car on ramps and remove the plastic shield on the bottom of the car. It's held by 4 screws. If you ever changed the oil then you already know
Next, open the cap on top of the coolant tank to allow coolant drain freely when you will unscrew the red cap on the bottom. If you don't open it - it won't drain since there will be a vacuum created.
Then, take a piece of a rubber hose that will fit onto the draining tip. Connect it, put the other end into the empty plastic container and start unscrewing red cap till the coolant starts to flow. You don't need to drain all of it. One gallon is enough to take the coolant tank off.



Next, remove the top plastic shield to access the small hose clamp. Disconnect it.



Wiggle the coolant tank out of place to get access to the coolant level sensor. Carefully remove it. NOTE: if you're looking from the top then the sensor is removed by turning it clock-wise.



Now note the supporting C-clamp for the main hose on the bottom of the radiator. Carefully pull the hose towards the engine and it will snap off. This will give you some slack.



Disconnect the clamp on this hose from the coolant tank. Use rag to catch any leftovers in the tank and not to spill it on your car. Also NOTE: DO NOT drop the hose since we didn't drain all the coolant and due to level differences it will spill from the hose. Instead, carefully secure the hose to be on top. Here's how I did it:





Take two hoses attached to your old tank and transfer it onto the new one.



The assembly is in reverse. Reconnect all the hoses, sensor, make sure you tighten all the clamps. Top up back with the drained coolant. Press on the big top hose a few times to eliminate any air bubbles from the system. Close the coolant tank cap. Double check everything. Start the car and check for any leaks.
Congratulations! You deserved a beer



Another NOTE: check your coolant cap. The rubber seal on mine was deteriorated as well and I had to get a new one. New Expansion tank cap A 124 500 04 06. Was only $6
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Last edited by jbanks15; 03-26-2018 at 11:50 PM.
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#2 Old 08-20-2014
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Hey Jayson,

Great job on the procedure! Nice pictures too. Thanks for sharing.
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#3 Old 06-14-2016
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Great Job Jayson! Thanks for your detailed explanation and photo illustrations.

I've got the same problem, the floater O-ring broken and leaks. Would it be not possible if I take a shortcut by not unscrewing the bottom screw (i.e. not draining out the tank) but just remove the top screws and hose (pumping out coolant from the radiation cap entrance from the top) and replace the tank then refill the coolant?
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#4 Old 03-26-2018
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I need to replace my coolant tank on my 1999 SLK 230. When I called the dealer, they asked for the last 8 numbers of the VIN to determine the correct part because he said there were two. They refused to give me the part numbers. Does any body know anything about this, what the two part numbers are, what the difference is, and how I determine the correct one?

Because the dealer could not get it until Thursday and CarQuest could get me one Tuesday, I ordered from them but their system only shows one part.

Also, I need to replace the small 5 inch hose between the coolant tank and the thermostat housing. It is just generic hose, not a custom numbered part. The dealer wanted to charge me $55 for a meter of simple hose. Does anyone know what the correct ID is for that hose?
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#5 Old 03-26-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorJohnson View Post
I need to replace my coolant tank on my 1999 SLK 230. When I called the dealer, they asked for the last 8 numbers of the VIN to determine the correct part because he said there were two. They refused to give me the part numbers. Does any body know anything about this, what the two part numbers are, what the difference is, and how I determine the correct one?

Because the dealer could not get it until Thursday and CarQuest could get me one Tuesday, I ordered from them but their system only shows one part.

Also, I need to replace the small 5 inch hose between the coolant tank and the thermostat housing. It is just generic hose, not a custom numbered part. The dealer wanted to charge me $55 for a meter of simple hose. Does anyone know what the correct ID is for that hose?
You can get your own part numbers here:

https://slk-links.neocities.org/

or post your vin and we can give it a stab


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#6 Old 03-26-2018
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#7 Old 03-27-2018
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Hope this helps and attached part list
20 in pic



@MajorJohnson
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File Type: pdf parts.pdf (181.1 KB, 6 views)


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#8 Old 03-27-2018
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Thanks for the super speedy reply and the link to the parts look up. I have never seen that system before, based on my vin F112461 and the chart that gives a PN of A 170 500 02 49
Up to ident. no.: F 139810
and

A 170 500 00 49
after. I'm going with the former.


The hose I need is #35 but I still cant indentify the Internal Diameter. OD does not seem important since it is attached with simple hose clamps on each end.

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#9 Old 03-28-2018
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Interesting update:
The dealer said there were two possible part numbers depending on the VIN:
The parts lookup site in an above post also said there are two part numbers:
A 170 500 02 49
Up to ident. no.: F 139810
and A 170 500 00 49 after that.

I spoke to my local CarQuest (Advance Auto Parts) They said their system only had one. I ordered it and it is a legitimate branded Mercedes part with a third number: A 170 500 06 49 (just as Jayson suggested) It looks just like the original part except that it has an extra long support rod on the right (as seen from in front of the car. It looks like this rod could be used as is or trimmed to match the original length. We'll see what happens when I try to install it tomorrow. On the subject of the little connecting hose #35. the dealer wanted to charge me $55 for a meter of this hose. Instead, I'm using 5/16 fuel injection hose--$4.49 for a foot at Pep Boys. It's a perfect fit and I imagine that fuel injection hose with have no problem at all with hot coolant under radiator pressures.
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