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#1 Old 06-26-2013
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The leaky garage

I have a 2.5 car garage from the 50s that has a base that was constructed out of cinderblock and a concrete foundation slab. Unfortunately I am now seeing signs of water in the corners..It's not even that bad.. but where there is smoke there is fire.

Now I could easily switch vehicle sides, and put the slk on the good side of the garage, considering the jeep is going to drip all over the concrete anyway. But just for preventative measure sake [not to make this a big deal], can anyone see any real flaws in my logic?

power wash the blocks
quickcrete the corners and cracks
waterblock/mold proof paint on the blocks

this should at least keep most of the moisture at bay right?


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#2 Old 06-26-2013
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did you say cinder?


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#3 Old 06-26-2013
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Originally Posted by simplyslk View Post
did you say cinder?
In my best alec baldwin voice .. why yes..yes I did..
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#4 Old 06-26-2013
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It wouldn't cost too much to dig a small trench around the outside of the garage and put in place a 4" perforated plastic drain pipe. Use a T and a few feet of trenched PVC to carry water away from the garage.....then back fill the trench with some crushed rock. This would keep water from standing against the outside wall and penetrating the block or block/footer joint.

Does your garage have gutters and are they functional? Sometimes rain water falls from the roof too close to the structure and that can also create a problem like you describe.


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#5 Old 06-26-2013
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The back of the garage backs up to some weird 1 foot stretch of dead space in my yard, and my entire property lot is on an incline, so there is nothing I can do about what is behind the garage, its very hard to explain. And on both sides of the garage, there is a paver patio. I would have to go through a lot of work and expense to get that dug up. Hence me trying just to tackle it from the inside. The garage does not have gutters no. It's a V roofed structure.


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#6 Old 06-26-2013
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Gutters with flexible downspout drains or even burried PVC drains away from the structure would be worth the couple hundred dollars it would cost.


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#7 Old 06-26-2013
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Is the water entering from the bottom or the top of the garage? If the bottom, you might want to reseal.
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#8 Old 06-26-2013
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Definitely the bottom.


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#9 Old 06-26-2013
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I with Gregg you need to get the water away from the garage on the outside. If it has not all ways been a problem what changed that now it is a problem. Bottom line where is the water coming from that is entering the garage? Stopped the source before it enters.
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#10 Old 06-26-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slk320chick View Post
...... It's a V roofed structure.
Chicky, first things first. Lets give you some "roof" knowledge as well as SLK Knowledge.

If in fact your structure is a v all the water would run towards the inside of the structure. What you mean to say is that your garage has a "Gable" roof, which would look like ^ this. And no, it is not called "an upside down V roof structure", it is called a GABLE roof.

Gregg is right! Spend the money, put gutters preferably on the roof, with downspouts dumping into drainage pipes buried underground to carry the water away from the building. Water IS a buildings worst demise and it is worth the money to correct the situation or eventually you will have mold, mildew and dry-rot to any adjacent touching wood.

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#11 Old 06-26-2013
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I think that I would try to seal/stop the water from the outside. If you seal it off from the inside the cinder block would still be water soaked, and may freeze, expand and crack your blocks.

I could and probably am off base though. So here is to hoping someone with a construction background will be along soon.
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#12 Old 06-26-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slk320chick View Post
I have a 2.5 car garage from the 50s that has a base that was constructed out of cinderblock and a concrete foundation slab. Unfortunately I am now seeing signs of water in the corners..It's not even that bad.. but where there is smoke there is fire.

Now I could easily switch vehicle sides, and put the slk on the good side of the garage, considering the jeep is going to drip all over the concrete anyway. But just for preventative measure sake [not to make this a big deal], can anyone see any real flaws in my logic?

power wash the blocks
quickcrete the corners and cracks
waterblock/mold proof paint on the blocks

this should at least keep most of the moisture at bay right?

Park it on the good side and don`t worry so much, strange thing when mercedes designed the SLK , they made it to be waterproof and to go out in the big wide world , I know crazy idea yep ? fancy them making a car to be waterproof and capable of lasting 20 years outside , damn fools

In short quit worrying , stick it on the dry side and maybe cover with a blanket if you want to spoil it, take it out for a run every so often and i am pretty sure your car will survive ok..


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#13 Old 06-26-2013
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OP, I've had similar problems a couple of times.

