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Help Please! SLK32amg steering problem

2K views 23 replies 7 participants last post by  mike865 
#1 ·
Hello all you proper car drivers,


I have a 2002 SLK32AMG and its developed a problem so far no one can solve. MB dealer, MB specialist, Other Garage, 4 wheel alignment company. I am throwing money at the car to no effect. The garages who are fitting the parts have no idea to the cause of fault but say its safe to drive.
The problem,
On right hand lock only, setting off from start front left tyre feels to be pulling sideways instead of rolling forward. On the move that corner tramlines on certain road conditions and feels very skitty. I have a brand new set of Pirelli Rosso Corsa's on and the front left tyre is wearing badly. Jobs done so far,
All suspension bushes and wishbones have been tested with metal bars and pronounce ok. The following parts all renewed
Lower ball joint / steering damper / hub carrier assembly/ front top wishbone.


Draglink removed from car, checked out and pronounced ok, wheel bearing ok,
Car has always been maintained regardless of cost.
It failed 4 wheel alignment so i had the new hub carrier assembly fitted and now the problem is worse!
Can any one help please?


Mike.
 
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#2 ·
When they did a geometry check, do you know if they measured the 'ackerman linkage'?? They should have.

This 'linkage' as it is called is the bit that ensures that the outer radius wheel - ie your front left wheel on a right hand turn - turns into a corner less than the inner radius wheel. I am not saying it is, but it could be, and sounds to me, that your left wheel is not turning enough.
 
#3 ·
Thank you Hal
I have just called the company who did the 4 wheel alignment and he said there equipment will only check what he makers specify and it only measures wheel alignment angles.
I would be interested to know who can do this, MB Dealer?


Thanks again


Mike
 
#6 ·
Most (I would have thought all…) geometry checking devices would be able to check for the ackerman linkage - it is tested by having the front wheels of the car on turnplates that are marked with degrees either side of centre. The idea being that when the steering is turned through, say, a 20 degree angle on the inner, the outer should turn less - maybe 17 degrees or so depending on the length of the car. The turning figures are specified by the manufacturers for each car.

I really urge you to have this done - especially as you have been renewing draglinks and the like. It may not be the culprit, but it is one more crossed off the list.

I really do question a garage/technical centre, especially dealing in high end marques that does not know what a car steering is all about. It is the difference of using mechanics and fitters I guess.
 
#7 ·
Forget about checking Ackerman geometry. The correct geometry to properly turn the wheels is part of the suspension/steering hardware. The alignment guys won't have a clue what you're talking about. All an alignment will do is check camber, caster, and toe. I'm not sure, but I believe a 4-wheel alignment will also check to see if the rear wheels are in alignment with the front.

Depending upon road conditions, it isn't unusual for tires to trammel. The irregularities in the road try to pull them from a straight path. You might notice that the crown in the road will do the same thing.

You said it failed a 4-wheel alignment. What was the problem? Try this have another car follow your car down the road and pay attention to how it tracks. If anything is out of wack, you'll easily see it.

I would look for things like a bent wheel, locating link, tie-rod, spindle, or? You are going to have to find an old time mechanic who knows how to analyze suspension problems. A typical alignment shop won't be able to help you.
 
#9 ·
Good gracious, you have bounced back into life have you?

I think the OP would notice a bent wheel and no, the way to test/check geometry is not to follow a car and see if anything is out of whack. You put the car on a jig. One with turntables.

And please, if it is at all possible in your small mind, please try not to be so rude. We all know you are the expert on everything, but just try to work with people instead of against them.
 
#8 ·
Find a completely flat road as such and car should drive fairly straight and a slight pull to the left if .
Make sure your tyre pressures are all correct front and back .
No spacers between alloys . :surprise:

Original alloys .
Not aftermarket .
No play in wheel bearings / steering / suspension etc

And even an old 4 wheel laser tracking sytem should track your car correct .
No rear coil springs broken ??
 
#11 ·
Enough gentlemen.
 
#18 ·
Hello again folks
just catching up on the thread and your advice.
I have had the car for 10 years and had some real fun driving it and I can use it.
I have owned many cars and never had a problem that leaves garages scratching there heads. I am not willing though to surrender car for MB fitters to "look" at for many hours at £75+.
I am not technical and will call on my main dealer today to ask about ackerman adjustment.
Thanks again for your input
Mike.
 
