The PSE on my recently acquired '98 SLK has suffered water damage.
The protective foam it sat in was damp - symptoms were interior light constantly on (so have it switched to the constantly off position) and the central locking not always unlocking passenger door / boot.
Today I removed it hopeful I could give it a clean and get it working again. Sadly there was corrosion in the white 18 pin connector socket. One of the pins had become detached (rusted off) and two more are wobbly. The board itself didn't seem too bad compared to some pictured on the internet.
I will post some pictures up but in the first instance are the rusted off pins something that could be repaired? anyone know of a place who repairs this kind of thing?
Assuming a repair is not possible or might be futile I will be looking for a replacement.
Mine is 1708000148 (06) and I have seen the following list of alternatives -
Done a google search and discovered another SLK owner had removed the white A37 connector from the board and hard-wired some connections to it instead. Apparently only 5 of the 18 pins are used.
Well after cleaning and drying the PSE I plugged it back into the car and it's no worse than before despite being 3 pins short.
Central Locking may actually work better (too early to confirm for certain).
In other news and in an attempt to pass on some useful information earlier cars with '210' PSE's have different cables/connectors than cars with '170' PSE's.
The 1996 SLK I'm breaking has one fitted - 2108000648 - a 2005 replacement by Mercedes no less (I have the receipt). If anyone needs one it's in mint condition.
Not sure if it's much help because of your location, but the PSE from a crossfire should also work. I used one of a different number on my 98 and it worked just fine. I'm under the impression that PSE's from all r170s and Crossfires are the same. I'll look up my original number and the new number later today for reference. I found mine for $200 on eBay.
An update on this - got a replacement PSE via ebay for £120 - alas it arrived with some green corrosion amongst the pins in the white connector socket AND two missing pins grrr
Got a full refund and allowed to keep it - have since opened it up and it actually appears in really good condition - no sign of water damage or anything.
Does anyone know of somewhere that can de-solder the white connector and solder a new one in?
I have another white connector with all its pins intact on another board (alarm or something) I'm happy to sacrifice.
Hi Clive, the higher part numbers supersede the lower part numbers. They were introduced in different years, and maybe they had more functionality. You can safely order the highest number, I did.
You know, you can always just remove the big white plug, and wire in your own connector to the board. I forget how many are used, but most of those pins aren't. Maybe 6 of them?
I got the same story as mightycpa when I enquired at a dealer, the replacement for my '98 230 which had part number ending in 148 was the '848 last issued part.
But if I could get a new one for £200 I would, dealers ask over $2000 here and almost all the USA suppliers will not ship internationally. I got a good one for the '230 from a wrecker for $100 but it is still an old one.
https://www.bba-reman.com/gb/catalogue/16/
BBA Reman is one of the worlds leading automotive Remanufacturers. ABS ECU modules, throttle bodies & instrument cluster repair Etc.The company was founded in 1998.Lifetime warranty offered.
My pins were a bit corroded too. I dipped them in a product called CLR. Let them sit in there an it pretty much dissolves. Then brush off terminals with toothbrush. Don't know how bad yours are though.
I have some useful information to pass on which I hope may be useful to others . . .
I now know it is only 5 of the 18 pins that are used and I now know which pins they are - see picture below - the five highlighted in pink are the ones that are used.
The numbering is my own system.
I discovered the above when I realised I could take the connector apart to clean it - the black 'tab' slides down and off allowing the connector block to slide out. I got good results from a quick clean of mine.
Sadly I don't know what each pin controls but considering on my car the PSE is missing pins 3,5 and 6 yet the central locking still works correctly* I can only assume pins 10 and 11 are connected to the central locking. My interior light is stuck permanently on so assume that is connected to pins 3,5 and 6.
* from reading another post by bazzle it is normal for the car to lock itself once you first start moving. I have found this anti-hijack (??) feature annoying as if I get out and go to open the boot or passenger door I find them locked - have to remember to press the unlock button on the dash to open passenger door and boot.
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