My 4.3L V8 swap - Page 19 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Performance MODS for the R170 Tuning and Performance modifications for your SLK

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#361 Old 02-14-2019
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That 6 speed should handle it just fine! they are overengineerd underrated gearboxes, you might have more gearbox wear with a single mass flywheel and unsprung clutch but like you said: some people don't like to share information, glad that is changing 😉

to remove the rear axles you will have to use a press (mine were also in there very tight), be carefull with a puller, I have bent my hubs trying to push the axles out
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#362 Old 02-26-2019
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Hi,

Looks pretty.

What Engine is the Flywheel and Clutch you're using designed for ?

Cheers Dave
it's designed for the M112 in the SLK320 and Crossfire. (also works in some C cars?)
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#363 Old 02-26-2019
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That 6 speed should handle it just fine! they are overengineerd underrated gearboxes, you might have more gearbox wear with a single mass flywheel and unsprung clutch but like you said: some people don't like to share information, glad that is changing 😉

to remove the rear axles you will have to use a press (mine were also in there very tight), be carefull with a puller, I have bent my hubs trying to push the axles out
Good to clarify, I used a sledge hammer and an old socket! A few hefty wacks and it did the trick... I found that getting the little indentation out of the axle nut was easier if you just tighten the nut a little... bad idea! as it just tightens the axle even more. After learning this, I did the passenger side without tightening the axle nut more and the axle came out much easier.
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#364 Old 02-26-2019
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Solving Problems left and right here!

Got the CLK diff in. It is about 1.5" wider at the axle flanges and roughly half an inch longer. not to mention taller, but that didn't affect anything.

LET IT BE KNOWN HERE FIRST!!!! when putting a 2.82 from a CLK55 into a SLK230 platform you need:

1. CLK55 axles. they are the same length as the SLK axles, but the CLK axles compress! SLK axles don't. wierd.
2. 3-ear yolk from 2005+ Chrysler Crossfire (and maybe SLK320?) spline and seal is different, SLK230 yolk didn't work.
3. rear driveshaft section from Manual Crossfire. It is .5" shorter than the Auto rear section and takes up the extra length of the CLK55 diff
4. remove ~4mm spacer from front mount to make up height difference so driveshaft is in line.

Also go the clutch in, but that only took about an hour of the entire weekend.
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#365 Old 03-01-2019
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looking good! I really like how all these different mb parts fit together very nicely!

did you have to lower the tranny because it touches the top if the tunnel? I had this problem when swapping the getrag 5 speed for the chrysler 6 speed (since your 6 speed box is very simular)
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#366 Old 03-01-2019
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looking good! I really like how all these different mb parts fit together very nicely!

did you have to lower the tranny because it touches the top if the tunnel? I had this problem when swapping the getrag 5 speed for the chrysler 6 speed (since your 6 speed box is very simular)
No. it JUST clears. If I had a soft motor mount on the drivers side, I bet it would rock up and hit it. but I dont, so no worries!

I, too, am impressed with how everything works together. I'm also very thankful!
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#367 Old 03-02-2019
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Hi,

I love your determination and problem solving skills, and I love how you are getting on with your Car project, plus you have achieved much where many have ended up giving up ............. KUDOS to you

However, personally I would have shortened the Front half of that Prop-shaft, or drilled out the spot welds on the Body and moved the Tunnels Centre Bearing Mounting pressing back enough to get all 4 of the Centre Bearing Mount Bolts in ............... 2 x M8 Bolts and a lack of real support like that is simply not enough for the Torque a 5.5 pushes out, I would hate to see the carnage when that lets go

And yes I know I sound like a miserable old prophet of doom git but I'm very anal about keeping a "Factory Standard" when I modify any car

I sincerely hope that my observation helps here,

Cheers Dave
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#368 Old 03-02-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi,

I love your determination and problem solving skills, and I love how you are getting on with your Car project, plus you have achieved much where many have ended up giving up ............. KUDOS to you <img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

However, personally I would have shortened the Front half of that Prop-shaft, or drilled out the spot welds on the Body and moved the Tunnels Centre Bearing Mounting pressing back enough to get all 4 of the Centre Bearing Mount Bolts in ............... 2 x M8 Bolts and a lack of real support like that is simply not enough for the Torque a 5.5 pushes out, I would hate to see the carnage when that lets go <img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

And yes I know I sound like a miserable old prophet of doom git but I'm very anal about keeping a "Factory Standard" when I modify any car <img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

I sincerely hope that my observation helps here,

Cheers Dave
that is not the propshaft bearing plate on those pictures, that plate with 2 m8 bolts holds the shifter up &#x1f609;
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#369 Old 03-02-2019
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Ahhhhhh OK, thanks for pointing that out

Guess I should have gone to "Specsavers"

So apologies, please disregard my last post and forgive my ignorance

The only 2 SLK's I have worked on since their production run over the last 20 years are my customers Red Facelift 320 V6 and my own Blue Facelift 320 V6 both of which are Tiptronic Auto Trans

I'll shuffle off now and go and carry on modifying Steering Wheel Buttons

Cheers Dave
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#370 Old 03-03-2019
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aaaand results are good!

