Preparing for performance mods pre fl 230. CAI - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Performance MODS for the R170 Tuning and Performance modifications for your SLK

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#1 Old 11-13-2016
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Preparing for performance mods pre fl 230. CAI

Background
So I figured when starting the performance modding of my -99 230, I would just start with the start - the cold air intake, air filter box etc pre supercharger. So to know where the bottlenecks are, I made up a DMDPG inspired from these articles Eliminating negative boost. Here is my DMDPG. :



I made three points of measure. 1st just in front of the intake funnel, behind the grille:



The next point of logging data is in the air filter box, below the filter, hence the difference between no one and no two would give the pressure fall trough the intake snorkel.
The third point was the hole in which the oil catch return hose enters the air filter box AFTER the filter, hence difference between no 2 and no 3 would give the pressure fall trough the filter.
Ideally, I would have measured just at the supercharger intake, to see how much is lost from the box to the SS, but I was not able to make a convenient connection here, so that part of the system is still without data.

I made a connection point where I could swap the three hoses and lead them into the cabin:


Then the hose was lead under the hood, around the A-pillar and in trough the window:


Audun, my assistant, ready to note negative boosts:



Method
Pressures was measured at WOT in 2nd gear (MT) in the same piece of road, slightly uphill, from 2000 - 6000 RPM, and peak value (typically at the high rev end) was noted as accurately as possible

Results
Measure point one, behind grille:
4,5 inches of water negative pressure
(Interesting part is, at 100km/h, at cruising conditions, there were 2 inches of positive pressure here)

Measure point two, in air filter box, before air filter:
17 inches of water negative pressure

Measure point three, in air filter box, after air filter:
18 inches of water negative pressure

Discussion
While the data shows that the SLK cold air intake and air filter system is probably no worse than that of the Audi S4 and Subaru Liberty RS, there is a lot of parasittic drag in the system, of which the filter comprises only 5,5%, the pre intake duct area 25% and the intake snorkel a massive 69,5%!
Needless to say, there is a new snorkel design on it's way. Also, with a better system for collecting air in to the snorkel, there is a potential of getting rid of another 5-6,5 inches of water of pressure fall, converting it in to a positive pressure exceeding the drop over the filter given a good design.

Comments are welcome

cheers,
Tor
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#2 Old 11-13-2016
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Tor,

Interesting projects and initial results.

Thanks for documenting and I look forward to reading your progress.
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#3 Old 11-20-2016
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Lots of work, but good info. Having worked with textile air filtration and waste collection, I learned that the smallest opening is what is going to determine how much flow you have. If you look at the snorkel, the intake opening is about 2/3s the size of the connection to the air filter box. This is all the air you will ever get into the engine. I removed the complete snorkel assembly and replaced it with a 2-1/2" to 3" connector on the air box and ran a piece of 3" flexible intake pipe to where the snorkel originally was. I don't have any hard data, but I'm sure it flows a lot better than it did. One thing you may try to find that would make your testing easier would be a Magnehelic gauge that is used for measuring vacuum and pressure. Dwyer Differential Pressure) They come in many range scales and would make your setup and testing a lot easier. No more tubes and water columns in the car! Very interesting project and I, too am interested in your results. Keep us posted!
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#4 Old 11-22-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvel View Post
.... If you look at the snorkel, the intake opening is about 2/3s the size of the connection to the air filter box. .....
Thanks for the interest in my project! Actually, the start of the snorkel is slightly less than half of the connection to the box, roughly 18 sq cm vs 38 sq cm. And the intake is even smaller. This is a pre fl though, I don't know whether the design was made less bad with the face lift model. I'll post more of the progress shortly

cheers,
Tor
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#5 Old 11-22-2016
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This is interesting, does it have any application/benefit for non-supercharged engines?
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#6 Old 11-29-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottF View Post
This is interesting, does it have any application/benefit for non-supercharged engines?
I do not know, and it remains to see wether it has any practical effect on a super charged engine as well. But logics say that it is more efficient if the engine, or the supercharger, do not need to work against a negative pressure. 17 inches of water negative pressure equals 0,6 psi, and I think the 230K engine has a pressure of 7 psi in the manifold. One would expect higher pressure in to the supercharger would produce higher pressure out of the supercharger.

Cheers,
Tor
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#7 Old 02-17-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor Rabe View Post
I do not know, and it remains to see wether it has any practical effect on a super charged engine as well. But logics say that it is more efficient if the engine, or the supercharger, do not need to work against a negative pressure. 17 inches of water negative pressure equals 0,6 psi, and I think the 230K engine has a pressure of 7 psi in the manifold. One would expect higher pressure in to the supercharger would produce higher pressure out of the supercharger.

