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DIY: Service E Cabin/Combination Air Filter Replacement

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178K views 184 replies 90 participants last post by  jbanks15  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Photobucket pics stink

see these you tube videos





Well my Service E was overdue since I reset the reminder at 26,000 miles. I have been
procrastinating to getting this done, i'm actually glad I didn't do it earlier since the Air
Filter was only about 20% dirty, could have gone another 10,000 miles easy.

edit JBanks15: added doc here also for R171/R172 Thanks Piet

DIY: Service E Cabin Air Filter Replacement

Nevertheless, I decided to do a write-up since there wasn't a good one yet...

Step1:
Tools Needed, Torx Screwdriver T-20.
Supplies: Mann Air Combination Filter (purchased from autowarehouseparts.com)
edit: Filter cost around $50, and free shipping
here's a link to the filter direct... its a genuine mb replacement part...
http://b.tinyurl.com/4k9zmf
don't worry about the pic they display on their site, they send you the correct one...

Step2:
The instructions supplied (pictures only) with the filter are pretty good, but the following
ones should help even more..

Step3:
Best way to have enough room to dive in there, is get the top down and open the passenger
door all the way.
Image


Step4:
Remove the three torx screws using your nifty torx-20 screwdriver.
Image


Step5:
Pull back the padding in the footwell like in the picture below:
Image


Step6:
There is tab holding the left part of the plastic piece, use a flat-head screwdriver to pop

it out.
Image


Step7:
Disconnect the light connector, and the cigarette lighter connection (this is a weird pull
down clip type plug, took some futzing to get it out)
The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the cigarette lighter cable, it looked like you needed to pull it sideways, when all the time, you just tug straight down

Step8:
Once the plastic piece is out, you will see a large white box, the filter is inside this
box. There are two yellow clips that need to be slided to the left/right. The box then pops
out from below and the folded-filter will fall right out.
Image


Pic of the old filter, as you can see its pretty clean after 30,000 miles:
Image


Step9:
Make sure you remember the way the filter was (directionally).
Image


Step10:
That's the base of the filter box, take some time to clean it as well since you have access

it to it right now...
Image


Step11:
Once you put the new filter in and put the under-part of the white box back on, you have to
be very careful to make sure it fits snugly. I read in other member's posts that they had to
remove and replace 2-3 times to ensure a snug fit with no air leaks. I had the exact same
thing happen to me!! You have to turn the A/C on, and then check for leaks with your hand
placed at several sides of the box.

Look at the diagram below to see the points to check.
Image


Step12: Thats it, once you make sure the lower box is snugly fit, you're done!

Total Time : 1 hour , Supplies Cost: $50.00
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thank you for the pix and narration, slk350ncls63. :tu: This post deserves to be "stickied" IMHO.
 
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#4 ·
I believe he said $50 (last line on the 1st post, it's easily missed).
 
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#8 ·
Just got mine changed

My filter was over 2 years old and the car was asking for a D service. Filter cost at an MB dealer $167.00 . Was also asking plugs to be changed, I don't think so buddy. I found out during a short visit to the U.S.A. Advance Auto Parts sell the combination fllter. Thanx for the instructions
 
#10 ·
Question: do you have to close and engage the lower cover to the cabin air filter before checking for leaks? or can you check for leaks as depicted in the photo (cover not fully closed).
 
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#11 ·
To check for leaks, the cover has to be fully closed and the latches set. You need to set the blower on high and try all the ventilation positions (dash, windshield, floor) while feeling all around the filter casing for any air coming out. As stated above it usually takes a 2 -3 trys to get the casing cover seated correctly.
 
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#113 ·
I've just done mine, and discovered exactly that: The cover was leaking before I replaced the old filter. (Probably from the factory) There was a small black dust line on the 'difficult to get at clip end' - I turned on the fan and put my hand around the casing before I took the filter out, and sure enough air was blowing (Slightly) from that joint. Even after replacing the filter and having 4 "back breaking" attempts at stopping the leak, it still blew slightly, so I gave up! The casing is only plastic and I would imagine that distortion is easily set-in after all the hot/cold blowing after a few miles. Even with the slight blow everything seems okay - I'll just check the dust line periodically...:wink:
 
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#14 ·
Looks like the filter is inserted as a V.

Dan, thank you for the tip about using a foam weatherstrip. This is readily available at the local hardware store (in different widths and thickness) with an adhesive on one side.
 
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G
#15 ·
Thats the stuff Eddy.

Best way to get that filter in (because the grooves in the removable tray are not enough to hold it stable) is to get some mid strength double sided sticky tape and stick the filter to the roof of the airbox then simply insert the tray below it.
 
#18 ·
I tried to 'Thank' One of Dan's replies and it does not work for me. The 'Thanks' icon just disappears. Anyone else have that problem today?
 
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G
#22 ·
Yeah but in fairness it's not like the AC will fail because the cover isn't correctly seated, it wouldn't even decrease it's efficiency.

Not that i think it's OK to leave it blowing air from a QC point of view.
 
#24 ·
Am I the only SLK owner that thinks the cabin air filter is just a gimick so M/B can charge more for service? When I drive with the top down or with the windows down with the A/C or heat on, does filtered air really matter? When it's time to replace my filter, I'm planning on removing it and not putting in a new one. $$$ saved.
 
#26 ·
If you see the junk the filter collects you might change your mind.
 
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#32 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just got finished with this mod... well almost.

Several months ago, I purchased online what I believed was the right filter. I then attempted the installation and realized it was the wrong filter. I now have the right filter on order. That said, I think I should add a few notes.

First, this DIY is well written. It only took me about 15 minutes for the entire process. Most of the time was fidgeting with the cigarette wiring. PITA. I attached some pics so that it may help another member. All I can say is that I still haven't figured out a simple, fast way to unclip/reclip the connection. Aside from that, this DIY is an easy process saved me a lot of money. My car required service D which includes services 1,3, and 5. I asked the dealership to not perform service 5 which is the combi filter replacement. Without that done, service D cost a total of $204. For the heck of it, I asked the dealership's parts department the cost of the filter. $112! + installation. In total, I wouldn't have been surprised if the D service cost over $400. Well, not for me.

Anyways, thanks for the DIY and I hope the pics help.





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[EDIT note. unable to resolve link-Myk]









Image
 
#36 ·
Most of the time was fidgeting with the cigarette wiring. PITA.
I found a simple and fast way to remove the plug from the 12V accessory outlet. Take a flat head screwdriver, push it between the plug and socket and simply twist it to push the connector out of the plug. 5 seconds and your done!
 

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