Rim Size - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

General Modifications R172 Details that make your car different

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#1 Old 05-08-2017
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Rim Size

What's the largest rim size that can fit on a R172 without rubbing the wheel well or causing problems? I was at a rim shop the other day and they said it can fit 20's but he was also trying to sell me rims so I can't really take his word for it


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#2 Old 05-09-2017
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If you don't want to upset the electronics the circumvence of the tire should remain within certain limits.
18" rear = 35
19" rear = 30
20" rear would mean tires of 25 wall height, so something like 255/25 20. I don't they are readily available nor rideable.


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Brabus fit 20 x 9J at the front and 20 x 9.5J at the rear.

9.0J x 20H2 offset 40 for tyre size: 235/30 R 20
9.5J x 20H2 offset 45 for tyre size: 275/25 R 20

But they also supply a 10mm spacer for the front and a 15mm spacer for the rear so the actual offsets are ET30 front and rear.
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#4 Old 05-10-2017
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Originally Posted by wja96 View Post
Brabus fit 20 x 9J at the front and 20 x 9.5J at the rear.



9.0J x 20H2 offset 40 for tyre size: 235/30 R 20

9.5J x 20H2 offset 45 for tyre size: 275/25 R 20



But they also supply a 10mm spacer for the front and a 15mm spacer for the rear so the actual offsets are ET30 front and rear.


Well I don't want to have to use spacers or have any problems with turning or rubbing the wheel well so does that mean I should just get 19's?


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#5 Old 05-10-2017
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Originally Posted by DColon614 View Post
Well I don't want to have to use spacers or have any problems with turning or rubbing the wheel well so does that mean I should just get 19's?
The spacers just convert existing Brabus wheels to fit in the SLK. Your wheel dealer should be able to recommend the correct offset wheels. Without spacers. And they should be comfortable with building up your wheels and then test-fitting them. If they don't fit or they rub, then it's their problem, not yours.

If you want 20" wheels, why not have them? You will have proper rubber-band tyres and a concrete-hard ride though.
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Originally Posted by wja96 View Post
The spacers just convert existing Brabus wheels to fit in the SLK. Your wheel dealer should be able to recommend the correct offset wheels. Without spacers. And they should be comfortable with building up your wheels and then test-fitting them. If they don't fit or they rub, then it's their problem, not yours.



If you want 20" wheels, why not have them? You will have proper rubber-band tyres and a concrete-hard ride though.


I've heard that it makes the ride bumpy, is it really that big of a difference? I don't want to feel every time I hit a pothole


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DColon614 View Post
I've heard that it makes the ride bumpy, is it really that big of a difference? I don't want to feel every time I hit a pothole


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I absolutely would not upsize more than +1. 19" is the happy medium
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#8 Old 05-10-2017
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I've heard that it makes the ride bumpy, is it really that big of a difference? I don't want to feel every time I hit a pothole
The SLK has very little suspension travel as standard so a lot of the very small bumps are absorbed by the sidewall of the tyres. If you go from an 18" wheel to a 20" wheel then you are taking 1" out of the sidewall height. And on an SLK that's a massive reduction. You will definitely feel it.
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Guess I really don't understand the attraction of wagon wheels, these are not railway engines (once upon a time you could tell how fast a steam engine was by the diameter of the drive wheels but a big wheel engine could not pull as much).

True, I was exploring 19s for the back but that was because I have some. Will probably stay with 17s, 255x45R17 is 26" diameter or about 1/2" rolling radius difference, doubt that the computer will notice

BTW before looking at different wheels it is good to understand the difference between camber, caster, and kingpin inclination. This affects the proper offset of the wheel. Spacers won't affect the rear much but can really upset the steering in front.


ps SLK seats are also relatively hard. It all adds up.


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#10 Old 05-10-2017
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Imho hanging all this weight to the suspension will make the struts work overtime to handle the load.
Ride will be hard and premature wear of the suspension components will be a sure bet.
Plus the disk brakes will look very small behind these rims.
Having said that 19 is the most you can do without messing the factory standards a lot.
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#11 Old 05-10-2017
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It is all about balance. The SLK is a small car and not really suitable for bagging. 17 or 18 looks about right. The 170-clone with a 6 speed has about the same power (320), a switch on the TC, and is about 250 lbs lighter so my autocross/track day car. The SLK is more of a personal daily driver. The problem with having a single car (think early 1970 when I returned from SEA was the last time I just had one) is it becomes a compromise and does not do anything well.


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#12 Old 05-10-2017
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Originally Posted by Charlie350 View Post
Imho hanging all this weight to the suspension will make the struts work overtime to handle the load.
Ride will be hard and premature wear of the suspension components will be a sure bet.
Plus the disk brakes will look very small behind these rims.
Having said that 19 is the most you can do without messing the factory standards a lot.
What extra weight on the suspension?

The ride will be hard, but that's the choice you make for the look.

Big wheels make cars look better. Every "design" sketch ever drawn has massive, impossible, wheels because cars with full arches look fabulous.