Cheers,
Tor
I did find this very interesting. Since I am not one to spend money without knowing if a mod works, what I did was only remove the little snorkel extension to the grill area. So now the air box opening is the ~3in circle instead of the small oval. I have not noticed drivability issues related to "heat" while at idle and it makes a noticeable difference at WOT. I Also removed the BOV "h" tubing that redirects back into supercharger inlet. It changes sound a little, but I think in a good way. (you can hear BOV when you let off gas pedal on cold starts)
Anyway, since you like to perform tests, find out if it really makes a significant temperature difference. I would think that once moving anyway, enough air will circulate to feed the box fresh air since the opening still points forward. Also, since the box is still there, it protects from some heat. It's not hard at all to remove any of this and it can easily go back to stock, so give it a try.
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#8 Old 05-31-2017
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It's been a long time, and I have done a few mods I'd like to report. I've now written two looong posts, both have beed rejected and deleted in the posting process, so I'm trying this before I continue with my third try...
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#9 Old 05-31-2017
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Post testing CAI

This turned out to be somewhat disappointing, mostly because of the limited data from the pre testing. These are the hard facts:
Original CAI Custom CAI v.0.1
Inches of water Behind grille 4,5 1,5
negative pressure
@ WOT / 6000 rpm Airbox pre filter 17 14
Airbox post filter 18 not tested
However, it was clear to us that there were a significant difference at lower RPM's, stil WOT. The pre test had high values over most of the speed range, where as th post test had mostly very low values, almost up to red line.

So I decided it was desireable to get rid of the old snorkel and went on with a new CF design



Then I got rid of all the gitters and tea strainers in the intake duct,



refurbished the calipers and put on new rotors, ceramic pads and Vmax stainless steel braided hoses

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#10 Old 05-31-2017
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Supercharger modifications

Next up was removing the h-bend in the air box returning warm air into the supercharger, smoothing and polishing the rough interior of the intake snorkel for the SS and porting the SS. Then replaced the bearings and the oil.


I put on an oversize belt pulley and machined down the SS pulley to 87 mm, increasing the gear ratio from 1,97 to 2,55, giving the SS 15300 spins a minute at red line

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#11 Old 05-31-2017
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Exhaust modifications

I had a leak in my exhaust manifold, a crack in the welding at cyl 1. This was a perfect excuse for ordering a supersprint 4-2-1 stainless steel header.



At the same time, I ordered the Supersprint muffler



However, Supersprint insist on using 2" pipes, and they also managed to put in a lot of unnecessay bends pre the muffler, so I had to modify them a bit, making it all 2,5" with a race cat in between.



I have an adjustable 3-5 bar fuel pressure regulator lying around that will go in along with the full remap, hopefully quite soon. In the mean time the car runs with erratic behaviour between 3000-4000 rpms, but otherwise very promising. The sound is horrifyingly extatic but unfortunately, there is a bit too much of it, so a free flow slim muffler is in the mail.

To be continued

Cheers,
Tor
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#12 Old 06-04-2017
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You need at least a 4bar regulator in there asap. You're running horribly lean above 3000rpm. Also, get a 1w 4.7v zener diode to "clamp" MAF voltage before you max it out and go into limp mode.
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#13 Old 06-30-2017
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Hi 1978L82,
I have been thinking of performance increases by jacking up the SC pressure but I have not had a good answer to bypass the limp mode. Could you please elaborate on how and what value to use for the diode to use prevent the limp mode?
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#14 Old 07-01-2017
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It goes into limp mode after MAF reaches 4.85 volts. (Verified by Kleeman somewhere) I have both 4.7 and 4.3 volt zeners. I now recommend the 4.3's. Reason is they are usually +/- 5% so all the 4.7's I ordered were duds. All measuring 4.87 to 4.98. Even some 4.3's were measuring 4.8x... so I settled with one at 4.75.
You simply strip some wire insulation from pins 3&4 (preFL only!!) staggered so exposed wires don't touch. When wrapping the diode ends, the side with the stripe goes to the yellow/(brown?)pin4 and the other to the brown (pin 3). Then measure between pins 4 & 5 with a multimeter for voltage below 4.85.
A 1W 4.3v zener diode is what you need. A ten pack is like $3 on eBay if none can be found locally.
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Thanks. Question, Any idea what I would need for a boost of around 19 to 20 lbs? And is this all I would need to pass smog checks? I can build the mechanics to take that punishment but the electronics scares me. I'm shooting for 300+ Hp. I thought of a V8 (to much of a problem) or a 45AMG 2 ltr (too expensive) and both of them would have an electronics nightmare.
Appreciate your help.
Dave F.
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I don't want to burst your bubble... but that high psi is not possible with our m62 supercharger. 12-14 is max. Even then efficiency is horrible. Lots of heat created. The only way to go higher is turbo... not easy. So... fully modded your looking at maybe 260hp max .
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#17 Old 08-16-2017
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Mapping / Dyno results

So I finally got my baby on a dyno for a full remap.
First, I was somehow disappointed about the boost, ended at a max around 0.88 Bar (12,7 PSI). I was really hoping for 14 PSI.

