Mickey Died :( - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum
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#1 Old 10-30-2016
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Cool Mickey Died :(

Well . . . Mickey just suffered his first breakdown. I got in this AM and started him up and noticed he did something unusual. Instead of starting right up, it took about three, maybe four seconds to start, something which has never happened Immediately I thought . . . Now that's a little weird

I turned the Ignition back off and started Mickey again, this time he lit right off as always as I presumed this was just a momentary green Gremlin giving me a quick poke. I was on my way to church only two miles from home when suddenly, Mickey started surging or slightly bogging, he was still running, but a little rough. I immediately turned down the radio and started to modulate the accelerator pedal to see if it had a dead spot or was this the fuel pump suddenly going out ?

Well, this went on for about an 1/8 th of a mile when I decided I better turn Mickey back around and head for home, I didn't want to press my luck. I got him turned around on a side street and then he just died. Several tries at a restart failed, it was time to call the Tow Truck and admit defeat

I should mention here, at no time when Mickey started running rough did any fault lights illuminate of the dash.

I waited about ten minutes and thought I would try again to start Mickey. Once or twice, the engine did start to fire its' spark plugs momentarily, he was almost going to start, but alas, he didn't

So . . . My best guess as of right now, not being the proud owner of a iCarsoft Scanner is, I believe since the car was bogging and running rough momentarily rather than just immediately die-ing, is either the fuel pump has gone south or perhaps the accelerator pedal. I hope it's the accelerator pedal, they're super easy to replace and not that expensive.

Mickey is a 2005 SLK 350 with 86,000 miles. It seems that the miles are a little low to have a fuel pump failure. My 1996 Toyota Tacoma has 335,00 miles ans still has the original fuel pump and water pump

Any thoughts or insights would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I am thinking about buying the higher cost iCarsoft MB II Scanner over the model i980. Does anyone have any experience with this newer scanner? Is it worth the extra $ to buy one ?
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#2 Old 10-30-2016
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I wouldn't wouldn't rule out the battery/alternator just yet. I'd start there.

I have no experience with CarSoft.
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#3 Old 10-30-2016
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When did you last fill the tank?

Dodgy/wet fuel perhaps.

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#4 Old 10-30-2016
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Gas tank was filled about 5 days ago. I believe the level now is between 1/4 and 1/2. Also, I doubt that I have a battery or alternator issue. I was able to crank the engine many times after it died, engine cranking was normal not slow at all. I also had to close the top to access my tool kit for the tow hook, the top closed normally, so again I doubt I have a battery issue. From what I've seen on past threads, when a batter is the problem, you usually get all kinds of lights coming on and many things don't function, that is not what I'm seeing.

I also doubt fuel is the issue, I live in Phoenix, Arizona an incredibly dry place. It is unlikely I have water in the fuel and I have been driving everyday for the past several days since fueling.

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#5 Old 10-30-2016
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Hopefully you didn't notice any valve noises, did you?

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#6 Old 10-30-2016
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When the Crankshaft Position Sensor goes bad, there won't be any error codes. Vehicle starter motor will crank fine but nothing else happens. If one is lucky, one might get a CEL temporarily and this clears after the next ignition off, then on sequence.

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#7 Old 10-30-2016
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Experienced something similar in an Okdsmobile-plenty of crank but no go. Turned out it was the CPS. I plan to replace the one in my 05 350 (92k) as a preemptive measure. OP'r, in your case, for the price, I would pop a new one in just for grins & giggles. Pls post so we can see what's going on.
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#8 Old 10-30-2016
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A bit more info about CPS here but you should have got the CEL warning (seems it should be on, not just a sporadic on/off though--but then again, I know zip about mechanical stuff on cars ). YMMV.

Found this that may help in locating it https://www.slkworld.com/amgs/67841-c...171-slk55.html and someone can correct me if I'm wrong but it should be the same location as your 350. I'll edit this if it's wrong.
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#9 Old 10-30-2016
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Search the forum "Best Diagnostic Tool"...it covers a lot of the readers!
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#10 Old 10-30-2016
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You need to scan you car with a dedicate MB tool.
I will not buy a expensive obd2 tool, buy a basic one. The basic ones will tell you all the faults, any way if is something major will only be detected by DAS/Xentry.
Keep us posted with the findings.
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#11 Old 10-30-2016
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Cool Test for CPS ?

When the Crankshaft Position Sensor goes bad, there won't be any error codes.

