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Performance MODS for the R170 Tuning and Performance modifications for your SLK

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#61 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Well after 2 days locked in the Workshop, phones switched off .........................

Steering Wheel buttons all working 99.9 % faultlessly after a lot of messin', at one point it was all gonna get chucked in the bin

I have Volume + and - , Call Answer / Hang Up, Track /Radio \/ and /\ and then the 2 extreme left "Menu Buttons" are programmed that upper one Switches to Radio, lower one Switches to Media SD Card ................

The 2 "Menu Buttons" are redundant on the R170 as the Dash Cluster does not have all the Menus etc that the "more modern" Benzes like W220 R171 and W203 etc have, so I made good use of them 2 as well

The hassles I had is due to where I put the Resistors in the Switch Plugs, it is very tight when fitted on the Airbag Assy, the wires have to bend at almost 90 degrees as soon as they come out of the Plug, this fractured a couple of Resistors on the first attempt

Second go, both Switches were fine, but somehow, despite me modifying the SWC 1 Pin that came out of the Horn Button Module thingy, it was somehow corrupting the resistances, they worked fine on multimeter but the H/U stubbornly refused to recognise a button press

I ended up wiring both Switches direct to the SWC1 wire from Clockspring and bingo they all programmed in a treat

Steering Wheel is all assembled for the final time now, and it's all working fine

The only thing left to do is modify the "spare shifter" which arrived yesterday, and then fit that and plug it in to the 2 "Paddle Wires" that are waiting patiently coiled up behind the Shifter that is in the Car

It's not as tidy as I'd have liked with wiring inside the Steering Wheel, but I only see that when I remove the Air Bag, and it's all connected nicely and won't chafe etc, so that'll do for now................

I've proved it works and can be done !!

I have a complete spare Airbag with Buttons, one day, I will build the Mk2 Switch / Horn Button Module set to get it all as neat as I would like .................

The trick, from what I've learned in all this will be to ditch the little MB Circuit Board in Horn Button Module, and run all the Wiring etc inside it's Plastic Casing, and use a smaller custom made PCB for Horn Buttons and Clocksprings Plug in pins !!

Then I'll also use Micro Resistors inside the Switches themselves, and just hard wire to the Pins where the Clockspring Plugs in, which is what I've done with the Paddles

When one of our youngsters comes up, or when I work out how to do a U Tube Video on my Android Phone, I'll do a Video, but for now you will have to work it out from pictures ...........

The first couple show the (untidy) wiring behind Airbag, but hell it all works, that's the real result

I know I can get it tidier though, using the OEM Plugs like I have on the Paddles, (remember this is OEM for a W203 / R171) and not R170 which had none of this malarky

The Brown wire coiled up down by Steering Wheel Bolt is actually SWC 2 to the Android H/U, I'm not using this right now, both Left and Right Switches are wired to White SWC 1 .............

There is a very slight glitch .................

I will probably try the Left Switch on SWC 2 channel as I think 8 buttons on SWC 1 is too much for one channel

On a very odd occasion, the H/U mixes up the SD Media (lower Menu) button for the "Track / Radio Station Down \/ button", it has happened twice now after many many switch off and re boot fiddle with buttons cycles

Other than that everything works flawlessly. I think just having 4 buttons (Right set) on SWC 1, and 4 Buttons (Left set) on SWC 2 will make that go away ................. 15 minutes at weekend to try that.

The resistances on these 2 Buttons are nowhere near each other in ohms value by the way, I'm certain it is to do with the H/U getting mixed up, it copes fine with just 6 Buttons programmed onto SWC 1 Channel

Pix :-
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#62 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Hi again

It's my OCD with the way it's done at the moment, it is just not how I'd like it to be and I know I can improve it with a Mk 2 version !!

Ok so it all works, just the one minor glitch that happens sometimes where the 2 Left side Buttons get "confused" as my last post states.

The Blue wire has a spade, it is the ground through the Clockspring, which earths the whole metal Airbag Frame containing the Horn Button Module into which the Paddles are plugged as per factory.

Everything inside the Steering Wheel (Horn Relay Buttons, blue arrows in the pic below, Paddles and H/U Buttons) are all NO Switched Grounds, the H/U's Steering Wheel Control Buttons have to all have a different resistance to earth for them to be individually identified by the H/U ...................

Between 25 ohm to 1k ohm seems to be working OK.

I am going to use a minimum of 100 ohm difference in the mk2 set of Parts, as I think the 2 buttons that sometimes get "confused" maybe they are too close after all, one is 180 ohm and one is 150 ohm !!

