Big crank pulley and problems at high rev - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 04-25-2012
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Big crank pulley and problems at high rev

Hi, I changed the crank pulley of my SLK230 1999 for a custom one. It has a 9.30" OD (while the OEM is 7.25" OD). Power gain is amazing. I will go to a dyno test when the following problem is solved.

Acceleration through the 1st and 2nd gear are nice but when I hit approx. 4500 RPM (at around 120 Km/h), it feels like the blower disengage and the power is lost.

The blower does not turn back on until the ignition is turned off and on.

Any suggestion?

Regards

Pat
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#2 Old 04-25-2012
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Originally Posted by By Patrick View Post
Hi, I changed the crank pulley of my SLK230 1999 for a custom one. It has a 9.30" OD (while the OEM is 7.25" OD). Power gain is amazing. I will go to a dyno test when the following problem is solved.

Acceleration through the 1st and 2nd gear are nice but when I hit approx. 4500 RPM (at around 120 Km/h), it feels like the blower disengage and the power is lost.

The blower does not turn back on until the ignition is turned off and on.

Any suggestion?

Regards

Pat


Your car is going into a "LIMP MODE" to protect the engine due to could be over boosted. Did you also relocation your MAS/MAF sensor, install rise rate fuel pressure regulator and colder spark plugs? On the 1999 slk230 model required all the parts i mentioned when do the pulley kit upgrade.
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#3 Old 04-26-2012
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Thank you for your interest into my problem.

Btw, I have been reading this forum and similar ones for years now and I am glad to finally have a chance to discuss with the person who influenced most of my mods so far

Answer.
1. Yes MAS/MAF was relocated
2. OEM FPR was replaced with 4 bar FPR (Is a 4 bar enough with such an oversized pulley?)
3. Colder Spark plugs were installed long ago ( I'll have to confirm this though)

This is a custom aluminum crank pulley which has a 9.30" OD. The original steel hub was kept in order to maintain the engine balanced. The two stage pulley was machined and bolted onto the hub.

The ASP kit for example has a 8.25" OD (I believe). You can imagine that with 9.30" OD, the blower whistles loud.

Any way I can bypass this Limp mode? Or should I go with a smaller pulley? What other options do I have?

Thank you

Pat
ps. see pics on my profile
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#4 Old 04-26-2012
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Better get your ECU tuned before you blow a piston....You're starving your engine....

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#5 Old 04-26-2012
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Originally Posted by By Patrick View Post
Thank you for your interest into my problem.

Btw, I have been reading this forum and similar ones for years now and I am glad to finally have a chance to discuss with the person who influenced most of my mods so far

Answer.
1. Yes MAS/MAF was relocated
2. OEM FPR was replaced with 4 bar FPR (Is a 4 bar enough with such an oversized pulley?)
3. Colder Spark plugs were installed long ago ( I'll have to confirm this though)

This is a custom aluminum crank pulley which has a 9.30" OD. The original steel hub was kept in order to maintain the engine balanced. The two stage pulley was machined and bolted onto the hub.

The ASP kit for example has a 8.25" OD (I believe). You can imagine that with 9.30" OD, the blower whistles loud.

Any way I can bypass this Limp mode? Or should I go with a smaller pulley? What other options do I have?

Thank you

Pat
ps. see pics on my profile

I'm 100% sure you're overboosted. With ASP pulley, you're running around 9.5 psi. You don't want to run more then 10-11 psi. So go with smaller smaller pulley. As for Limp Mode, is a factory safety protection, you can't bypass it.
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#6 Old 04-26-2012
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What is your current psi of boost?
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#7 Old 05-02-2012
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Thx all for your replies.

I have questions.

1. Can I keep the oversized pulley, run overboosted if its the case (no I dont have the boost value yet), and install a device that will act like a Blow of Valve?

2. Can someone give me a colder spark plug item number and brand?

3. Can a dyno shop tune the ECU? Or what are my options?

I am planning to install 2 gauges on the window pillar. One for boost and one for Air/Fuel ratio. Anyone have suggestions for the gauges and pillar mount?

Regards

Pat
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#8 Old 05-09-2012
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I just installed ASP pulley today.

Bosch plugs FR5DC per asp i could not locate.
I found NGK plugs BKR7E as interchangable.

Car will not start now. I am sure it must be my fault. I did not relocate my maf or get the fuel regulator due to when lee at asp looked at my car, he thought it may be the post facelift car with the computer that compensates.

My maf setup did not look like the before pics of the maf pics he sends out with his kit.

Now it just cranks and every so often sputters like it wants to start.
Not sure what to do.


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#9 Old 05-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLKman View Post
I just installed ASP pulley today.

Bosch plugs FR5DC per asp i could not locate.
I found NGK plugs BKR7E as interchangable.

Car will not start now. I am sure it must be my fault. I did not relocate my maf or get the fuel regulator due to when lee at asp looked at my car, he thought it may be the post facelift car with the computer that compensates.