Etyu, do you or anyone else know if there is a quick test I can do to determine if the CPS is bad . . . Continuity, Voltage, etc ? This does sound reasonable that this could be the issue. Many thanks in advance for any help you can offer
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#12 Old 10-30-2016
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Cool No Tap Tap Tap

[QUOTE=Charlie350;3206089]Hopefully you didn't notice any valve noises, did you?

No Charlie, I don't believe so. I had the radio up loud when I first noticed the bogging, I immediately turned it down to listen for any anomalies. From what I could hear, the engine sounded pretty quiet, I was driving about 35 mph at the time with the top down. It seemed when I tried to accelerate, the Tach would show a slight decrease in RPM, like it was slightly starving for fuel, or bogging down because the Crank Timing was getting thrown off. I truly hope it is the CPS, this looks like a super easy and inexpensive fix

As I mentioned earlier, after Mickey quit, I waited about ten minutes and tried starting him up again. On about six attempts, twice it seemed Mickey had regained some amount of ignition, but was unable to start, then he reverted back to zero firing. So . . . I'm liking this CPS theory, I think it would be way easier to deal with than replacing the "In Tank" fuel pump
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#13 Old 10-30-2016
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There are YouTube videos on the subject of testing the CPS. One guy says that as you're cranking the engine, if you see activity at the RPM gauge, the sensor is working.
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#14 Old 10-30-2016
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[quote=Michael H.;3206817]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie350 View Post
Hopefully you didn't notice any valve noises, did you?

No Charlie, I don't believe so. I had the radio up loud when I first noticed the bogging, I immediately turned it down to listen for any anomalies. From what I could hear, the engine sounded pretty quiet, I was driving about 35 mph at the time with the top down. It seemed when I tried to accelerate, the Tach would show a slight decrease in RPM, like it was slightly starving for fuel, or bogging down because the Crank Timing was getting thrown off. I truly hope it is the CPS, this looks like a super easy and inexpensive fix

As I mentioned earlier, after Mickey quit, I waited about ten minutes and tried starting him up again. On about six attempts, twice it seemed Mickey had regained some amount of ignition, but was unable to start, then he reverted back to zero firing. So . . . I'm liking this CPS theory, I think it would be way easier to deal with than replacing the "In Tank" fuel pump
https://www.1aauto.com/content/artic...sensor-testing
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#15 Old 10-30-2016
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Thanks so much for the Test Info Woz, I'll definitely make use of it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael H. View Post
When the Crankshaft Position Sensor goes bad, there won't be any error codes.

Etyu, do you or anyone else know if there is a quick test I can do to determine if the CPS is bad . . . Continuity, Voltage, etc ? This does sound reasonable that this could be the issue. Many thanks in advance for any help you can offer
From the service repair order (dated 03 July 2013, vehicle had 64,187 miles then):

Engine test with DAS: code P2034-008
Technician did test of individual component per DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code)
Crankshaft Position Sensor failed resistance test (56 megaohms or MΩ when heat is applied)

After replacement of CPS, reset was done on sensor with rotor adaptation, and vehicle test driven 11 miles.

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#17 Old 10-31-2016
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Cool Hoping I can just plug it in :O

After replacement of CPS, reset was done on sensor with rotor adaptation, and vehicle test driven 11 miles.[/QUOTE]

Wow, if it does turn out to be the CPS, I am hoping just plugging a new one in will fix the problem. Is special equipment needed to reprogram something ? I'm not sure I understand what they are talking about when they mention "Rotor Adaptation" It sounds like some kind of a learning process

What is encouraging though, this sensor failed on a much newer vehicle with 25,000 less miles on it, so it isn't unheard of. But it does beg the question, shouldn't these sensors last 200,000 miles? I've never replaced a sensor on my 19996 Tacoma, and it has 3335,000 miles
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IIRC, I read somewhere that DAS may need to be used to do the adaptation but I am not certain about this.
Perhaps those with more technical knowledge and familiarity with DAS can chime in.
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#19 Old 10-31-2016
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Different animal, but the CPS on our 05 e320 was plug n play. I was told the same (on this forum IIRC) for my 05 Slk350 but haven't done it.
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#20 Old 10-31-2016
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Cool Thanx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxanne7169 View Post
Different animal, but the CPS on our 05 e320 was plug n play. I was told the same (on this forum IIRC) for my 05 Slk350 but haven't done it.
Yeah . . . I just watched a video on Mercedes Medic and it was just that . . . Plug and Play. I'm looking forward to a very inexpensive repair, fingers fully crossed that this is the problem

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