#19 ·
Mike - The ackerman is not adjustable other than replacing an incorrect part. Briefly, if you are not technical, the ackerman steering is designed into the car so that the outer wheel, as I think I said earlier, turns slightly less into a corner allowing the car to turn the corner smoothly.

When you say that your problem only happens on one lock, this is a classic symptom that the ackerman link geometry can be out. Now, you mention a new draglink and hub carrier were fitted. A typical fault upsetting the steering angles is the fitment of an incorrect part - I do not know the cars that well, but could there have been a change in design and you have a part that was designated for an earlier/later model? Another common one is a bent steering link. I think someone should examine everything down there very carefully as it will be a simple one and easy to spot!

Keep us posted on anything as it is interesting to track all this!
 
#20 ·
Hello Hal
All new parts fitted to my car are original Mercedes benz parts . I did order a new draglink to be fitted and when the existing part was removed and the new one offered up a bracket welded to the part was 180 degrees out facing the wrong way to connect. The mechanic checked out existing draglink and said all parts were ok so it was refitted.
I understand what you say about the ackerman linkage but will still have a run out to see my main dealer.


cheers


mike.
 
#21 ·
Hello again readers
today I have driven round and visited MB dealer and another 4 wheel alignment company who are willing to "look" at my car.
I have learned now the hard way that having a "look" comes at a premium price and of course is subject to added value tax
(Vat).
As mentioned I am not a technical man but I am a Yorkshire man and do think logically.
it does seem to me that the part some people know as a draglink must be at fault.
As mentioned previously in this story I
did source one but it did not fit my car although it was advertised that it should so had to be returned.
I am willing to take another punt on this so my next question is
where do I buy the right part? my specialist is sourcing right now the MB part.
Any ideas folks?

Thanks again

Mike.
 
#22 ·
Mike - I should have responded earlier to your last post.

You must have someone knowledgeable have a look at that draglink. I do not like the bit about a bracket welded to it and reckon this might be the centre of the issue.

I also attach a write up on steering which is very readable. OK, it is all to do with model car building, but the principles are exactly the same. I urge you to read this before you go back to the place that carried out the diagnostics, or indeed, if you choose to go elsewhere. From the write up you will see how important the draglink is to be correctly adjusted.

Something else I was thinking - you say you had a new hub carrier fitted? By this I assume you mean a stub axle, yes? Why? Was it bent perhaps? Is the other one ok? I ask because other than the steering link, the castor and some extend the camber play a part in the steering geometry. A bent stub axle will have you all over the place.

Finally as to parts, for such as steering, you must ensure replacements are sourced from MB using YOUR vin. There could be subtle changes throughout a model life so it is important you fit the spec'd ones. So maybe first call is a new draglink.

Hope it all helps, but do read this so you can talk to these people on an even footing!

RcTek - Radio Controlled Model Car Handling - The Ackerman Steering Principle
 
#23 ·
Hello Hall
Thank you for your input and advice and attachment.
stub axle sounds about right, no it wasn't bent but I was told it could be that. As mentioned I have been chucking money at the car to try and solve the problem.
I got under the car whilst it was on lift for the draglink replacement and the bracket is indeed 180 degrees out.
Company I purchased it from were adamant it was right part. Did refund though.
All subsequent pictures of part sourcing show.the bracket 180 degrees out to my car.
So I wonder if I get the part do I have to cut off and reweld the bracket?
Sounds a bit dodgy
I will go to main dealer tomorrow and ask to see microfiche drawing of its replacement.

Mike.
 
#24 ·
Today I decided to send my car to the place who does my mot work explaining my cars problem etc. I took the car in to see if they could find the fault.
After 6 hours I got a call, can you please come down and try the car.
I did a road test with their suspension specialist and now have a car that drives perfectly.
He explained to me that the problem was the suspension geometry was very misaligned, he corrected it.
I feel very fortunate that I was lucky enough to have my problem sorted by this company. Feel let down by all others who have cost me much money this year fitting parts that were not required.
End of story
Happy days
Thanks to all for your help and advice.
Mike.
 
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