SLK230 stalls in slow traffic and wont restart till engine is cold - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 09-02-2014
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SLK230 stalls in slow traffic and wont restart till engine is cold

Hi all,



This is my first post but I have used this site a lot forinformation on my issue with my 1999 SLK230 which has 100k miles on it. Myissue doesn’t seem to match any single post so I have started a new one andwould appreciate any help and have tried to provide as much background as I canto help others with similar issues or to help with any responses.



Issue – my car will stall when in slow moving traffic orwhen stationary in queuing traffic and once it stalled when travelling at about50mph. When it stalls it will not restart until the engine is cold. It will notcrank, all warning lights are on and I can hear the fan whirring. I turn thekey and nothing happens. I have read reasons ranging from the MAF, Crank &Cam Position Sensor and also the K40 Relay.



I bought the car in February this year and it ran great forabout 2 months. In April after queuing off a motorway junction it suddenly cutout as I tried to pull away from the lights. I pushed it to the side of theroad and waited for recovery which took 1.5 hours. I kept trying to start itduring this time with no joy. When the recovery vehicle arrived they towed meround the corner and couldn’t get it started. They tested all the fuses andlook inside the electrical housing box next to the battery where the K40 relayis located and found no issues. The reconnected the battery and then the carstarted fine. I drove it to a garage who looked at it and found no error codesand no problems with its running. However they found a breather hose from theair oil separator was cut and replaced it(more on that later, I suspect to prevent oily MAF issue)



I noticed in June the car started running rough, misfiringand losing performance so I put it into my local garage and again they couldfind nothing wrong with it. It was lacking power and misfiring under heavieracceleration and was especially rough in the morning when first driven. Afterthe garage couldn’t help I started visiting these forums. Searches led me tobelieve the MAF sensor was at fault so I cleaned this using one of thetutorials on here and the performance improved immensely and was better thanever. This lasted until August when the car started running rough again. Icleaned the MAF and it was back to performing great for about a week. I readthe source of this was oil from the air/oil separator getting into the MAF so Icleaned this and the hoses and replaced the oily air filter. It was then Iremembered about the hose being replaced but I didn’t know which one they hadreplaced. I have since read about putting an oil filter on the hose that goesfrom the A/O separator to the air filter box to stop this oily MAF issue whichI intend to do shortly


In August the car cut out about 10 times during the monthand the performance was terrible. One time it cut out while driving after I hadmanaged to get it restarted. Again the garage couldn’t find any issues and itdidn’t stall when they drove it. I took it for a drive with the mechanic toreplicate the conditions under which it would stall (queuing, slow moving) andagain it behaved itself for a week with them.


The car would seem to stall when it was up to normal runningtemperature and it doesn’t then restart for about 2.5 hours until the enginewas cool. Usually it would then run ok (misfiring under heavier accelerationdue to MAF I suspect) for a little while and then stall again, usually at themost inappropriate times! It also sometimes wouldn’t start after I had drivenfrom work to the supermarket, popped in to get some bits and when I came out 15minutes later it wouldn’t start, no crank, just lights and the fan whirring.


I’m getting to the end of my tether with the car but am alsodetermined to sort the issues. When it runs well there’s no better car. I justdon’t want to throw more money at it than I have to.

Last night I made a bit of a discovery, when it stalled Iunplugged the MAF sensor to see if it would make it restart, but it wouldn’t.However when I re-plugged in the MAF after 10 minutes it started and ran till Igot home. This leads me to feel that the MAF has been at fault the whole time.I am going to put an oil filter on the A/O separator to air filter hose andblock up the hole in the air box and buy and fit a new Bosch MAF.

I’m wondering if anyone has any experience of the MAF beingthe root cause for the issues I have described? Most threads point to the CPS orK40. I have checked the K40 soldering and to the eye it all looks fine andthere are no burn marks as with other posters/pictures. Should I just bite thebullet and do all 3?!

Any help greatly received, thanks!
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#2 Old 09-02-2014
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#4 Old 09-02-2014
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#5 Old 09-02-2014
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#7 Old 09-03-2014
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#8 Old 09-03-2014
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First thing I would do is put a battery disconnect, battery terminal on the battery.
Auto Battery Link Terminal Quick Cut Off Disconnect Master Kill Shut Switch | eBay

Then when the car quits, you can disconnect the battery for a minute without tools. That may save you hours on the side of the road as a power cycle fixes many errors.

