DIY - Engine mounts replacement for post facelift R170 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 06-22-2010
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DIY - Engine mounts replacement for post facelift R170

REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE MOUNTS (2002 MERCEDES SLK230)


This procedure (both front engine mounts) is based on my recent DIY experience only. It is for reference only. And yes, I used both SAE and Metric tools.

Tools:

Ratchet, extension, sockets (5/16”, Ľ”, 13mm, 16mm), 5/8” wrench, pry bar (such as handle from a floor jack), 2x4 wood block, Blue thread lock.

Procedure (start with passenger side engine mount):

1. Put front of car on jack stands.
2. Remove bottom engine shield using 5/16” socket.
3. Open hood and remove front engine cover.
4. Remove and plug small radiator over-flow hose from top front of engine using Ľ” socket.
5. Disconnect MAF pipe from intercooler elbow.
6. Disconnect air intake hose of air filter housing from resonator (oil separator).
7. Remove top screw from passenger side engine mount with 5/8” wrench. (Use pry bar for leverage if necessary)
8. Remove bottom engine mount screw using 13mm socket.
9. Remove screw from metal flange near the engine mount (see picture) using 5/16” socket. Move flange out of the way to make room for removing the engine mount.
10. Use a suitable piece of 2x4 wood block and jack up the engine at the bottom of oil pan.
Jack up engine enough to remove the passenger side engine mount.
11. Remove engine mount.
12. Install new engine mount. Note key position of engine mount.
13. Apply thread lock and replace top mount screw. Tighten screw.
14. Lower engine enough to align bottom screw hole.
15. Apply thread lock and replace bottom mount screw. Tighten screw lightly.
16. Lower engine all the way and tighten bottom mount screw.
17. Replace metal flange screw.
Next, to the driver side…
18. Remove top screw from driver side engine mount using 14mm socket and extension.
19. Remove bottom screw from drive side engine mount using 13mm socket.
20. Use a suitable piece of 2x4 wood block and jack up the engine at the bottom of oil pan.
21. Jack up engine enough to remove the passenger side engine mount. May need to jack up 2~3” in order to remove the mount.
22. Remove mount.
23. Install new mount. Note the key position of the mount.
24. Apply thread lock and replace top mount screw. Tighten screw.
25. Lower engine enough to align bottom screw hole.
26. Apply thread lock and replace bottom mount screw. Tighten lightly.
27. Lower engine all the way and tighten bottom mount screw.
28. Clear bottom of car.
29. Lower the car and reconnect all hoses and MAF pipe previously disconnected.








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Last edited by Mantist; 06-22-2010 at 01:45 PM.
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#2 Old 06-22-2010
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Pretty funny to specify SAE wrench sizes for obviously metric screws!

Could you verify if these procedures correspond to WIS and where they may not?
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#3 Old 06-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
Pretty funny to specify SAE wrench sizes for obviously metric screws!

Could you verify if these procedures correspond to WIS and where they may not?

I knew someone will comment on the SAE and Metric tools mix. But hey, I used them and they fit

No, these procedures were based on my recent DIY only and WIS was not followed. Ask me if you have question(s) on any of the steps on this DIY.


Note, my original post have been updated.
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#4 Old 03-23-2013
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Lifting the engine

If you work on one side at a time, how can you lift the engine 2" - 3"? If, for example, you are working on the passenger's side only, then the engine is still bolted to the frame on the dtiver's side, and vice versa. Trying to jack the engine up will lift the engine and the frame that is bolted to it - lifting the entire car.

PS: 5/8 inch = 15.9 mm, close enough that a 5/8 inch wrench will work on a 16 mm nut or bolt.
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#5 Old 12-16-2013
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I did this job over the weekend with my 2000 slk230 and it was very tough but made it. The driver side was very easy to replace you remove the top screw from the top of the engine using extensions then you remove the steering dampener underneath the car to make way for the engine mount. The passenger side was really hard, you removed top and bottom screws of the engine mount from underneath the car I used WD40 to remove the screws. Removing the engine mount was tough i used 2 floor jacks with 2x4 wood - 1 for the oil pan and another for the transmission bell housing. If you need to do this yourself i suggest not to completely remove the top screw of the engine mount on the passenger side leave it there while you slowly pull the mount downwards.
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#6 Old 05-22-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbevilaqua View Post
If you work on one side at a time, how can you lift the engine 2" - 3"? If, for example, you are working on the passenger's side only, then the engine is still bolted to the frame on the dtiver's side, and vice versa. Trying to jack the engine up will lift the engine and the frame that is bolted to it - lifting the entire car.

PS: 5/8 inch = 15.9 mm, close enough that a 5/8 inch wrench will work on a 16 mm nut or bolt.

You need to lift the engine only half of an inch. It needs to pass the pin on the upper side 1/8" and the hold in place shape on the bottom 1/8" + some maneuvering room. The bolted mount offers this kind of flexibility.
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#7 Old 05-23-2014
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So for those of you that have done this job, what made you do it and did you notice any improvement in things? I'm a believer in motor mount replacement on Mercedes, but only when they need it and that usually means in the 12-15 year time frame. My SLK is at 11 now and might be getting close.

Len
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#8 Old 05-24-2014
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Reason to replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
So for those of you that have done this job, what made you do it and did you notice any improvement in things? I'm a believer in motor mount replacement on Mercedes, but only when they need it and that usually means in the 12-15 year time frame. My SLK is at 11 now and might be getting close.

