Custom crank pulley - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Performance MODS for the R170 Tuning and Performance modifications for your SLK

 
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#1 Old 06-25-2012
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Custom crank pulley

Stock pulley s/c ring cut off on a lathe. Machining a steel ring to weld in same area. Then lathing metal ring to correct offset for aftermarket aluminum pulley in pic. Steel ring to be drilled and tapped for studs or bolts, to fasten pulley. Yes the new pulley is an 8 rib, and the belt is a 6, I know.
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#2 Old 06-25-2012
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looks nice - don't forget to dyno-tune and re-adjust the shift points for it! if you get dramatic increases in power, you may have to do some suspension work to keep the back end from sliding out.
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#3 Old 06-25-2012
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to get one from ASP racing?
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#4 Old 06-25-2012
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Well, The chromed pulley cost me $50 shipped. It's a 8.60" The rest only cost my time.
I had a 1999 C230 before and radiused (ported)the supercharger inlet, ported (enlargened)open the outlet, custom made a 3" supercharger pulley eliminating the electromagnetic clutch. Now doing the ratios, that should have been detonating, but ran just fine, and quick. I will be relocating the MAF, and installing a 4 bar fuel reg, two things I did not do on the C230. I think the porting made the difference in discharge temp, enough so not to detonate. This time I'm going crank pulley mod as you can see, not S/C pulley. I'll admit, the 3" blower pulley I made before was cool, but ate snout bearings for breakfast!
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#5 Old 06-25-2012
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we had a Maggie installed on our 2011 Camaro... someone at the factory forgot to lube the insides (ships as a self-contained unit)... after installation it seized at about 100 yards - Magnusson sent us a new one promptly - glad nothing else got flogged! didn't do any pulley or cam mods on it - got about 600 at the flywheel by the time we did all the mods. We got rid of the car though - named it Christine bc of all the gremlins we eventually found. Loved that car but it's just not a Corvette (we traded Christine in for the Corvette 2012 GS)

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Originally Posted by lowflyingbird View Post
Well, The chromed pulley cost me $50 shipped. It's a 8.60" The rest only cost my time.
I had a 1999 C230 before and radiused (ported)the supercharger inlet, ported (enlargened)open the outlet, custom made a 3" supercharger pulley eliminating the electromagnetic clutch. Now doing the ratios, that should have been detonating, but ran just fine, and quick. I will be relocating the MAF, and installing a 4 bar fuel reg, two things I did not do on the C230. I think the porting made the difference in discharge temp, enough so not to detonate. This time I'm going crank pulley mod as you can see, not S/C pulley. I'll admit, the 3" blower pulley I made before was cool, but ate snout bearings for breakfast!
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#6 Old 06-25-2012
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Originally Posted by lowflyingbird View Post
Stock pulley s/c ring cut off on a lathe. Machining a steel ring to weld in same area. Then lathing metal ring to correct offset for aftermarket aluminum pulley in pic. Steel ring to be drilled and tapped for studs or bolts, to fasten pulley. Yes the new pulley is an 8 rib, and the belt is a 6, I know.


Not a good idea !!! ASP and Kleemann had these design and both pullies failed in the long term. Both companies since scraped the design and went with welding the over ring onto the factory metal pulley. How did you able to balance the pulley?
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#7 Old 06-26-2012
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Everything is cut on a lathe, even the welds will be surfaced if needed. It's orig. a "0" balance unit, I'm not creating any counterbalance. Where is the difference between welding on a top ring vers. welding a "0" balance inner ring? Then the "0" balance pulley ring is evenly bolted on. Most likely studs. After, the welded inner ring gets lathed a second time,this will ensure a balanced surface for the pulley, and a small lip for the pulley ring to be centered by.

Didnt one company do a set screw install, now that is risky!!
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#8 Old 06-27-2012
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Originally Posted by lowflyingbird View Post
Everything is cut on a lathe, even the welds will be surfaced if needed. It's orig. a "0" balance unit, I'm not creating any counterbalance. Where is the difference between welding on a top ring vers. welding a "0" balance inner ring? Then the "0" balance pulley ring is evenly bolted on. Most likely studs. After, the welded inner ring gets lathed a second time,this will ensure a balanced surface for the pulley, and a small lip for the pulley ring to be centered by.

Didnt one company do a set screw install, now that is risky!!

Kleemann. ASP...etc, did do the screw type pulley that failed. As far as balance, you really need to have it balance check or you will need an engine replacement in the future. Maybe you can call ASP up and have them balance it for you.
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