vario roof switch or sensor problem - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 12-19-2016
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vario roof switch or sensor problem

Hello everyone,
My Name is Dan and I own a 2008, SLK280. I would like to thank this community for helping me with information’s on repair. I appreciate your help.
I recently had a problem with my Vario roof. Roof was not opening and hydraulic oil was coming out of front of roof. Thanks to this community I was able to find the thread about the ring and replaced it.
Now the roof does not operate. When I push the roof switch nothing happens, no noise, nothing. Please I need your help!!
While changing the ring in Hydraulic cylinder I made a mistake of not releasing the pressure and I had the top open in half way position for 2 days.
I did release the pressure later and could close the roof manually, but the windows are down, Trunk won’t close and there is no noise when I push the roof switch.
I checked the fuses, they are OK. I disconnected the battery for one hour and try to reset the system that did not work. I ran the car and charge the battery for 30 min and that did not work either.
Please look at some Pics I included.
1- Does the roof switch should light up similar to mirror switch when I start the car?
2- Is there any sensor that must be reset?
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#2 Old 12-19-2016
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#3 Old 12-19-2016
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Welcome from Madrid...

Check out this thread and read, with special attention to the details, the attached thumbnail/pdf en post #11 .

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-cla...-manually.html

It's quite possible that you need to use a fair bit of force to close the trunk and also raise&reset the rear windows with STAR/DAS diagnosis...

In answer to your question about the light on the switch, no, that's for engaging the towing feature of the alarm.


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#4 Old 12-19-2016
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I was having a similar problem. Another member here suggested that I make some jumpers and install them in the connectors to the micro-switches.
I did that for the two trunk/boot lid switches on each side. I could then get the pump to operate. (I had replaced the roof latch cylinder and the two trunk/boot cylinders.)
It did take a little while to get everything going like it should as the system needed to refill and purge the air. I had to refill the pump 3 times to do this.
After I got the system to completely operate through one cycle on its own, I found that I had to bend the arm of both switches for the trunk up a little or they would not close the switch. Once I did that I could remove the jumpers, reconnect to the micro-switches and all is well.
I had tried not only pushing down hard on the trunk corners but I had sat my 230+ lb body on the corners in an attempt to get the switches to contact. That did not work.
Using the jumpers allowed me to find what switches were not operating as they should.
It doesn't take much of a wire to make a jumper. I used about a half inch of left over speaker wire for each one. Bent it into a U shape and stuck them in the connectors.
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#5 Old 12-19-2016
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Hi Dan, resetting the errors should get it all going again. The only way to get the boot down, is to decompress or remove the 2 cylinders at the rear.
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#6 Old 12-19-2016
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Thank you curro101
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#7 Old 12-19-2016
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Hi dedgar,

What switch did you have to jump?
Is that to close the trunk? and what do you mean by making a jumper?

Thanks
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#8 Old 12-19-2016
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Hi
What do I need to reset the errors? Just a code reader? I have one of those.
or special program with computer similar to dealers?
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#9 Old 12-19-2016
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You need to have either a ODB2 reader which can reset the errors, or the DAS/STAR which most dealers have
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#10 Old 12-20-2016
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Welcome from Portland, Oregon. Enjoy the forum and the top down driving.


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#11 Old 12-20-2016
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Hi from London,

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#12 Old 12-20-2016
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Hi Dan, and welcome to SLKWorld.com from the UK Midlands - Thanks for joining us and posting an intro!

I can't add anything to the suggestions that have already been made above... I hope you manage to resolve the roof issue soon.

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#13 Old 12-20-2016
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Welcome from Canada Dan

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#14 Old 12-20-2016
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#15 Old 12-20-2016
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Hi Dan,

Welcome from Wirral, England.

It's probably best to post a separate thread for questions as not all members read intros.
That said, you've been given some good places to start.

You're in a good place for regional meets/local info:
U.S. California - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Good luck with your fix.
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#16 Old 12-20-2016
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Thank you everyone!

I have 2 questions about the site:

Since this is a intro section where do I post a tread?
also is there a place where I can search by zip code and find Ind. shops near me?

Best regards,
Dan
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#20 Old 12-21-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danslk280 View Post
Hi dedgar,

What switch did you have to jump?
Is that to close the trunk? and what do you mean by making a jumper?

Thanks
There are two micro-switches for the trunk lid. They let the system know if the trunk lid is fully closed or not. One on either side of the trunk behind the lining on the sides.
The micro-switch for the roof locking/unlocking the also in the trunk behind the lining on the right side forward of the trunk closed switch.
The system must know that the trunk lid is closed to either start opening the roof or to start closing the roof. If the system does not have closed trunk lid indications, nothing will happen except you most likely will get a rapid flashing red led in the actuating switch in the center console.
The jumper is just a piece of wire. You disconnect the wiring connector from the micro-switch and stuff the wire in the two wiring holes on the connector. That makes the system think that the trunk lid is fully closed because it thinks the micro-switches are closed.
If you decide to go this route you will figure out what size wire you need when you remove any of the micro-switch electrical connectors and look at the two holes. I just used some speaker wire.
I had to use the jumpers because the switches were out of adjustment and the system didn't know the trunk lid was fully closed. Once I determined that was the problem the fix was easy. Just bend the metal arm up a bit and retest without the jumper and the connector reattached to the switch.
This was after I got the roof to actuate and go through a full cycle with the jumpers in place.
Closed to open and open to closed. That way the hydraulics had pressure holding the lid fully closed.
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