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#371 Old 03-05-2019
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sounds amazing! maybe it's time to install a wideband afr sensor/gauge &#x1f609; I also use 1 for safety and tuning
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#372 Old 03-06-2019
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Originally Posted by ndrmini View Post
sounds amazing! maybe it's time to install a wideband afr sensor/gauge &#x1f609; I also use 1 for safety and tuning
Hi,

Yes excellent Idea, I used one on my Quad Cam V6 Stage Rally Car, had the ability to data log which was a great help getting the fuelling spot on

Innovate kit

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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#373 Old 03-13-2019
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sounds amazing! maybe it's time to install a wideband afr sensor/gauge &#x1f609; I also use 1 for safety and tuning
I have one. I just dont have a live gauge. I use it through Tuner Studio when working on my tune.
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#374 Old 03-16-2019
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Epic. I absolutely love what you've done!
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#375 Old 03-18-2019
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi,

Yes excellent Idea, I used one on my Quad Cam V6 Stage Rally Car, had the ability to data log which was a great help getting the fuelling spot on

Innovate kit

HTH,

Cheers Dave
one step ahead of you!
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#376 Old 04-16-2019
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I've been wanting to try some 0-60's. turns out it's really hard to hold a phone and shift. tried anyway!


need more grip and less traction control!

Do you folks disable the ASR by unplugging the ABS module?
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#377 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hi Yes keep up the good work.

If I were you guys as you both have ME2.0 R170's now, (so you really gotta work with them), run the part numbers for dash cluster, tcu, and abs / esp / bas and see if they are the same for a V6 Car, I can give you a V6 VIN to enter into EPC if you want ....................
Dave I have a thought. If I convert my SLK to ME2.8 (harness swap from newer SLK), then what does that leave us? It leaves us with an ME2.8 car with a matching key, Immobilizer module and ECU, but still no V8 ECU.

Some people say you can take the EEPROM responsible for immobilization from these ME2.8 ECU's and swap it with the EEPROM's in other 2.8 ECU's. (heating and soldiering). so would it then be possible to just use an V8 ECU and swap in the V6 immo EEPROM into it? (so now key, immo matches V8 ECU)

I would need photos of both ECU's out of the cases to see if they are laid out similarly. I can point to exactly where that EEPROM is on my V8 one.

The problem I see with this is that 170 platforms still use DAS 2 (with a separate immobilizer module), even though they are the newer ECU's. EVERY V8 ECU uses DAS 3 and come from EIS cars... therefore the EEPROM swap could potentially not be effective.

another thing different is how that ECU reads different inputs, such as throttle... but that could be sorted with SDS.. and that's where I would be helpless. Remember all the crossfire people trying to get it to work? Apparently only a few people have been successful and they are keeping their secrets safe...

I had one of the Crossfire "experts" offer to help me for $1800.. he said he could get my car running as factory turn-key. then he disappeared and I never heard from him again.. Then, after commenting on a V8 crossfire youtube video that was playing music instead of actual car noise, The guy responded calling my SLK slow and I decided I didn't want to deal with those kind of people..

anyways.....
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#378 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

I can't give you much more info than I already have, yes it can be done, yes I will be doing it to my Car.

I think you have hit the nail square on the head regarding DAS 2 Immo and DAS 3 very unlikely a chip swap would work and it is a risky business anyway ...............

I have done several chip swaps, like for like, i.e. ME 2.8 V8 DAS 3 to ME2.8 V8 DAS 3 same p/n ECU's. It is very easy to damage the chips or the multi layer circuit boards. I get lucky, a lot of times but would only do it these days as a last resort on older Cars as a cost effective method, with the Customer signing a disclaimer :wink

I have also turned several into paperweights when I first started doing that !!

To do a Chip swap you will need excellent micro soldering skills and equipment even though this is one of the "easier" chips to swap, (8 legs on 2 sides, as opposed to newer ECU's which are now 16 legs on each of the 4 sides, because the Immo is in the main CPU) !!
If it doesn't work you are back to square one and you don't know whether you have screwed up the Chip itself, the multi layer PCB etc etc, or if it is simply incompatibility between DAS 2 and DAS 3 ......................

As I have said before, Virginising the ECU (EEPROMMING), and then using SDS in anger to configure the unlocked ECU is the only way to do this with guaranteed success

It's not that us guys who know how are being awkward, there are a lot of different scenarios, you have to be doing the job to do it !!
It is just not as easy as writing a step by step guide, there is no way I could type a "War & Peace thick Book" on how to do this, you just have to get your teeth into it one step at a time.

Reading this thread through you have overcome bigger issues

HTH, Cheers Dave
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Hi,
Dave, I'm curious to see how it goes for you. If I had a ton of money, I'd be researching how get around that little chip. I would not be surprised if it's something as simple as a jumper wire to connect a ground on the board.

It all depends on whether the drive authorization is controlled in a chip or has functions outside the chip that can be jumpered/bypassed... I'm optimistic as usual, and I'm also like you - tell me I cant and see what happens!
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#380 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

I don't think by passing the chip would be an option, someone somewhere in the world would have boasted about it on the net by now

That little chip contains the Immo Data which has to match the other theft relevant parts, but also does a lot more .......................

The VIN Number that is read out by diag machines is held here, and also the "Tune MAP" is chosen by what is stored in the Chip too, so if you simply swap the chip from a Car with a different Engine, it will not run right, maybe not at all, I've never tried it, I was going to but was advised not to for that reason as well as the potential of wrecking chip / ecu

You just have to virgin the VIN and Immo Data to un lock it, now it will plug in and start up, then use SDS to put in the VIN and synch it

It really is that easy

HTH, Cheers Dave
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