Any idea what a new thermostat and sensor should cost ? - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R171 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 280, SLK 300, SLK 350, SLK 55 AMG

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#1 Old 03-20-2017
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Any idea what a new thermostat and sensor should cost ?

Including install from an independant Mercedes shop ? As of today getting P0128 error. Engine water temp seems ok at 88 to 90 degrees C), (w/ outside temp 68 degrees F ) coolant level is good. I suppose it would be interesting to watch how long it takes for the engine coolant to get to 88 C after a cold start in the morning since that might indicate whether this is stuck thermostat or defective sensor. Presume either way one ends up paying the same to fix it.
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#2 Old 03-21-2017
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I had the same issue, thermostat and housing (non OEM) 101, 1.5 hours labour to fit.
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#3 Old 03-21-2017
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Dealer list price for the t-stat here in the US is $170.
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#4 Old 03-21-2017
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MBpartscenter.com has the thermostat for 123.42

COOLING SYSTEM for 2011 Mercedes-Benz SLK300

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#5 Old 03-21-2017
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Today I timed the temp rise from first start of the day....took about 5 minutes to go from cold to 80 degrees C, then another 2 minutes to 85 C... this at 45 mph, outside temp of 88 degrees. Seems "normal" to me....don't understand why it threw the error code....
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#6 Old 03-21-2017
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That is definitely in the normal range. As for the error code. It's a Mercedes !!!

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#7 Old 03-22-2017
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Originally Posted by WoZ53 View Post
That is definitely in the normal range. As for the error code. It's a Mercedes !!!
Took it to the independent German (mostly Mercedes) car place yesterday and guy at the desk (i.e. I don't know how much he really knows) says the Mercedes computer takes a number of things into consideration to throw this code..including the fuel ! That peaked my interest as I bought a tank of suspect fuel recently (only occurred to me later it might be suspect due to "middle of nowhere" nature of the station). Anyhoo, they take it in and then proclaim, yes, needs new thermostat, $425 to do it all. So then I think maybe I should try new tank of fuel first and leave.

(having said that, the car ran perfectly on that suspect fuel...no knocks or other issues)

To my surprise the check engine light is off when I leave the repair shop...guess they reset it. Anyhoo, put known "busy station" fuel in and will wait to see if the light comes back on. The error code just makes no sense considering it runs perfect, comes up to proper coolant temp in time and stays at 88 C thereafter, so wondering if indeed, fuel quality could effect the computer calculations somehow....we'll see.

========

As an aside....do these cars not have an oil pressure gauge ?
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#8 Old 03-22-2017
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Originally Posted by As an aside....do these cars [I
not[/I] have an oil pressure gauge ?
I believe the 55's have something but my 350 certainly doesn't. No oil pressure gauge, no idiot light, no warning via the dash display. So much for "The Best Or Nothing". We got nothing!
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#9 Old 03-22-2017
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Originally Posted by carguy View Post
I believe the 55's have something but my 350 certainly doesn't. No oil pressure gauge, no idiot light, no warning via the dash display. So much for "The Best Or Nothing". We got nothing!
My 2005 350 provides a message when the oil is low. See page 360 of the operating manual.
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#10 Old 03-22-2017
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From the owners manual
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P3224421.jpg (70.0 KB, 13 views)

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#11 Old 03-23-2017
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I stand corrected. With that said, a red display symbol like the 55 has would be much more noticeable than a line of text.
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#12 Old 03-24-2017
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Originally Posted by WoZ53 View Post
MBpartscenter.com has the thermostat for 123.42

COOLING SYSTEM for 2011 Mercedes-Benz SLK300
fcpeuro.com has it for $85.49 including the gasket and free shipping ! But I still don't understand for the life of me why I need one. The coolant temp goes from stone cold at first startup of the day, to 80 C in 5 minutes and then after another 2 or 3 minutes settles in at 88 C from there on out....seems like that is exactly how it should be.....but even after clearing the P0128 alarm, it came back the next day....I don't get it.

Every DIY video regarding these things shows a situation where the thermo is stuck open or has a cracked seal and won't get above 40 C, which is not my situation at all.

Is there more than one coolant temp sensor on the M272 engine ? Wondering if perhaps one of the sensors is sending an 80 C reading to the computer when the coolant isn't really that warm ??

Where would be a good place to aim a laser heat gauge to see what the coolant temp really is ? The hose right at the thermo ?

===============

(regarding my previous post about suspect fuel, now that I have studied this issue more I think the guy was FOS about fuel effecting this error code..nothing to do with it !)
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#13 Old 03-24-2017
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Originally Posted by Temple Hall View Post
fcpeuro.com has it for $85.49 including the gasket and free shipping ! But I still don't understand for the life of me why I need one. The coolant temp goes from stone cold at first startup of the day, to 80 C in 5 minutes and then after another 2 or 3 minutes settles in at 88 C from there on out....seems like that is exactly how it should be.....but even after clearing the P0128 alarm, it came back the next day....I don't get it.