Bottom line, proper tuners sell 20" wheels to people who want them. Brabus would not sell 20" wheels if they rubbed or couldn't handle the maximum speed of the car.
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Right now my car has the following:

225/45 r17 front
245/40 zr17 back

I love the way it rides, I'm just not crazy about the size or the design of the wheels so I considered going larger to fill up the wheel well but now I think I'm just going to buy some 18's and keep it simple.
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#14 Old 05-10-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wja96 View Post

What extra weight on the suspension?

The ride will be hard, but that's the choice you make for the look.

Big wheels make cars look better. Every "design" sketch ever drawn has massive, impossible, wheels because cars with full arches look fabulous.
For the second part I tend to agree up to the point that proportional analogy isnt affected.

For your question, pardon my english but i will try to explain:
unsprung weight and rotational mass are critical on a cars performance both in terms of handling and acceleration.
Wheels turn and as any object when turning the weight through centrifugal force is multiplied and called rotational weight.
So the heavier a wheel is (bigger) more rotational weight is produced.
This rotational weight is again multiplied the bigger the wheel is as physics produce more force at a bigger distance. The furthest from the center the rotational weigh is, the more it is multiplied.
Rule of thumb is that the more mass and radius the less angular velocity and acceleration.
The equivalent of losing Hp from the engine.
Also brakes have a hard time controlling this weight as if the vehicle was heavier (sprung weight).
Increasing your diameter by 4 inches and adding 5 lbs weight to the wheel equals (roughly) adding 50 to 60 lbs weight to the car per wheel when it is accelerating or braking.
Also as the bigger rims are heavier and bigger tyres with low profile have to be heavier also (mass and reinforcement) the shock absorbers have to deal with more weight than they are designed to.
Imagine hitting a bump.
The wheel goes up, the absorber is compressed and it has to push the wheel back to the ground for traction.
Hitting a bump with unsprung weight of 10 lbs requires some miliseconds for the schock absorber to get compressed and kick back the wheel to the ground but 30lbs make it harder.
As if you are lifting weights at the gym.
You can do 10 lifts of 20 kilos in 30 seconds but it will take you longer to lift 100 kilos and if you even manage to do it in the same time (superhero mode on) your arms will be tired and your articulation bones will be damaged as your muscles will rely on them (bones) to assist with the weight.
I hope what I say makes some sense.
A search on unprung weight and rotational mass may give you more information and probably in better english.
Cheers!
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Getting a little silly but in the end it is your car. The wheelwell in the rear of an SLK can easily handle a 26" tire, a 27" may be marginal. How you use that budget is up to you. Will observe that a 255x35x19 costs $50-$100 more than a 255x45x17 (both 26") and the 45 will have a softer ride. Since for me a run to south Florida is a bit over 3 hours each way, my DDs are designed for comfort (and find a 1" sheepskin seat cover is both softer and cooler than the stock leather. Also a lot cheaper to replace).


Grew up in the "form follows function" school and modern disk brakes eliminate then need for 18" and 19" wheels of the '40s and '50s needed to clear massive finned drum brakes.


Now tire technology is a whole lot better than even in 1970 when low profile tires started to appear (cantilever tires were first seen on a Pontiac 2+2 test car in 1965) but you need some sidewall to be able to plant the tires properly (laws of friction went away the first time someone turned a 10 second quarter, the tire/surface relationship is really fractal.


Of course drifting is popular these days and you don't want max grip for that ( I find the idea of a drift race hilarious) so maybe that is the answer.


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#16 Old 05-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie350 View Post
For the second part I tend to agree up to the point that proportional analogy isnt affected.

For your question, pardon my english but i will try to explain:
unsprung weight and rotational mass are critical on a cars performance both in terms of handling and acceleration.
Wheels turn and as any object when turning the weight through centrifugal force is multiplied and called rotational weight.
So the heavier a wheel is (bigger) more rotational weight is produced.
This rotational weight is again multiplied the bigger the wheel is as physics produce more force at a bigger distance. The furthest from the center the rotational weigh is, the more it is multiplied.
Rule of thumb is that the more mass and radius the less angular velocity and acceleration.
The equivalent of losing Hp from the engine.
Also brakes have a hard time controlling this weight as if the vehicle was heavier (sprung weight).
Increasing your diameter by 4 inches and adding 5 lbs weight to the wheel equals (roughly) adding 50 to 60 lbs weight to the car per wheel when it is accelerating or braking.
Also as the bigger rims are heavier and bigger tyres with low profile have to be heavier also (mass and reinforcement) the shock absorbers have to deal with more weight than they are designed to.
Imagine hitting a bump.
The wheel goes up, the absorber is compressed and it has to push the wheel back to the ground for traction.
Hitting a bump with unsprung weight of 10 lbs requires some miliseconds for the schock absorber to get compressed and kick back the wheel to the ground but 30lbs make it harder.
As if you are lifting weights at the gym.
You can do 10 lifts of 20 kilos in 30 seconds but it will take you longer to lift 100 kilos and if you even manage to do it in the same time (superhero mode on) your arms will be tired and your articulation bones will be damaged as your muscles will rely on them (bones) to assist with the weight.
I hope what I say makes some sense.
A search on unprung weight and rotational mass may give you more information and probably in better english.
Cheers!
I race cars and I'm well aware of the benefits of 'light' wheels but on a road car it's largely irrelevant. And even if it wasn't you're starting off with the assumption that the OP is replacing his standard 17" wheels (weight 11.7kg each without tyres) with something heavier. If he swaps them out for, say, a set of BBS FI 20" wheels then he's saving 1.7kg per wheel and even allowing for a bigger tyre the unsprung weight and rotational mass are less. So again, I would ask, what extra weight?