I got my SLK R170 (sport) at about 90 k miles almost one year ago. I never knew how it would feel any different regarding engine vibrations. One might believe it's by design to be kind of more rigid because it's in the end a sporty car. I had some vibrations transfer to the cabin at stop lights when in drive and hold by the brake... I thought to check the mounts and see if there is any brown leakage sign on them and it was there; a 1/4" brownish line and it was dry, meaning it happened a long time ago...
A second way to tell was when I removed the valve cover to replace the gasket, due to a small leakage. The way you displace that one is by attempting to move it left and right. The engine moved way beyond the point where good mounts would allow it to move. So this made my diagnosis very easy. After taking the mounts off the car, one was no longer containing fluid and was very dry, while the other one had some fluid and as soon as I placed the mount up side down it spilled the remaining fluid. I too hate replacing good parts for no reason, but this was definitely not the case here. I am also a strong believer that prevention replacement is a good thing if we think about reliability, however there are charts with time or mileage charts when to perform what in order to experience some damage.
Finally, the feeling of the car with new mounts is superb. It no longer vibrates, the whole thing runs smoother and I can no longer feel a kind of rough shifting at cold engine (first half mile).
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#9 Old 10-18-2014
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Both engine mounts on my 2001 SLK-230 start leaking and I plan to replace them (and transmission mount too) before this Winter.

1. Is there any recommended brand name or part number? Is Lemforder brand OK?

2. Should I loose the bolts at the transmission mount too before lifting the engine or they are independent?

3. Is there any waring or hint or easy trick to follow the WIS instructions?

Thank,
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#10 Old 10-18-2014
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Lemforder is a good brand. Make sure they are Lemforder though - just had a thread on another forum whereby some Lemforder products were counterfeit. Whatever you do, don't buy Uro or any Chinese made parts.
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#11 Old 10-19-2014
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Post Benefit of Replacing the Engine Mounts

My 1999 SLK started making loud rattling noises. I thought the exhaust system was gone. When I looked under the car, the exhaust was sound (after 200,000 miles!), however, but I noticed that both engine mounts were leaking. I replaced those, and the noise stopped.

PS: You only have to raise the engine a fraction of an inch if the mounts are good. If the fluid is gone, the mounts are compressed (which causes the rattling noise). You then have to raise the engine to the original height of the new mounts, plus the height of the mounting stud.
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#12 Old 10-25-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Lemforder is a good brand. Make sure they are Lemforder though - just had a thread on another forum whereby some Lemforder products were counterfeit. Whatever you do, don't buy Uro or any Chinese made parts.
Thanks Len for warning about the Lemforder counterfeit. Just for my education purpose, does anyone know the differences (besides cost) of?:

1. Lemforder left mount: 2202401917 and 2540501
2. Lemforder right mount: 2202402617 and 2540601

Regards,
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#13 Old 12-22-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
Lemforder is a good brand. Make sure they are Lemforder though - just had a thread on another forum whereby some Lemforder products were counterfeit. Whatever you do, don't buy Uro or any Chinese made parts.
Sokolof, I had a vibration in my 99, 230 (65,000miles) that has driven me mad. Finally this week I replaced the transmission mount (way easy) and the driver side engine mount (easy too). The passenger side mount is a nightmare (for me) so I put off doing it this week.
The vibration is all but gone now. I'm quite sure that replacing the passenger mount will eliminate all vibrations. Just doing the drivers side alone made the car sooooo much more pleasurable to drive. Huge improvement!.
Roger
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#14 Old 12-22-2014
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what is "WIS" instructions?
Thanks,
roger
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#15 Old 12-22-2014
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Where can I find full instructions on removing the motor mounts? Everyone just says "remove the driver side mount, remove the passenger side mount, but they don't mention the nightmare of removing the passenger side mount. It's not about just jacking up and loosening the upper and lower bolts (especially on the passenger side). Is there some place that gives a complete overall overview of the process?
Thanks again,
Roger
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#16 Old 12-22-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogermursick View Post
what is "WIS" instructions?
Thanks,
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Mercedes Workshop Information System.

It's available online for a daily/monthly/yearly fee. See my other note to you in the general 170 section.

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#17 Old 05-04-2015
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Replaced the engine and transmission mounts today. Took a couple of hours and used Febi parts. Well worth doing, the car is much smoother now. About a quarter inch difference between the old engine mounts and the new.
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#18 Old 06-14-2015
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sorry to bring up an old post. i have the drivers engine mount pulled from my slk right now and noticed what a bugger it is to install the new mount. my old mount was clearly blown and had oil pouring out. the new mount has about 1/2" difference or more in height and will not go back in to place very easily. I tried prying - nothing. Do you have to compress the new mount to get it in place of the old one? Any help would be appreciated. kind of at a standstill.
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#19 Old 06-14-2015
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[QUOTE=PS: You only have to raise the engine a fraction of an inch if the mounts are good. If the fluid is gone, the mounts are compressed (which causes the rattling noise). You then have to raise the engine to the original height of the new mounts, plus the height of the mounting stud.[/QUOTE]

Is this the trick to get the new mount in place? I jacked up my engine at the pan 2-3 inches, but the prev mount was completely shot and came out easily. Do I have to jack engine support up less to fit in the new mount. This new one seriously won't budge into place as it is much taller than the old (bad) one on the driver side. I also have the wheels completely turned to the right as instructed.
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#20 Old 06-15-2015
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You can't compress the mount, you have to raise the engine. I found that after a bit of wriggling about it went in easily on both sides. Don't know if being a UK right hand drive set up made it easier.
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