Every DIY video regarding these things shows a situation where the thermo is stuck open or has a cracked seal and won't get above 40 C, which is not my situation at all.

Is there more than one coolant temp sensor on the M272 engine ? Wondering if perhaps one of the sensors is sending an 80 C reading to the computer when the coolant isn't really that warm ??

Where would be a good place to aim a laser heat gauge to see what the coolant temp really is ? The hose right at the thermo ?

===============

(regarding my previous post about suspect fuel, now that I have studied this issue more I think the guy was FOS about fuel effecting this error code..nothing to do with it !)
The coolant temp sensor is known as component B11/4 and it is located at the back of the left side cylinder head (see link for picture). The part number is 000 905 61 02 with an online dealer cost of about $11 plus shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper elsewhere. You may need to get the CEL reset after replacement. Let us know if replacing the sensor stops the CEL from coming on. Good luck.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
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#14 Old 03-24-2017
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You can also check if the thermostat is working by turning on the heater.

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#15 Old 03-24-2017
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Originally Posted by mchild View Post
The coolant temp sensor is known as component B11/4 and it is located at the back of the left side cylinder head (see link for picture). The part number is 000 905 61 02 with an online dealer cost of about $11 plus shipping. You may be able to find it cheaper elsewhere. You may need to get the CEL reset after replacement. Let us know if replacing the sensor stops the CEL from coming on. Good luck.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
Ok...but then what is the sensor mounted on the thermostat housing all about ?
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#16 Old 03-24-2017
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Originally Posted by Temple Hall View Post
Ok...but then what is the sensor mounted on the thermostat housing all about ?
That isn't a sensor but rather a connection for a heating element that is part of the t'stat. See the link for the functionality of the t'stat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
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#17 Old 03-25-2017
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That isn't a sensor but rather a connection for a heating element that is part of the t'stat. See the link for the functionality of the t'stat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1W...ew?usp=sharing
Wow..that is interesting. But if it turns out the thermostat is bad, isn't it the strangest thing that the temp sensor just happens to transmit to the temp gauge exactly normal reading ?

And further to that, even stranger that the computer is nonetheless picking up on the fact that the coolant temp is either too slow to come up to normal temp or too cold ? I mean, where the heck is the computer getting this info from, if not from the same sensor that is feeding (presumably wrong but normal) readings to the dash gauge ??

My B.I.L., who owns a Volvo repair shop thinks there might be a fuel temp send unit hidden away somewhere that is the actual culprit. Is there ?

It's almost like there are two separate problems....maybe the thermostat isn't right sure enough but there must be a temp send unit somewhere that isn't right either ! But then another send unit that is right !
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#18 Old 03-25-2017
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Originally Posted by Temple Hall View Post
Wow..that is interesting. But if it turns out the thermostat is bad, isn't it the strangest thing that the temp sensor just happens to transmit to the temp gauge exactly normal reading ?

And further to that, even stranger that the computer is nonetheless picking up on the fact that the coolant temp is either too slow to come up to normal temp or too cold ? I mean, where the heck is the computer getting this info from, if not from the same sensor that is feeding (presumably wrong but normal) readings to the dash gauge ??

My B.I.L., who owns a Volvo repair shop thinks there might be a fuel temp send unit hidden away somewhere that is the actual culprit. Is there ?

It's almost like there are two separate problems....maybe the thermostat isn't right sure enough but there must be a temp send unit somewhere that isn't right either ! But then another send unit that is right !
Nothing in the shop manual about testing other sensors. The test for the t'stat is to check the resistance at the heating element connector. At 20*C it should 15.2 (+/-1.5). If it isn't that resistance then the t'stat should be replaced. It is somewhat difficult to get to the connector with the t'stat fully installed so you may have to remove the t'stat to test it.

If it were my car, I would first clear the code and then see how long it takes for it to come back. Sometimes the code doesn't come back and you have dodged the bullet.
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#19 Old 03-25-2017
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Nothing in the shop manual about testing other sensors. The test for the t'stat is to check the resistance at the heating element connector. At 20*C it should 15.2 (+/-1.5). If it isn't that resistance then the t'stat should be replaced. It is somewhat difficult to get to the connector with the t'stat fully installed so you may have to remove the t'stat to test it.

If it were my car, I would first clear the code and then see how long it takes for it to come back. Sometimes the code doesn't come back and you have dodged the bullet.
Thanks, I'll check that resistance...but know what you mean, the plug is very difficult to get to. Still I just don't get it...checked thermo temp with infrared gauge today and it reads 85 C, just as it should and got there just as fast as it should.

Code was cleared and came back the next day. Today I cleared it myself (bought a Bosch OBD2 reader), so will see how long it stays cleared this time.
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#20 Old 03-26-2017
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Just in case this is useful for a future search: I'm getting a new thermostat and radiator hose on Thursday and it's 399 for parts and labour at an MB dealership.
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