And even if there was extra weight, the overwhelming weight of the car in comparison simply cancels it out. You're basically arguing that the OP should never carry his shopping home in the car because the extra 5 or 6kg in the trunk will put excessive wear on the rear suspension.

The standard wheels are so heavy I suspect he could go up quite a bit in size and not notice if he buys reasonable decent aftermarket wheels (BBS performance line or better, HRE or Sparco).
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Originally Posted by wja96 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie350 View Post
For the second part I tend to agree up to the point that proportional analogy isnt affected.

For your question, pardon my english but i will try to explain:
unsprung weight and rotational mass are critical on a cars performance both in terms of handling and acceleration.
Wheels turn and as any object when turning the weight through centrifugal force is multiplied and called rotational weight.
So the heavier a wheel is (bigger) more rotational weight is produced.
This rotational weight is again multiplied the bigger the wheel is as physics produce more force at a bigger distance. The furthest from the center the rotational weigh is, the more it is multiplied.
Rule of thumb is that the more mass and radius the less angular velocity and acceleration.
The equivalent of losing Hp from the engine.
Also brakes have a hard time controlling this weight as if the vehicle was heavier (sprung weight).
Increasing your diameter by 4 inches and adding 5 lbs weight to the wheel equals (roughly) adding 50 to 60 lbs weight to the car per wheel when it is accelerating or braking.
Also as the bigger rims are heavier and bigger tyres with low profile have to be heavier also (mass and reinforcement) the shock absorbers have to deal with more weight than they are designed to.
Imagine hitting a bump.
The wheel goes up, the absorber is compressed and it has to push the wheel back to the ground for traction.
Hitting a bump with unsprung weight of 10 lbs requires some miliseconds for the schock absorber to get compressed and kick back the wheel to the ground but 30lbs make it harder.
As if you are lifting weights at the gym.
You can do 10 lifts of 20 kilos in 30 seconds but it will take you longer to lift 100 kilos and if you even manage to do it in the same time (superhero mode on) your arms will be tired and your articulation bones will be damaged as your muscles will rely on them (bones) to assist with the weight.
I hope what I say makes some sense.
A search on unprung weight and rotational mass may give you more information and probably in better english.
Cheers!
I race cars and I'm well aware of the benefits of 'light' wheels but on a road car it's largely irrelevant. And even if it wasn't you're starting off with the assumption that the OP is replacing his standard 17" wheels (weight 11.7kg each without tyres) with something heavier. If he swaps them out for, say, a set of BBS FI 20" wheels then he's saving 1.7kg per wheel and even allowing for a bigger tyre the unsprung weight and rotational mass are less. So again, I would ask, what extra weight?

And even if there was extra weight, the overwhelming weight of the car in comparison simply cancels it out. You're basically arguing that the OP should never carry his shopping home in the car because the extra 5 or 6kg in the trunk will put excessive wear on the rear suspension.

The standard wheels are so heavy I suspect he could go up quite a bit in size and not notice if he buys reasonable decent aftermarket wheels (BBS performance line or better, HRE or Sparco).
Youre right and I totally agree with you.
What I said was trouble I had by a mistake I made in the past to hang big heavy replica wheels because "bigger is better" and I totally messed up with my cars handling as they were not only heavy but way off allowed standard.
Just sharing what I was told back then.
Thanks for the time to explain.
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While talking about rim size is the SLK350 wheel unusual even for Mercs ? Are A Lot of factory 17s on CL but the offset seem way off. Mine are 30/36mm and I am seeing 40 and 50 mm offsets. To me that seems too far off. Does anyone know if or what other car lines fit ? C ? S?


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Offsets are all over the place. The smaller MBs such as C, CLK and SLK vary but generally around 30-37, larger cars such as CL you mention are into the 40 - 48, and the dady cars such as the ML can have 50+ I think the largest offset is 60 something on an M Class (but might be wrong..)
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Thank you, guess I just need to go look. Half the time when I call to ask about wheels for sale (are many Merc wheels around here) and ask "what is the offset" I get a long silence.


Was really surprised my 170 clone front wheels (18s) did not clear the 171 calipers. By over a half inch. (took a while to realize why I could not start the bolts. Fortunately I always start them by hand).


Oh well have a show Saturday so need to get the Judge ready. Can only work between midnight and nine am this time of the year anyway.


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