Cockpit Cover - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R171 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 280, SLK 300, SLK 350, SLK 55 AMG

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#1 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Cockpit Cover

Hello All,

I was wondering if anyone has experience with cockpit covers like the one here: Accessories for the Mercedes Benz SLK 2005-2011 R171

Sadly my roof seems to want to work 50% of the time...and I was thinking this cover might be better than nothing if I get caught somewhere without a roof.

Any thoughts?
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#2 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Just that those cover the windscreen as well. I would like one that covers just the interior and has a zipper down the middle so can drive with just the driver's seat exposed.


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$75 for something that looks like someone just threw a tarp over it, just get a cheap tarp for emergency. I feel you and this is a good idea, surprised someone hasn't made one to custom fit cockpit for just such a case. It would be nice to have an emergency soft top that attaches to the windshield frame and boot jam or something for vario-roof failure.
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I had a tonneau in my MG a long time ago... it was nice to have because the roof was manual. That's not what this item is though - what would keep it from blowing off in the wind?

Their marketing could've done a little better with the picture ...
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Well the roof in my MGA was an erector set and at 60 mph the rain went over your head. OTOH I also had a Jag XK150s and a couple of E-Types (before I took the cure) that also had tonneau covers and much easier tops to flip up. Didn't have one for the 124 Spyder and missed it. Could even use one for the Reatta (click on .sig) - it has a manual roof but I can drop/erect faster than the Merc (but do have to leave the seat & is cloth.).


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Thanks for your responses, I went ahead and ordered it. I figure I can give a brief review once it comes in, with better pictures than the seller provides.
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What's wrong with your top that causes it to fail 1/2 the time?
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What's wrong with your top that causes it to fail 1/2 the time?
I wish I knew, the shop checked it out but couldn't duplicate the problem at the time. They greased some of the joints and apparently updated the software. It seems it may be getting slightly worse... it used to sometimes not go back up...now it sometimes doesn't go down either. The trunk always opens... but the next step sometimes doesn't happen. If I wait a half hour to an hour... it will likely work when I try again.
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Originally Posted by burnsy1 View Post
I wish I knew, the shop checked it out but couldn't duplicate the problem at the time. They greased some of the joints and apparently updated the software. It seems it may be getting slightly worse... it used to sometimes not go back up...now it sometimes doesn't go down either. The trunk always opens... but the next step sometimes doesn't happen. If I wait a half hour to an hour... it will likely work when I try again.
If your hydraulics are working then must be electrical fault. A quick read with a scanner should pop you some codes to work with, fault should be showing somewhere. Sounds like a bad limit switch connection.
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#10 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnsy1 View Post
I wish I knew, the shop checked it out but couldn't duplicate the problem at the time. They greased some of the joints and apparently updated the software. It seems it may be getting slightly worse... it used to sometimes not go back up...now it sometimes doesn't go down either. The trunk always opens... but the next step sometimes doesn't happen. If I wait a half hour to an hour... it will likely work when I try again.
R171 Vario roof troubleshooting tree


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#11 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Robrowdy View Post
If your hydraulics are working then must be electrical fault. A quick read with a scanner should pop you some codes to work with, fault should be showing somewhere. Sounds like a bad limit switch connection.
Thanks, the previous seller did have it checked out by the dealership before I purchased it. they say
"performed short test and found codes for right rotary tumbler locked switch in vario roof under headliner to be sticking fault occurred one time/ updated software/ lubricated all lock and latch locations with MB special sliding compound and performed operations test of vario roof 5 more times."

Initially the roof only seemed to fail when trying to put it back up, but now it sometimes fails when trying to bring it down. They couldn't duplicate the problem... though it seems to be happening 50% of the time when either trying to open or close the roof now. I've read over a lot of the threads on this site, I'm not all that mechanically inclined but I'm trying to slowly absorb it all. I did buy the recommended lubes and intend to go over the seals\joints and etc... though it looks like the dealership may have already done that.
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What that sounds like is a resistive connector or a failing electronic component that overheats/becomes resistive after completing part of the operation, then can complete after it cools off. GM power window actuators do that.


Could also be a thermal limiter that is failing.

I'd locate all of the components and connectors, run to fail, then checkout with as IR gun (preferable) or fingers to see if anything is hot. A "cool can" to spray on components is another troubleshooting method. Just a thought.
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Padgett got a handle on things for sure Could be a thermal thing going on (pump protected). You really should hook up scanner again to see what the latest DTC is. Mechanic shop lubricating things will not solve intermittent electrical problem. They really should have replaced the sticking switch (cheap). Since you had DTC earlier revealing limit switch malfunction I would seriously have a look at it (good scanners do not lie). Could be not actuating properly (mechanical-could be switch arm bent) or could just be failing micro-switch or even semi-break in wire causing an open circuit at certain position.
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I'm not clear on which switch I should be looking at, from documents I've looked at... there is a switch in the roof, and then a switch closer to where the visor is above the windshield.