Next change the most likely part; MAF sensor would be a good first choice, Then change the second most likely part, etc, etc,

Without a warning code, all you can do is swap parts.

Have they been reading the codes directly from the ECU ??

Last edited by jerryt; 09-03-2014 at 11:57 AM.
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#9 Old 09-03-2014
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#10 Old 09-04-2014
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Thanks for the replied and the advice about quick battery disconnect.

I started with a new maf and this seems to have resolved the issues, no stalls in 3 days now. May take a few hundred miles to be fully confident but so far so good. Great to have my car back and once again enjoying the loud pedal!

I'll update if any further issues but fingers crossed this is it fixed. Clearly my cleaning of the maf was in vein.

Cheers
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#11 Old 09-04-2014
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#12 Old 09-04-2014
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#13 Old 09-08-2014
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Hi again,

Sadly the gremlins seem to have returned....

This time the car cut out on me on a country lane going about 40mph. There was no warning but I noticed I had no throttle/power so I coasted to a safe spot. Only once I had pulled over and stopped did I get any dash warning lights. I have disconnected the battery and the MAF but the car will not restart so looks like I'm stranded for the foreseable.

Does this sound like an issue anyone can identify?

Also I'm conscious I'm in the introduce yourself section, if I should be somewhere else let me know.

Thanks
Chris
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#14 Old 09-08-2014
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Chris, members can answer your question here and also welcome you.

I can make another new thread for you if you wish in the r170 section


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#15 Old 09-09-2014
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Further update.

Car cut again this morning. This time as I was pulling into my work car park which was fortunate. Only things to note this time was that the petrol light had come on as fuel was low and I had just gone over a speed bump as it cut out, not sure if it was linked or helps.

I had also been queuing in traffic on my way in and so the engine was warm. When sitting in traffic the temp gauge creeps up to 100 degrees and when moving it is usually a steady 80 degrees when in moving traffic. Again, not sure if this provides and useful insight?

I've read about the CPS causing stalling issues as the sensor gets too hot - this seems to link in so I might tackle that next.

Not sure if any of the above provides any useful insight but I'm at a bit of a loss with what to do next.

Thanks
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#16 Old 09-09-2014
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My thoughts are Fuel Pump, either low pressure or intermittent operation.

Maybe you can buy a bluetooth OBD2 scanner and download "Torque" to your phone, or laptop. That way you can monitor things like fuel pressure and engine codes.
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#17 Old 09-09-2014
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Thanks for the advice, I'll give that a try.

Seems for IOS devices there's a similar app called DashCommand which looks similar to Torque. If nothing else is looks like an interesting toy but will also give some good information on fuel flow and various other metrics.

From memory I don't recall having and OBD input port but will have another look.

Am thinking of replacing the other usual suspect, the K40 relay. I will update any findings from either of these 2 items.
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#18 Old 09-09-2014
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Hi Chris
Welcome from Ormond Beach Florida
wow, that's a lot of miles. woo hoo for you.
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#19 Old 09-11-2014
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Smile

They have a part called the K40 board. It's located in the emission control box. The soldier cracks on the top left 3 connections. Gives a bunch of funny codes leading to nothing. If you re float those connections might help. There's a you tube video for complete instructions. Stupid simple to do. I did it and I'm a girl. Mercedes Benz SLK 230 K40 Relay Fix - YouTube

Click this link and check it out!
The k40 almost never needs to be replaced, but almost always need to be re soldiered
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#20 Old 09-12-2014
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Thanks for the advice, I re-soldered the board last night. The connections all looked fine but I did it anyway. Its not made a great deal of difference to the feel of the car but maybe time will tell.

So I have now excluded the MAF and hopefully can exclude the K40 for my stalling problems. In fact I haven't stalled in 5 days now and the last time was when I was low on fuel. I'm starting to think perhaps jerryt is on to something and I do have a faulty fuel pump, rather than fuel pump sensor.

The car drives great when its not stalling/cutting out and has full range of speed and performance. However, I have noticed recently that at low speed or when I lift off the throttle and coast it feels like the engine is braking, and the rev's drop to 500rpm when below 30mph. Not sure if this is normal or not? I'm wondering if the stalling is becuase there's an intermittant failure of the fuel pump and the engine braking feel I'm getting is a sign of a failing fuel pump?

I'll keep driving and report back on any further stalling issues. Its due its MOT this month so I may get the garage to check fuel delivery pressure at the same time.
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