2013 SLK 55 AMG Oil Filter Purchase - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 06-12-2013
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2013 SLK 55 AMG Oil Filter Purchase

I think I've done a fair job of searching forum posts, but unable to locate any place to purchase an oil filter for my 2013 SLK 55 AMG!

Any suggestions?

Also, in the "DIY" or "General" threads, I didn't see any specific info on changing oil on the new SLK 55's.

Any help on where/what to purchase, and how to for this specific model would certainly be appreciated!

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#2 Old 06-13-2013
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You can always get them through the parts department of the local Dealer, also keep the receipt to prove you used OEM parts in case there is a warranty dispute.

Most MBCA chapters can arrange some sort of discount for the filters, or your dealer can set something up for you. The filter is such a cheap part it's not really worth ordering online if you get any sort of discount at the dealer.
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#3 Old 06-13-2013
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I changed the oil on my 2013 '55' back in February because I was taking it to a 'Track Day' and wanted to run it with fresh oil. I couldn't find the oil filter via the internet either, so went to the dealer and bought two. The Part number for the filter is 'A 278 180.00.09' (cost here in Houston was $26.00 + tax, each). I also purchased 11 qts of Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula from Advanced Auto Parts and via the internet got a 'large' Mighty Vac to suck the oil out. I did quite a bit of research and the Mobil 1 seemed to be the oil of choice for our cars. I asked the dealer what type of oil they use and the guy told me that unless I specify Mobil 1 (which will be an upcharge), they use some Valvoline formula. The spec for the car is 10 qts, but I actually had to add a bit more in order to get it up to max level. I also probably shouldn't bring up that I used the 'Vacuum' method here because there are some folks who are pretty passionate that you should only change the oil on a 55 via the drain method (it has to do with the fact that the 55 has a 'split' oil pan and the vacuum method might not get every drop out - however, because I needed more than 10 qts, I'm not at all convinced that I could have left much in either of the pans!). Whichever method you choose, this was one of the easiest oil changes I've ever done. The oil filter housing is right on the top-right hand side (driver's side) in the front of the engine bay - it requires a 22mm socket (? I think - if you have a decent metric socket set, you should have the right size) to remove the filter cover from the housing. I had to disconnect the driver's side air intake so I could more easily get the filter assembly out. You might need to pull on the filter a bit to get it out as it has a lip at its base that fits very snugly into the bottom of the housing (you'll be able to see it on the new filter and know what I'm talking about). Installation of the filter is absolutely fool proof - the single o-ring installs on the screw 'top' and the filter body can only be inserted one way (it 'snaps' into place so you need to make sure you feel a small 'pop' when you put it in). Go easy on torquing back the filter top, too - I can't recall the spec, but it's not that tight and you don't want to mess up the filter housing (it's some kind of plastic). Also, I should have mentioned this before - you'll want to get the engine up to operating temp before using the vacuum (if you use a vacuum) - if draining, you may want to rethink the warm up because it will be very hot and tight under the car. If you vacuum, unless you can find a very large capacity vacuum pump, you will need to drain it at least once before you can get all of the oil out - that was a bit of a pain, but not too bad. Anyway, you shouldn't be doing this for a while, should you? But you can keep this for future reference.
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Last edited by slk55_kt; 09-18-2013 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Typo in Oil Weight!
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#4 Old 06-13-2013
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Thanks so much for the information guys, exactly what I needed!
Admittedly, my though process around changing oil has not kept up with modern technology. It’s very difficult for me to conceive that a brand new engine’s oil/filter doesn’t need changed for 10K miles. Just seems to me the fact that there is an extended break in period for this engine (1,000 miles, less than 4,500 rpm, no “kickdown” etc.) would indicate there is more wear than usual occurring in the engine. I actually purchased the maintenance package, but wanted to do an initial oil change at around the the 3,000 mile mark, then the regularly scheduled one at 10k.
I think I’m open to a new perspective if any of you have info that indicates that is not a good strategy… I’m learning a lot from you folks as this is my first MB, and there are many things to learn!

Thank-you again for the input!
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#5 Old 06-13-2013
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I always change the oil ahead of schedule in my cars, but MB doesn't include the oil changes for free anymore, so there's no reason they should schedule the oil change later than needed. I WONDER if perhaps they use a slightly different weight oil in the engine to change the wear pattern during the break-in period? For my SLK 55 I have followed the recommended oil change schedule almost religiously. (and I use the drain method).