Regarding a scanner, is there one I can purchase? Or do I depend on the shop to run the scan?
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Originally Posted by burnsy1 View Post
I'm not clear on which switch I should be looking at, from documents I've looked at... there is a switch in the roof, and then a switch closer to where the visor is above the windshield.

Regarding a scanner, is there one I can purchase? Or do I depend on the shop to run the scan?
Oh there are about five limit switches to be exact. You can spend about $150-$200 on one or pay the stealer repair man $100 to use his I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MD802-M...4DXCBAYGAQTB6K Curious as to whether you are getting any dash messages when this happens, like "vario-roof closed" "close vario-roof completely" or something? S69/3 is the switch they were referring to as far as the DTC they found.
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There have been no dash error messages. The common trait whether it fails opening or closing, is that the trunk will open but the next step will not happen. If I keep holding the switch down, you can here the motor\pump continuing to work... but with no action to speak of. Yesterday it failed to close when returning from my lunch break, I went out an hour later and it closed fine. But then when I left to go home two hours later, it wouldn't open. Then, after I was home for a couple hours, it did open. Today on the other hand... it didn't fail at all.

Thanks for the suggestion on the code reader I'll take a look.
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Originally Posted by burnsy1 View Post
There have been no dash error messages. The common trait whether it fails opening or closing, is that the trunk will open but the next step will not happen. If I keep holding the switch down, you can here the motor\pump continuing to work... but with no action to speak of. Yesterday it failed to close when returning from my lunch break, I went out an hour later and it closed fine. But then when I left to go home two hours later, it wouldn't open. Then, after I was home for a couple hours, it did open. Today on the other hand... it didn't fail at all.

Thanks for the suggestion on the code reader I'll take a look.
Hmmm, no error messages, motor running but no action. It seems to me that if there was an existing electrical malfunction intermittent or not that the pump would not run at all. It is protected thermally and if sequence is interrupted (purpose of limit switches) the pump wont run either. If you say you can hear the pump running then I don't see it to be electrical in nature, its possible your hydraulic fluid level is low. Does it open and close smoothly when it does work or is it slow and dragging? Might want to have a look at it first, if its low top it off and check system for leaks (most likely leaking) then see how it fairs. If you still have problems then maybe drop $ on scanner (pays for itself first use) and see if it still has DTC's. One last final issue could be worn hydraulic cylinders, which are rebuildable. Your description of it getting worse, first opening and now closing too, leads me to believe its hydraulic issues now.
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In guessing - the switch attached to the boot lid cylinder needs adjustment. I say that because it's happening both when raising and lowering the roof, and failing as the lid reaches it's apogee. Sure way to confirm is to make measurements while it's not working.
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Hmmm, no error messages, motor running but no action. It seems to me that if there was an existing electrical malfunction intermittent or not that the pump would not run at all. It is protected thermally and if sequence is interrupted (purpose of limit switches) the pump wont run either. If you say you can hear the pump running then I don't see it to be electrical in nature, its possible your hydraulic fluid level is low. Does it open and close smoothly when it does work or is it slow and dragging? Might want to have a look at it first, if its low top it off and check system for leaks (most likely leaking) then see how it fairs. If you still have problems then maybe drop $ on scanner (pays for itself first use) and see if it still has DTC's. One last final issue could be worn hydraulic cylinders, which are rebuildable. Your description of it getting worse, first opening and now closing too, leads me to believe its hydraulic issues now.
When it does work, it seems to work smoothly so far as I can tell. When the roof won't close... the trunk will initially open... but then the plastic deck or whatever it's called, doesn't lift up... and the pump continues to run. I am then able to reverse the operation and the trunk will close.

When it doesn't open, the trunk will open... but the roof won't begin to pull away from the front. I can then also reverse the operation and the trunk will close.

I'm looking for pictures\documentation that show how to get to the pump in order to check the level. I found one document, but the instructions are kind of poor and the pictures are small black and white. If anyone know's of another thread with some step by step pics that would be awesome. Perhaps my search skills are a bit rusty.
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When it does work, it seems to work smoothly so far as I can tell. When the roof won't close... the trunk will initially open... but then the plastic deck or whatever it's called, doesn't lift up... and the pump continues to run. I am then able to reverse the operation and the trunk will close.

When it doesn't open, the trunk will open... but the roof won't begin to pull away from the front. I can then also reverse the operation and the trunk will close.

I'm looking for pictures\documentation that show how to get to the pump in order to check the level. I found one document, but the instructions are kind of poor and the pictures are small black and white. If anyone know's of another thread with some step by step pics that would be awesome. Perhaps my search skills are a bit rusty.
I found this, 3rd post has pics and docs: R171 Vario Roof Delays

Also this courtesy of the Col: S69/3 Vario roof locked limit switch termination

Should get you going in right direction After reading all this plus the fact that you did have DTC for limit switch I am highly suspicious of the switch now but would still check fluid level first because it could be problem too (be good to inspect system for leaks any way)
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