Dr Robert Moore iii 1999 SLK 230 $700.00 U S - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 11-12-2018
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Dr Robert Moore iii 1999 SLK 230 $700.00 U S

Just purchased a 1999 Mercedes-Benz SLK hardtop convertible guess what I paid for it ?????
Only $700 U S. Drove the car with all the way up from Harrisburg Pennsylvania, in which I live in Philadelphia, pa and I drove it all the way home with no problems till I got like two blocks away the battery light came on and everything started malfunctioning lights dim this and that, anyway I pulled over let the car sit for 10 minutes, turn the key she started right back up got home and then I'm about to park and did the same thing again battery light came on it by the malfunctioning anyway I got it home safe thank Jehovah; for that price you can't beat it. Okay came out the next day I let it idle for little while and boom it did the same thing again battery light came on it was acting up so I just turned it off. today I took the battery out and fully charged it I hope it's not but if it's the alternator its under two hundred bucks. but if it was the alternator what I noticed when I stept on the gas the battery light would go out so does that mean the battery is charging what do you think is it the alternator or just the battery Ill know a couple hours from now charging the battery all the way up, To pay $700 for 1999 SLK hardtop convertible Mercedes Benz I think I did a great job and it drove me home what do you think has anyone ever had that problem before where everything just goes out of whack due to low voltage battery or alternator let me know. How do u test alternator, I didn't want to do the ole, start the car n pull off only the negative cable cause I read somewhere that that came damage this type of vehicle, So how do I test the alternator without tools, or how do I test with tool needed? Help help help
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#2 Old 11-12-2018
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Welcome to SLKWorld.com: The #1 Mercedes-Benz SLK Forum from Florida!

First please update your location and vehicle (Put Looking!)(year?: 1996-2018, model?: 32, 43, 200, 230, 250, 280, 300, 320, 350, 55) in your profile as it helps the members answer your questions which usually are based on that information if you haven’t. This takes about 30 seconds to do.

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#3 Old 11-12-2018
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Welcome from Wirral, England.


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First please update your location & vehicle details
(Put Looking!)(year?: 1996-2017,model?: 32, 200, 230, 250, 280, 300,320,350,55)
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This takes about 30 seconds to do.


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Really useful links (thanks to ixions cataloguing)
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#4 Old 11-12-2018
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Welcome from Gloucester UK.
You can buy alternator testers for around Ł10 in the Uk so should be able to get them in the US too.
They simply clamp onto the battery terminals and give you an indication of alternator condition with green, Amber or red lights.
I believe a bad battery will give a multitude of issues with the car so it sounds more like the battery especially if the light go out when you rev it.
Hope it helps?


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#5 Old 11-12-2018
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#6 Old 11-12-2018
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Welcome from Canada

@DrRobertM please update your location and vehicle (Put Looking!)(year?: 1996-2018, model?: 32, 43, 200, 230, 250, 280, 300, 320, 350, 55) in your profile as it helps the members answer your questions which usually are based on that information if you haven’t. This takes about 30 seconds to do.

Follow exactly to update: ‘Usercp’ at the top of page, then ‘edit your details’ on the left side, ‘additional information’ near the bottom, edit your ‘location’ and ‘vehicle’. Info in your garage does not update your profile.

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#7 Old 11-12-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobertM View Post
...what do you think ... How do u test alternator
That's a pretty good price, but you won't know the real price for a while now! Test the alternator by removing it and taking it in for testing (many stores here will test it for free).

The fact that you can stop the car, and then immediately restart it without recharging the battery, implies that the alternator is indeed re-charging the battery successfully. Otherwise the battery would be too flat. Right?

There is a so-called K56 "crash relay" on the early models (->05/98) that is connected to the battery and the alternator, it's an occasional culprit. It's located in the "pre-fuse" box near the battery IIRC.

Last edited by efair; 11-12-2018 at 05:25 PM. Reason: correct date range
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#8 Old 11-12-2018
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Welcome to SLKWorld.com from Northern
California



Please update your location and vehicle (Put Looking!)(year?: 1996-2017,
model?: 32, 200, 230, 250, 280, 300,320,350,55) in your profile as it helps the members
answer your questions which usually are based on that information if you haven’t. This takes about
30 seconds to do.
Follow exactly to update: ‘Usercp’ at the top of page, then ‘edit your details’ on the left side,
‘additional information’ near the bottom, edit your ‘location’ and ‘vehicle’. Info in your garage does
not update your profile.


List of Useful SLK Links >https://slk-links.neocities.org/Links.html

PARTS Information on Mercedes SLK R170 R171 R172 >https://slk-links.neocities.org/

https://www.slkworld.com/vehicle-data...-datacard.html

You will never need to ask about part numbers again.



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introduction first.
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#9 Old 11-12-2018
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Hi, welcome from Barrhead, Scotland.


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Hi from London,

Welcome aboard!
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#13 Old 11-16-2018
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Hi DrRobert,


Welcome to SLKWorld

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobertM View Post
Help is it true that starting the vehicle n removing negative cable could hurt this particular vehicle???
Possibly, when you disconnect the battery with your engine running the alternator still has energy but nowhere for it to go. The consequence is a voltage spike which may be 40 Volts or more, but lasts less than 1/2 a second - this is called 'Load Dump'. After that spike the alternator will continue to produce a spiky voltage, though not as big, without your battery present to soak up and smooth out the alternator's output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobertM View Post
is it the alternator or battery
You should be able to get an idea if you are able to measure the system voltage. If your battery's voltage is still less than 12 Volts after charging it up with a battery charger it probably has one or more failed cells. If your battery's voltage seems OK a simple test for your alternator is to measure the battery voltage when your engine is running, it should be at least 13 Volts but no more than about 14.5 Volts. If not try revving your engine, 1,500 to 2,000 RPM is adequate. Now turn on all of your lights, heater, demister etc. and measure again. If you measure less than 13 Volts whilst revving your engine a little and have lots of electrical things switched on your alternator may be faulty. Lastly, sometimes an alternator seems OK at lower engine RPMs but doesn't work properly higher, if things seem right to this point then check the voltage is still good (above 13 Volts) when you rev your engine to 5,000 RPM or more.

Good luck,
Sophie x
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#14 Old 11-18-2018
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