SuzaFan

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Guys...
It seems I have a serious problem...
My SLK still doesn't want to start...
Some of you remember that I wrote a post few weeks ago that my SLK didn's want to start...electricity was ok, radio on, roof could go up and down...but it didn't want to ignite...it started next day, like everything was fine...
I changed the battery then...just to be sure...
It was ok till few days ago...then again, the same problem...
I called Mercedes Mobilo, they came with a kind of laptop, connected my car...everything seemed fine to them...no errors...but my car didn't want to ignite...
Then, after 15 mins, it started...then again it didn't want. Then it strted again.
They told me to get a car to the service, that they will open my starter, clean it and that it is probably a starter that has problems.
They did it, took the starter, opened it (cleaned, greased it), they changed some electrical thing that is in front of the starter...
I took my car home today...everything was fine...
Till now...It didn't want to start again!!!!!
I started it by pushing it and shifting to second gear (I have 6m manual)
I was driving for half an hour. Now it starts again normally...
WHAT IS GOING ON??? Anyone had simiral problems??

Dang

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So I gather when you say "it won't start", it doesn't even try to crank the engine?

They are on the right track with the starter, but I'm suprised they just didn't change it.

It could be electrical as well, but I would have thought (hoped?) that would throw a code. The fact you can push start it means the immoboliser and all that must be working, and it's literally a starting issue.

Good luck with your problem!

Dang

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DansSlk

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Like i said last time don't make a habit of push starting it, the ECU hates it.

Its not an MB approved procedure to strip a starter so i would insist they replace it to rule it out (Agree with Dang 100% on that, it's very odd), I'm sure you told me before and i have forgotten but when you turn they key what does it do?

You can normally classify it under the following -
No click - Electrical/Electronic fault
Click - Starter
Click and voltage drop - Starter or low/damaged battery.

Before you start your car why don't you enable the voltmeter then you can watch what happens whenever you start the car, remember if its showing below 12 volts it is best to charge it before trying to start the car and if it is under 11.7 the computer wont let you start the engine.

It should throw a code but i would also have them check the crank position sensor is working normally.

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SuzaFan

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So, when I turn the key, it doesn't crank the engine - that is the answer to Dang's question.
And Dans, now the answer to your comment...
I can hear the click when I turn the key...(the battery is 100% ok, I bought a new one after I had that problem first time, and the voltmeter is showing good voltage...)
And here's why they opened the starter, not changed it - my car is no longer under the warranty so they (and me too) don't want to change the parts (and I have to pay that) and just keep trying (and paying) till we find a problem...
The crank position sensor you say...
My mother has ML 420 CDI and she was called to the service action - replacing the crank position sensor. Maybe it is some weak link on Mercedes?
I will call the service tomorrow and tell them to check it...(first I have to get my car there somehow
But what suprises me most is that it happens only sometimes, it often starts normally...for example yesterday, I started it by pushing the car, I was driving for an hour, I came back home and then it started just fine...
Or maybe I am expecting too much - I want my car to start EVERYTIME and I am not satisfied with that but I want it to start from the first try... hahahah

DansSlk

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A click but no start or motion of the starter means either a faulty battery, high resistance in the transmission line or a faulty starter.

The dealer will have a battery load tester they can use and they can also check the integrity and resistance of the wiring (if a connector has come loose for example then when the engine is cold it might not make contact but when it warms up the connection could be OK), does sound like you will need a new starter mind you.

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alexthegreat

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yo yo tell them to give you a new one thats unacceptable yo.

SuzaFan

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I'd have to pay for a new one...don't have the waranty anymore...
And I don't want to pay for a new starter if it is not the starter that is faulty...

Cruzer 8

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Starter are brush type motors with commutator bars which transfer the electric current through them to stare the motor if the engine does turn over and start at times and at other you just hear the click it could be that the starter came to rest on a bad connection between the brush's and the commutator --- we used to test this by putting the car in gear(manual trans only) and then rock the car back and forth about a foot this my or may not work but this sounds like a bad starter motor they can bench test the starter for proper operation and electrical worthiness the solenoid does two things it provides the high voltage to the starter and also engages the starter gear to the fly wheel this could also cause the click if it gets hung up
and some times the solenoid can have dirty or pitied contacts and cause what you describe --- if the battery passes a carbon load test -- then I would replace the starter and the solenoid--- I'm old school and could be wrong but I don't believe they have changed the basic of the starter motor operation --- all this could be costly but at least your car would once again start all the time.

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