My maf setup did not look like the before pics of the maf pics he sends out with his kit.

Now it just cranks and every so often sputters like it wants to start.
Not sure what to do.


What exactly did you remove/installed? sound like you just install the pulley and plugs. You might have the plug wire crossed cylinder.
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#10 Old 05-09-2012
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Well here is the whole story...

Over a year ago my serpentine belt broke.
It broke one of the wires going to the super charger just behind the sc pulley. So for over a year i have been driving with NO sc.

Because the wire was broke, pretty much everything on my car quit functioning. All emergency dash lights on, but the locks, antiskid, cruise, radio, sc, top and ac not working.

just a plain 4 cylinder car. Im surprised it never went into limp mode.

Code reader reads all settings and stopped at sc. (due to broke wire)

Today I pulled sc pulley to get to wires. Soldered them together and also put on asp pulley.

I did not relocate the maf or put on the fuel regulator. (will do that in the morning.)

Previously i was told i may not need them.

Now i know for sure i do need them. Thx for helping me klinh!!!!


Once all is together tomorrow, i hope to be back good as new.


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#11 Old 05-09-2012
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Originally Posted by SLKman View Post
Well here is the whole story...

Over a year ago my serpentine belt broke.
It broke one of the wires going to the super charger just behind the sc pulley. So for over a year i have been driving with NO sc.

Because the wire was broke, pretty much everything on my car quit functioning. All emergency dash lights on, but the locks, antiskid, cruise, radio, sc, top and ac not working.

just a plain 4 cylinder car. Im surprised it never went into limp mode.

Code reader reads all settings and stopped at sc. (due to broke wire)

Today I pulled sc pulley to get to wires. Soldered them together and also put on asp pulley.

I did not relocate the maf or put on the fuel regulator. (will do that in the morning.)

Previously i was told i may not need them.

Now i know for sure i do need them. Thx for helping me klinh!!!!


Once all is together tomorrow, i hope to be back good as new.


All other part of the pulley kit have nothing to do why your engine won't start.
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#12 Old 05-09-2012
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Just got the fuel regulator in, maf relocated as per instructions. Still just cranks. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.

My neighbor thinks the timing is off. I don't see how. Nothing moved when we pulled the pulley. Put the new one right back on in same position. He thinks the larger pulley would make the timing off. Is that the case?

next move is to disconnect the soldered wire on back of sc and then see if it will start as it did before. grrrrrr


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#13 Old 05-09-2012
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Originally Posted by SLKman View Post
Just got the fuel regulator in, maf relocated as per instructions. Still just cranks. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.

My neighbor thinks the timing is off. I don't see how. Nothing moved when we pulled the pulley. Put the new one right back on in same position. He thinks the larger pulley would make the timing off. Is that the case?

next move is to disconnect the soldered wire on back of sc and then see if it will start as it did before. grrrrrr

No, the pulley have nothing to do with timing. Why don't you disconnect the battery for at least 30 mins. then restart again.
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#14 Old 05-09-2012
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Hi SLKman,

Forget about your neighbors, Klinh is right..
1. The pulley has nothing to do with the timing
2. Your oem spark plugs are BCPR6ET with NGK. You should use colder BCPR76ET p/n:5509
3. I would also suggest to check your spark plug wire order as you may have interchange the fireing sequence.

When the engine will fire back with the new pulley on, it will feel like a rocket compared to flat 4 cylinder engine you were using for too long

Pat
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#15 Old 05-09-2012
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Cool. Thanks for suggestiions.
I changed plugs one at a time. No way to get wires crossed that way.
Only thing left is my soldering job.
i must have shorted something out.
checking fuses first then
i will disconnect solder point to see if that changes things.


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#16 Old 05-10-2012
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All good,

Keep us posted with the situation.

Pat
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#17 Old 05-11-2012
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Originally Posted by SLKman View Post
Just got the fuel regulator in, maf relocated as per instructions. Still just cranks. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.

My neighbor thinks the timing is off. I don't see how. Nothing moved when we pulled the pulley. Put the new one right back on in same position. He thinks the larger pulley would make the timing off. Is that the case?

next move is to disconnect the soldered wire on back of sc and then see if it will start as it did before. grrrrrr

Did you have the MAF housing rotation in the right direction?
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#18 Old 05-11-2012
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MAF on its side with the sensor level, pointed to the driver side fender.

Could it be my crank position sensor?

Is that located behind the Crank pulley?

Maybe that is the issue.

Im going to buy a code reader today.


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#19 Old 05-11-2012
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Hi,

I did the MAF mod too. But I never heared of any particular position for the sensor.
Can someone confirm the right position please?

Thx

Pat
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#20 Old 05-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLKman View Post
MAF on its side with the sensor level, pointed to the driver side fender.

Could it be my crank position sensor?

Is that located behind the Crank pulley?

Maybe that is the issue.

Im going to buy a code reader today.
CPS is located on the drivers side rear below the Throttle body, its hard to get to but doable.
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