Yellow is the Horn Relay Wire, which connects through into Horn Button Module and the White SWC 1 is now hard wired to the 2 Whites from the Switches resistor packs, but this should be in between the 2 Paddles "out to Clockspring + & - Cables" in the top 3 pin plug, you can just about see where I chopped it off in the post above

I have now bought a big chunk of "Veroboard", (prototyping PCB board), and I intend to get rid of the larger green Mercedes pcb which has all the redundant CAN stuff on it ...............
My first attempt has proved it is unworkable to re jig it as it's a multi layer jobbie, hence I had to bypass the MB Circuitry and wire direct to Clockspring SWC 1 White wire

I think I will also Wire SWC 2 to the Left Switch Pack, and keep SWC 1 on the Right Switch Pack, I will do this over the weekend to prove (or not) the Switch Confusion theories

I will make my own simple circuit board to go in the plastic housing, it should be electrically quite a simple circuit, the whole chebang can then run through this when done, and I can rewire the Clockspring to this, as it was intended by MB on the Car models that this Steering Wheel actually came off of

I may try and integrate the 8 resistors inside here as well, but bear in mind, some guys would find this easy, sadly micro electronics is not my forte, I'm just having a go out of necessity

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#63 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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V8 Install

OK, I'm back again he he he

The V8 M113 ball is rolling and the snowball effect has kicked in, things are happening very quickly at the moment ...............

I've 99.9% bought a V8 S500 to break up for all the parts

Been doing some digging, there is an M113 V8 Car built by a German Tuning Company, really nice install, the sort of job I am looking to acheive, it is using all MB Electronics and looks just like it came from the MB Factory Regarding the V8 Conversion, I'll post up a few pics below ................

The Silver V8 Car is the one with the M113 5.0 done by a German Tuning firm and the Blue Car is my V6 R170, it looks obvious to me that both F & R Brakes are uprated, the Calipers on the Silver Car definitely look like V8 S500, not sure if the Discs are S500, but as I've just bought a W220 V8 S500 to break up for this project I should have most all of the bits for the V8 Conversion .................

1st two Pics is the V8 Donor Car, got to go to get that, about 120 mile round trip

After that is the German V8 Silver R170 and my V6 Blue R170 , I'll try and get the piccies side by side so you guys can see the comparisons, I've just looked comparing my S Class Brakes, Calipers look identical to the Silver V8 R170 so I will be keeping all these parts and have a test fit session one day soon, If they fit then I'll overhaul the Calipers. I'm not sure about the Discs .............

The Discs on S500 actually look a bigger offset, can anyone tell me if the ones on the Silver V8 Car look like SLK 32 R170 Brakes ?????
Be handy to know exactly what they came off


Have a close look at the 2 Engine Bays, everything has stayed where it is located on the V6 Car, even the Radiator on the Silver V8 SLK is still on it's original mountings, (see the 2 square holes in the Hood Landing Panel with bolts in them)

It is just the Fan Shroud and Top Hose that is different, Top Hose looks like a V8 one, however I'm wondering if he is using a Viscous Fan on the Water Pump Boss looking at that offset Fan Shroud, but that said, the Fan Controller is still on the Left Inner Wing, same place as mine, however all said and done the Cooling Fan will hardly be a big issue to sort out

I reckon this will be one very easy conversion

https://youtu.be/OoQksOt3d5g

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#64 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Ah well, I went to Glasgow to get that W220 parts car, a neighbour drove me down there.

I took some tools and parts to get the Airmatic Suspension up, but upon arrival it was obvious to me that there was no way on gods earth that Car was going to drive 180 miles back to mine

I spent a couple of hours going over it, repaired the Airmatic Pipe, got it to the "No Airmatic Suspension Faults stage", but stubbornly it still refused to pump up !!

It was at this point I spotted on SDS that the Car was not charging, and it's Battery was down to 11 volts, which was probably why the Car would not pump up, and although I had a fresh Battery with me, once the Engine was warm it also developed a misfire, and there was many many other faults, and thus very little decent spare parts to be harvested for my own W220, the Engine and Trans would have required possible significant work before being able to fit it to my R170, so I packed up my gear and bid the guy farewell !!

I'm of the opinion now that I will buy a dearer Car to break up, something perhaps with a short MOT and needing an expensive repair or 2 but with good modules etc for W220 spares, and a faultless Engine, Diff and Trans for the R170, which is what the guy had described the Glasgow Car as

Watching a few on EBay now, will wait until they have been on a while and then make a low offer to reflect collection costs

Cheers for now,

Dave
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#65 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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S500 discs are the wrong offset. You will need discs from an SLK32, C32/43 or CLK55 (330mm). however the calipers from the S500 will work no problem. As far as the mechanical swap goes, you should have no issues and shouldn't have to move anything. You might need exhaust manifolds from a CLK430/55 to clear the steering box. the radiator shroud that some people are using are that from a CLK55 and C43. I went with electric fans up front and no shroud or fan in the back. of the 2 fans in front, one is ran by the ECU the other I run from a switch. There should be no reason to move the radiator. it's possible that the sway bar will hit the oil pan and will need to be lowered. just some observations from all my research.
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#66 Old 1 Week Ago
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Dave - just read the whole thread and absolutely love what you're doing. I shall continue to watch with interest. Sadly my knowledge of car electrics is simply "red to red, green to green and blue to bits" so some of it goes right over my head - but I do get the general gist of it.

