power chip slk 200 K - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Performance MODS for the R171 Tuning and Performance modifications for your SLK

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#1 Old 06-08-2014
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power chip slk 200 K

hello friends .I was interested in purchasing a power chip for slk 200 k 171.
I would like to know your opinions.
The chip name is : "speed box benzpower" and is online shopping.
In the installation instructions they say that it has to be connected to the intake air temperature sensor. The chip comes with two connectors that are inserted into two other female MAF. I have heard there are IAT that come with five cables.
Anyone know where is the AIT in the slk 200K? How to istal chip power in slk 200? Do you have experience with chip power in slk 200K?
Thanks
here you have the link
http://www.chipdepotencia.info/?zeni...q3&language=en
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#2 Old 06-08-2014
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Cant say much about it but its cheap !!

Trouble is there so many ecu remaps etc about its finding a good one .
But its a bit cheap for my liking .!!??
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#3 Old 06-08-2014
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yes Delucas. It just cost only 100 euros. It has a 50% discount.
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#4 Old 06-08-2014
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The majority of these power chips promising great increase in horsepower are just scams or known as snake oil. A couple members have had stated success. do a 'search' top right for 'power chip' and see if you can find the threads/posts where members have had success and where they got their chip from. Good luck
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#5 Old 06-08-2014
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Totally bogus. You can't fool the system without getting into other problems. I worked with Engine Sw. development for nine years, so I know what I'm talking about.

The only way to increase power, is total remapping of the software in the ECU itself.
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#6 Old 06-08-2014
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I'm with Gork on this one !
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#7 Old 06-08-2014
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#8 Old 06-08-2014
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Sorry , and especially with El señor Banks !!!
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#9 Old 06-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredyslk View Post
yes Delucas. It just cost only 100 euros. It has a 50% discount.
Save your money and go for ...........

Kleemann manifold
K & N air filter

And a supercharger kit

Then a remap !
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#10 Old 06-08-2014
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Please do not put that crap on your car. Please do not be cheap when it's about your ECU as well.

For power increase I would recommend a custom remap (not copy paste ECU files). Either change to a smaller pulley + remap, or just a remap, but please stay away from those junk. "Cheap" isn't a good reason.
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#11 Old 06-09-2014
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Engine Control Systems 101

Here comes a short explanation why "Inline Sensor tricking systems" don't work.

Todays diagnostic systems are built in a robust way, so you can in most of the cases continue to drive, even if a sensor or component fails.

Basically, you have following "Input sensors"
MAF, Mas Air Flow
MAP, Manifold Air Pressure
AT, Ambient Temperature
AP, Ambient Pressure

Then you have lot of system sensors, like Crank Position, CAM positions, Fuel pressure, Oil pressure, Oil temp, Lambda value etc.

Using values from those sensors, together with internal parameters like engine displacement, rpm, manifold displacement, crankshaft position etc.
You can determine the airflow trough the engine, and together with the Lambda sensor, adjust the fuel injection.
None of the components above are exact, so the ECU allows for an adaption of the value from the sensor.
In other words, a sensor that should have a nominal value=1.0 can actually have any value between 0.8 and 1.2
The ECU starts with value 1 as a reference, and then measures the outcome.
If it is not according to the expected outcome, it adjusts/adapts the sensor value by adding or subtracting 0.01 from the measured sensor value.
It will continue so, until the outcome is as expected. This takes several driving cycles, but normally you are within the correct range after 5-10 cycles.
(You can test this by lifting the battery for 10 minutes. You will probably get the feeling that the engine is more harsh, during the first one or two drive cycles)
This also allows for the sensors to drift during their lifespan. The ECU simply compensates for the drift.

Even if a component fails, it's value can be calculated by using the data from the remaining sensors, to create a backup value and allow you drive the car, often with reduced power and rpm, so you can take the car to the workshop.

So if anyone tries to fool the system, by connecting some other electronics to the MAF, MAP or AT, the engine will smell the rat, for instance by checking the Lambda value, and just compensate.
If you go outside the area of compensation, (0.79 or 1.21 in the example above), you will get a component failure lamp, and in worst case, end up in "Limp Home"
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#12 Old 06-09-2014
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Yeah! What Gork said!


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#13 Old 06-09-2014
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And I'd recommend an SLK55.
I had the same dilemma until I settled for the advice given above.
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#14 Old 06-09-2014
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It has all been said above. I echo them and implore you not to do it.
Do not try to uprate the power of a 200, other than a smaller s/c wheel, you will not achieve anything at all - other than heartache. Even then, with a Kleeman kit at 1000€, it is only another 30hp max.
The 200 is what it is and does the job very well. I am afraid you purchased the wrong car if you want quicker. You and I do not have to drive quickly down here! Why not just relax and enjoy what we have and others do not..!
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#15 Old 06-10-2014
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Dear Friends: I knew that in slk world I will find the answer to my queestion.
I am impressed of the level of your comentaries.
All the questions are resolved when anyone has a question.
Gork congratulatios. Your answer is like of an aerospace Engineer coment.
Friens it was just curiosity, and I wanted to know your opinios.....
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#16 Old 06-10-2014
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anyway , could you tell me where is the intake air sensor? or if it is integrated on the MAP?
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#17 Old 06-10-2014
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The MAF usually also measures the intake air temperature, since that value is used to calculate the mass flow. The MAP, or the Manifold Air Pressure, is located on the intake manifold itself (somewhere)

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#18 Old 06-10-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredyslk View Post
anyway , could you tell me where is the intake air sensor? or if it is integrated on the MAP?
I think you mean, for the intake air sensor, the mass flow air sensor. This is the first sensor on the intake, with the manifold air pressure (sometimes called manifold absolute pressure) being the next.
Do be careful with these as the ECU is constantly monitoring the ratio between these two. If it suspects anything - especially with the manifold pressure, it will slap you into limp-home mode.

It is difficult to describe, and I really do not want to pull my intake system apart to photograph things! Luckily, there is a post in the archive that will help you:
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-gen...af-sensor.html

Pull the airbox cover off and underneath, you will see the MAF - further back on the manifold is the MAP, it is partially hidden, but you are looking for a component that looks like this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mercedes-r171...-/151301866824
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