Next, as predicted by 1978L82, we encountered problems with the MAF. I had the 4.7V and 4.3V Zeners ready, but using these avoided the P0100 and the limp mode, but instead led to an instant closing of the throttle. We ended up using a Dastec Module to clamp the voltage, which works fine but added another few bucks to the budget. The fuel pressure was set at 4.4 Bar static.

The guy doing the mapping is a recognised expert on Bosch ECU's and I am very impressed with how he has made the engine run. It is smooth, no low areas whatsoever, the redline was lifted 400 rpm's and it is full of evenly distributed power from 2000 - 6000, and feels like a rocket.

The numbers, however, was not that impressing. He was using a Dyno that gives more dynamic resistance, hence it is much better to use to achieve good drivability, Roger's words. (and driveability there is!) But this dyno is cheap on HP readouts, he said his other dyno wold have given at least 10 BHP more. The numbers were 243,1 engine BHP @ 5130, max torque 335,4Nm @5090. However, he was never doing a power registration run, so I guess the max torque might be a bit better at a lower rpm, wot only above 5000 tested. Pre mapping numbers were 205,6 BHP @5545 / 271,6 Nm @5135, same testing conditions (orig spec says max torque 280Nm @ 2500!!rpm)

Discussion: Why was the boost so much lower than expected? I'm pretty sure there were no leaks. The intercooler seems to do the job, highest recorded IAT during two days of testing was 48 deg C, room temp 27 deg C. It seems my supercharger belt is quite slack, it is definately at least 1cm out of it's orbit at speed seen from the paint disappearing from a near lying rotor. My belt is for a larger engine pulley, but not corrected for the smaller supercharger pulley. A shorter belt is in the mail at the moment. Hopefully it will spin the supercharger a bit faster. The next thing to explore is probably the pre supercharger tubing, however, I would like everything to look untouched, so I am hesitating to do anything here. I did a new carbon fibre pre airfilter box snorkel however, that made a huge difference in loss at middle rpm, not so much at red line... However, I'm quite sure, from measurements and from the design in areas I have not been able to test, that there are quite considerable amounts of parasittic drag before the air enters the supercharger.

Comments always welcome,
cheers,
Tor
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#18 Old 08-17-2017
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I am also stuck at about 12. Reasons for low boost include leaks, worn supercharger coating, worn belt tensioner, and for some reason if the cam adjust magnet is not functioning properly. I think a new tensioner would help more than a smaller belt. I have belt slip issues as well. I also need to replace my magnet as it leaks. If you want to leave the air box intact, what I did was get rid of all the "h" tubing from the lid and cut a hold on the side. It becomes substantially louder, but I like the banshee whine . I'm working on a supercharger bypass switch so that it's not so loud on cold starts.
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#19 Old 08-20-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1978L82 View Post
I am also stuck at about 12. Reasons for low boost include leaks, worn supercharger coating, worn belt tensioner, and for some reason if the cam adjust magnet is not functioning properly. I think a new tensioner would help more than a smaller belt. I have belt slip issues as well. I also need to replace my magnet as it leaks. If you want to leave the air box intact, what I did was get rid of all the "h" tubing from the lid and cut a hold on the side. It becomes substantially louder, but I like the banshee whine . I'm working on a supercharger bypass switch so that it's not so loud on cold starts.
I appreciate your comments!
Well, the new belt is on. It feels snugger, I suspect the tensioner was at it's limit with the other belt. Need to get a gauge to check the boost.
I do not understand what you mean with supercharger coating?
And how would a tensioner wear, except for the bearings?
The air box lit is completely stripped inside, and I cut the plastic where the tube is leading to the supercharger as well. Love the sound;-)

There were actually two moore issues after the remap. First, the engine felt very erratic at idle, after a few days I understood that it was directly connected to the operation of the brake pedal. So finally, I got around to measure the supply for the Dastec module, and yes, the +12V disappears when operating the brakes. So I need to find another +12V supply for the module, think I will take it from the +12V to the MAF, from K40 pin A2. Thoughts?
The other issue is a P0100 beeing thrown at me from time to time. No symptoms. Thought it was connected to the breaking issue at first, then I thought not, because it only appeared after a run to +5500 rpm. But then again, I might have been hitting the brakes after those runs, and that might be the connection after all....
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The coating is the teflon coating on the supercharger rotors. They should be gray. The MAF only gets 5v so you may need another source. And have you re-gapped your plugs to 0.8? Also, I find that the a/c on these cars either uses a lot of power or causes the ECM to pull timing, because vacuum at idle goes from 20-15in/Hg to 10in/Hg. Oh, and p0100 is a MAF sensor problem. Try cleaning it. If it stays the same, replace it. Mine would cut off my supercharger at high rpm (no fun ) til i restated the car. Then I had a fluctuating idle til I just replaced it. Got a used one on eBay. Google the Bosch number on the sensor. It was used in way more vehicles than ours or even Mercedes. And it's a lot cheaper for other brands for some reason.
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