Should be an utter animal once done

Cheers, Dave (me too - us Daves love our cars!!)
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#67 Old 1 Week Ago
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Hi,

@Turdo2 ,

Thanks for the info, it's very useful, I'll get the correct 330mm discs now I know exactly which ones, I can see without removing the Wheels that the S Class ones are the wrong offset with my W220 and R170 parked next to each other Good to know the Calipers will fit OK, that will save a bit of dosh

I'll also try and find the correct CLK V8 Ex Manifolds, will be much easier than home fabricating from stock V6 & V8 or spending mega bucks getting Custom Headers built

Plenty choices Fan wise, like I said earlier, not rocket science, but I would like to use the MB stuff if at all possible as it's well over specced and runs from a PWM Signal from ME2.8 ECU.

@Mr Bounce ,

Thanks for following, there won't be a lot of action right now, as I am now using the Car for the Summer, before installing V8 this winter.

I might do some updates as I do some little jobs, like the 330mm Brake Conversion etc.

I have just changed Front Springs and Seats and both lower swivels and got rid of an annoying front end rattle over bumpy roads !!

I'm going to do the rear Springs and Spring Seats next, I have an annoying intermittent creaky squeaky sometimes on a cold dry morning, when going slowly up my drive.

It's had all new Rear Arms and Shocks, so I suspect Spring Seats, it's that kind of noise, doesn't do it when wet !!
I hadn't noticed it when I drive, but Mel took the SLK to work the other morning and as she drove up the drive I could hear it as she went past me

Final job on the to do list is the Prop UJ, I noticed it was very slightly tight in one place when I fitted a new Centre Bearing and Rubber way back, and it has a very slight "Proppy" type harmonic for the first mile or so from cold which disappears presumably as the UJ warms up

I'll look for a s/h prop and rebuild that first then I can just swap it over, don't want the Car off the road, I'm enjoying it in the nice weather we're having right now

Having said that the car is driving beautifully now, with all the horrible rattles etc now gone since I got it in December and fettled it over the last few months

Cheers for now, Dave
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#68 Old 3 Hours Ago
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Hi again,


Well that prop harmonic has gone now the weather has warmed up and since the Car has been in almost daily use, so I've scored a good used prop off EBay, will "monitor and repair if necessary"

I've also decided for a bit of fun, to dress the Car up a little so to all but the most expert discerning eye it will end up looking and sounding like a Brabus R170

I scored a pair of polished Stainless Roll Over Bars for 90 and a spare Handbrake for Chroming plus a few other bitties

I have just finished a quick '3 stage' exterior polishing on the Car, a light wet T Cut, G10 and Wax, all by hand, it only took me around an hour but the wee beastie has come up real nice

I decides to drive a few miles to a nice spot and get some pics ...............

Huh, try and find a nice spot near me with no tourists on Easter weekend, I waited until I thought they would be all munching their Dinner, by which time it was overcast and starting to get dark

The best pics I could come up with was these, and as soon as I started photos then some moron tourist had to park right next to me and around 7 of them got out of a way overloaded hire car and started wandering around, "roll on October when they all disappear again ...............

But yeah, below are the best ones I got since the Polishing

I'm going to use the 3rd one for the Desktop Wallpaper on the Android until I get a nicer one

Next weekends job is to fit the Stainless Roll Over Bars, and Re Badge it as a "Brabus" assuming all the goodies have arrived ...................
I've also sent a spare Handbrake off to be Chromed, the Brabus's had no trim over their polished Handbrake also Stainless Roll Over Bars and various Brabus badges in various locations

The only 5 V8 Cars Brabus ever built were all slightly different anyways , I have good pictures all round of 2 of them, they both have differences in Badging and Wheels from each other so as my Car is getting bigger Brakes, Wheels and M113 Engine over the coming winter this is good for a bit of fun, and will end up as a nice "Brabus replica" for sensible money :-


Initial searching suggests I can get proper 18" Brabus Wheels like the ones in the video for around 1000 needing a repaint or 2k brand new, I've just put Brand new Tyres all round my Car so the wheels will be the last job to do

I certainly wouldn't be able to afford a genuine Brabus R170, and have never seen one for sale, they are like the holy grail of R170's

Next job is to Valet the dusty interior and treat the leather seats !!

Donor Car wise, I have looked at so much "sh 1 t" recently that I have now decided the way forward is to squirrel away some more Cash into the "project pot" and just buy a decent S500 for a reasonable amount (1500 to 2k) rather than looking at all the junk for up to a grand







Cheers for now,

Dave
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