Always always use Mobil 1 if you want to retain the warranty, and alway always double check how much is filled even if you had the oil change done at the dealer. Several members have found different oils being used, or even incorrect volumes filled at the dealership.


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#6 Old 06-13-2013
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I remember reading this post in another thread:

https://www.slkworld.com/579921-post15.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tashi View Post
I've used the high rev method ever since I read about it, on 4 of my sports bikes and one other car.

I have compared the dyno result of one of my bikes with another of the same model from a friend, and my bike makes about 4 hp more, despite having a different profile tire (I had a nail and fitted the wrong tire), which meant the dyno reading was showing a lower hp than it should. So in actual fact, the hp figures should be more than 4 hp. And my friend confessed that he was running the engine at low revs during the break-in period.

So I was a bit concerned when my MB dealer told me that the new cars ship with synthetics. I wrote in and this was their response.

We have of course investigated your enquiry. Your SLK 350 will be delivered with synthetic oil. The vehicle will receive a special (non-retail) engine oil in our factory. This oil keeps possible fine abrasions circulating and prevents sedimentation during the run-in period.
With the first oil change, the oil will be flushed out, including all possible abrasions and replaced by a "ready-for-use" (retail) oil.


So I am guessing the oil either comes with polishing beads or the metal shavings from the cylinder walls are re-used to wear down further the peaks. In any case, maybe not that good an idea to flush it out too soon.
I know this was in relation to the 350 - does it have any relevance to the 55?

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#7 Old 06-13-2013
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Randombloke - I remember reading that post from 'Tashi', but of course it was AFTER I'd already changed my oil. Not sure if that would have kept me from changing my oil (at 6500 miles), anyway, but it certainly would have been taken into consideration. The key I see in the quote is this one - 'prevents sedimentation during the run-in period'. That implies to me that most of the particulates and other 'junk' are generated during the first 1000 miles (run-in period) and then just held in suspension (if not filtered out). Having said that, I've always seen my oil level right at the 'full' line - and have never had to add oil - not in the first 6500 miles before I changed it nor since I changed it 2500 miles ago. Thanks for bringing this up - it's definitely worth consideration by any new owners.
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#8 Old 06-13-2013
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Having just done some digging on the AMG private lounge and reading what the people were saying there, I'm now leaning towards changing the oil in mine early rather than waiting until the service.
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#9 Old 06-13-2013
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I'm almost to my A service in about 1200 miles. Still running the oil they filled her with at Affalterbach. I have had several "Add 1.5 quarts of oil at next refueling" messages in the last few month, but they all went away after service flashed the ECU with some new firmware that fixed that bug--which it clearly was as there was no oil leaking anywhere. Phew.

I wonder what A service is going to cost...

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#10 Old 07-02-2013
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Just a quick follow-up that I got my oil/filter changed today at 1,400 miles.
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#11 Old 07-02-2013
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randombloke;
We are driving our new cars at about the same rate! We have about 1,300 miles on ours now. I've just recently been enjoying the "trips" above 4,500 RPM's!!

Because of the mechanical locking differential on mine, it requires an oil change at 2,000 miles. I thought I'd go ahead and change the engine oil and filter at that time.

Good hearing from you, appreciate the updates!
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#12 Old 07-02-2013
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makes sense to get both done at the same time. My dealer is 2 hours drive away from me and today I had to drive straight past them for something else, so I called them this morning and they could fit me in.

I hope you're enjoying your car as much as I am with mine
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#13 Old 09-16-2013
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Performed the initial oil change in the 55 AMG today, and it went exactly as stated by previous posters. I used the "mighty vac", and I too had to add just over 10 quarts of Mobil1 10w40 to get the oil to the maximum mark.

The oil appeared relatively clean, and no metal specks in the used filter.

As others have said, a very quick and easy oil change.

The only thing I think I'd do a bit differently, is perhaps not bring the oil all the way up to operating temperature. The oil pumped out very quickly, but the temperature slightly distorted the plastic tube that went down into the dip stick.

I appreciate the advice, made the job go very smoothly!

Regards
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#14 Old 09-16-2013
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Just for reference:
Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html

Mobile 1 Product Guide

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

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#15 Old 09-17-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMG-UFO View Post
Just for reference:
Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html

Mobile 1 Product Guide

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
I must say, I read through this information more than a couple of times.... before I drained all the oil (again) and replaced it with oil that had a MB certification.

Thanks for the info
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