One on an outside retaining wall (not connected to my home) when I lived in Arizona, but it was there to keep the water from the adjoining neighbor's property that was higher than mine, away from me. The problem is, as water hits the cinder block, it does soak through after a while, leaving a white residue on the other side. Looks hideous, but was not a super big deal. What was a bigger deal is as time went on, small cracks appeared in some of the blocks from settling... THEN, when the monsoons came and the neighbor's property essentially flooded, I had spraying water coming out from those places onto my yard, deck and side of the house. NOT GOOD. Yes, it was just like that little Dutch Boy and the dike, except picture me there. Boy oh boy. What I had to do was get some type (sorry, don't remember specific brand) of sealant designed for that purpose, effectively caulk the cracks, then apply a sort of rubberized membrane paint/glue stuff over my side of the cinder block. That kept the water away and I didn't have any more problems the following year.

My second situation is in my present garage. Cinder blocks on the lowest level that come up maybe 5" above the slab of my garage. Studs and drywall sit on top of that for the walls. The home is nearing 40 years old, and living in California, well, there were a lot of cracks when I bought the home. I had a structural engineer come out to look at another problem in the overhead beams (not related to the subject at hand) before I made an offer on the home and had him suggest what to do with the cinder blocks. He could not find cracks in the slab or cinder blocks that went all the way through and there was no water that had come down to those areas from up above. His recommendation was to get a wire brush, clean off the junk, use my ShopVac to clean out the cracks, then put some caulk designed for that purpose (I found it at Home Depot -- just read the labels and you'll figure out which one works for that purpose) in the cracks to prevent insects, etc getting in or through. I did all that, painted things to match, and have not had a problem since.

My third situation (and I started with only 2) may not be related, but just in case as this thread has gone off on roofs and gutters that may or may not apply to you. Also, in my present home, when I bought it, it had no gutters. A month after I moved in, we had torrential rains and I ended up with more than 6" of standing water on 2 sides of my home -- to the point it was within 1/2" of coming over my back slab step and into my sliding door into the family room. I effectively had a lake in my backyard against my home for nearly 3 days after the rain subsided. I was going to have to put a new roof on my home and fix a structural problem in my garage, so I went ahead and as that was being done, hired landscapers to dig and bury in drains along the 3 sides of my home. When the roof was done, I had a gutter company come out and put that up, and the downspouts connect into the underground drain system that flows under my front lawn and sidewalk. Now in a heavy rain, it can blast out two holes in the curb with water from my roof, but hey, my property is bone dry, with no more lake around my house. What I unfortunately found after that is the problem had likely been happening for years ... I had to pull my wood floor up in the whole living room/dining room that adjoined the wall that sometimes had the lake on the other side ... it was evident the water had absorbed into the stucco, through the walls and caused mold to form under the glued-down wooden floor. Well, I took care of the problem on the outside, but then had to replace the interior hardwood floor with all that other stuff that had to be resolved.

...so, all that to say, I'm not a structural engineer or really any kind of Mr. Fixit myself, but it seems what you're trying to do should work. Do see if you can determine where the water is coming from ... if it's from the other side, that's one thing, sort of like my first or third scenario. If it's coming from up above, I would think you'd see something in your exposed framing or maybe on the drywall... then you would really need to investigate the roof situation -- otherwise don't worry about the roof. You need to prevent the water from coming in wherever that is, as well as correct the inside of your garage because it seems you're like me and want things clean and tidy once again. ...but your beloved SLK should be fine. From your description, it does not seem like it's going to be floating or you'll end up with a waterfall over it. I agree our SLKs are designed to be weatherproof, but I for one would not want water dripping on my car or even on a towel I put on top of it to absorb such a thing -- water that travels like that has all kinds of calcium and crap in it that will mess up that finish you just had detailed -- and you'd have to start another thread then how to correct finish problems from water spots and we'll have to try to talk you through how to use a Porter Cable or some other machine to get your rocketship back in shape.

Hope all that helps some way or other. My fingers are tired. I'm gonna let them rest.
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#14 Old 06-27-2013
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Go to your home improvement store and ask for concrete foundation crack sealer...don't use quickcrete it won't bond with the existing concrete. this stuff is essentially like chalking but intended for use with concrete


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#15 Old 06-27-2013
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Originally Posted by Der Flieger View Post
Go to your home improvement store and ask for concrete foundation crack sealer...don't use quickcrete it won't bond with the existing concrete. this stuff is essentially like chalking but intended for use with concrete
Yup, that's what you should do -- I did and it's held up well for several years.


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